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Good post!

Unless you have a 2014 U.S. bound Corolla ... then the driver side is a blank instead of a dome

There are two round domes. Driver side is auto headlights sensor, passenger side is cabin air temperature sensor.

Now that I think about it, if he has a 90s+ Corolla, chances are the clutch pedal safety switch was bypassed for a remote starter.

Good to hear!

You have to eliminate alll other factors to troubleshoot a faulty PCM.

I have a sensor on top of the dashboard but I suppose, being close to the vent, that it could be a temperature for the floor air outlet.

I think even with your Corolla, if your foot is not on the brake pedal, the car won't start, even if you are in N or P. I know the 2014 is like that.

Fishy, good video. I think his car is older though. Even on a stickshift, newer cars have a clutch interlock that won't engage the starter unless the clutch is fully depressed. My '82 GT didn't have the clutch pedal switch though.

You only live once. I'm at 29.2 mpg for this tank!

And yes, I mean have them fix it. My car idles around 800-900

It isn't related to air conditioning because it does it whether it is on or off.

Not to mention he mixed up where his tail lights are supposed to go.

If the car runs good, start the engine and check voltage across the battery. Verify that you have around 14.2 V. If that checks out, as John said, take it to a car parts store (they will do a load test on it, that tells you if something is wrong internally with the battery). If that checks...

Yes, the engine would need to be running to check for voltage at the connector, but to check the coil itself, you'd check for resistance on the terminals at the ignition coil (engine off).

My car doesn't do that and under 500 rpm is not normal. Make them do a warranty on it.

My friend had an '84 Toyota pick-up with a Ford 302 crammed in it. We had to wad into a mudhole and fish for his front driveshaft when a u-joint blew on it while mudding >.<

And you can unplug the coil connector and accomplish the same task without having to completely remove it.

Get a multimeter, and I really do not recommend unplugging any electronics while the engine is running, including ignition system components. If you really can't get a multimeter, then shut the engine down before disconnecting anything. You shouldn't need the engine running while messing with...

I'm seeing 0.044"