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Thank your sons for their service to this country, and welcome to the forum!

Welcome to the forums!

Final result. I used polishing compound and eliminated the lines. The clearcoat cracked slightly around that edge (mainly because I was painting outdoors and it rained before the clearcoat fully cured ... go figure) but it came out good enough that I couldn't get the imperfections to show up on...

Yes. This method works on all painted panels.

Nope, no load resistors needed there either. Cruise control still functions (I think only GM vehicles have this issue anyway).

If the dealer stated that the plugs are the same, then the only difference should be that the defrost-only mirror will use 2 out of the 4 pins, while the defrost+signal mirror will use all 4 pins. What is important, is making sure that you have 4 wires going into this connection, and not just two.

So I had a few scratches on my 2014 Corolla S, as well as some stone chips that were driving me nuts. I found a pretty good method for using touch-up paint and having it come out well. This is what I did. 1. If the paint is peeling at the chip (likely) or the scratch, very quickly go over...

Plug wire resistance increases greatly with length, that is why #1 is low and it increases as you go to #4 (this is assuming the distributor is at the front of the engine, of course). Did you remove a ground while doing all the work that you may have forgotten to bolt back up?

I would replace the mechanical pump. My '82 Mustang GT sat in a garage for a year and I blew up the engine with the exact same symptoms you have (hard starting). Turns out, the diaphragm ripped and was pouring gas into my oil. Once I got the engine going I was tweaking with the carburetor...

Change it out. Reason is, pistons are elliptical when cold, and become round when fully warmed up. Running a cooling system configuration that keep the engine too cold won't let the pistons become fully round, increasing engine blow-by.

As Kevin said ... are you using a torque wrench when installing these or are you winging it?

That's weird ... I'd take that latch assembly out and go to a dealer and compare it to a new one. Maybe something is bent or a pin is missing.

Try jiggling the steering wheel as you start the car.

Are you burning oil by any chance?

That's all carbon fouling ... seems like #4 is severely burning oil. Try synthetic and engine flush as Scott suggested, see if it helps. If it doesn't, then the damage has already been done and the engine needs to be rebuilt with updated pistons.

I'm seeing that '86 - '91 Celica are the only ones with the 4 x 100mm bolt pattern that your '99 Corolla has. So you'd have to rob the rear brakes and the pressure distribution block from those year Celicas.

superbrightled.com will give you the proper bulb for what you need. The LED part numbers are similar to the bulb in some cases, and use the bulbs cousin in other cases. Example: 168, 172, 194 bulbs all map to a 194 LED.

I'd spend the money and get a new master cylinder. Sounds like the one you got from the junkyard has sat for a while and probably started to collect rust in the system. And yeah, with brake fluid, mark the date that you opened the bottle on the cap. If it is more than a year old, chuck it and...

If you have throttle on the engine just before you shift, that's normal. If you want to verify a slipping clutch, best method is to start the car in neutral, go into first, hold the brake hard, then let out the clutch. If the car takes more than a second to stall, the clutch is on its last...

^second this.