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That isn't it. That one is for making special sensors (or customizing already existing ones, as I have done so that my throttle position would report 0 - 100% like it should).

Found it. Click on "Test Results" Then wait for the scan to complete (might take a minute or two) and scroll down and look for these sensors You want the misfire count for last/current driving, not the last 10 average.

Son of a ... I know I saw it in Torque somewhere...

Lemme start my car and get a procedure for you. Gimme a minute

If you do, access it, reset the misfire count, then start the car. You will see Cylinder #3 misfiring ... but if you start getting misfires on #2 as well, then that will strongly point to the ignition coil. Misfires can happen without triggering a code. Not sure what the threshold misfire rate...

I use Torque as well! Do you know how to access the misfire count?

Oh, and if you attempt to do this on your own, get a multimeter. You can also check the voltage of the battery with the engine running while a friend throttles to 2500 RPM. Voltage should be 13.8 - 14.4 with all accessories off. Anything outside of that shows issues with the alternator (since...

Fan motors kick on when the temperature gets high enough anytime the vehicle has the ignition on, regardless if the engine is running or not. My girlfriend's brother managed to destroy an 8-month old battery because he drove the car with a faulty alternator and charged it out of the car every...

Had to do that with my '96 Mustang GT. Failed HC emissions at the 25 mph test, replaced the spark plugs that only had 16,000 miles on them so they were fresh, and it just barely passed that time. Same deal as you, paid the registration and had 30 days. I'm pretty sure the fuel injectors needed...

Those ones will be dimmer, so I can't say how effective they will be.

Sounds like you are in CA

$9,500 make a nice down payment for another car.

High voltage pulsed DC (seen in ignition systems) can cause radio interference, but this was more of an issue on older cars than it is on modern cars.

The metal reflects the airwaves. What happens, is you get one signal that is timed properly, and the same frequency signal that is a second delayed from the reflection. That is what causes the static. The FM antennae integrated into the rear window isn't as good as the ones that stood up from...

Get the battery tested. Sounds like the plates are severely sulfated. Also, check the terminal connections for corrosion or frayed wiring.

Now THAT, is how you rattlecan proper.

And as Scott said, getting a new engine will be a bigger headache, and the misfire will carry over to the new engine if it is, in fact, the ignition coil.

Shawn, you aren't understanding me. Swap the two coils, and ONLY the two coils. If a cylinder is plugged into the left post of the left module, when you swap the coils, it will stay on the left post of the left module. The coils are the same part number, you can swap them.

It might have something to do with airbag deployment. Only thing I can think of.