Using Lucas Oil Stabilizer and Engine Restore Together
- Thread starter shawn99corolla
- Start date
If they had properly diagnosed that, they would have done a compression test that would have quickly and accurately come to that conclusion. All they did was do the parts replacement routine and took guesses, with your money and your car. Not very, "professional".
Since the misfire is only when the engine is cold, I don't think their guess is correct.
I think it far more likely that it's an ignition coil that has become weak and is about to fail entirely. Ignition coils are not that expensive and a good used one from an automotive junk yard would probably be about $10-$15.
Since the misfire is only when the engine is cold, I don't think their guess is correct.
I think it far more likely that it's an ignition coil that has become weak and is about to fail entirely. Ignition coils are not that expensive and a good used one from an automotive junk yard would probably be about $10-$15.
I agree Scott. I have been very patient with him. I am not a confontational kind of a guy. Maybe it was a little navie on my part trusting an ASE certified "professional" will do the job throughly. I have no idea I would be making half a dozen trip for the same issue only to find out its internal. I am thinking about going to a different guy altogether. The problem with that is how do I choose one? YP, yelp do I go based on their minimal rating online? You have proven yourself to be knowledgeable and I hope it is the coil and not an internal issue. I will see about picking up a used coil as you suggested and see if I can get a buddy to install. My cousin comes to mind he has worked on cars before and I believe he knows quite a bit. Thank you for your continued support.
Last edited:
Shawn, from the pictures it looks like there is only two to three bolts for each ignition coil and they look like they are fairly out in the open, which means they shouldn't be too hard to get to. Swapping those ignition coils and seeing the results, whether the misfire then moves to another cylinder or not, will reveal a lot about the problem the engine is having.
To know if the misfire has switched to another cylinder after swapping the ignition coils, you'll need to scan the car's onboard computer with a code reader like this from Advance Auto Parts for $59.99 - http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ader-cp9125/9020005-P?searchTerm=code+scanner
The code reader will provide you with the "P" trouble codes and tell you which cylinder is misfiring. It's a very handy diagnostic tool to have for any kind of car.
As for finding a different automotive technician, a Toyota dealership is usually a good choice, however usually not the cheapest. But, we do get what we pay for. A Toyota trained automotive technician can properly diagnose the problem you're having with your car, instead of just throwing parts at it, taking guesses with your money, which is almost always a more expensive route to take. Considering the time and frustration you have already gone through, I think a Toyota automotive technician is the best way to go.
I suggest stopping at your local Toyota dealer and speaking to the Service Department. Describe the problem you're having with your car, what has been done so far to try and rectify the misfire and ask them how much it will cost to diagnose the problem. They will give you an hourly diagnostic rate, which is usually about $80-$90 per hour and they should be able to diagnose why the #3 cylinder is misfiring in an hour or less and provide you a written estimate for the repair. It could even be something as simple as a defective spark plug or a spark plug that is not gapped properly. The Toyota dealership has diagnostic equipment that will pinpoint the problem. At your level of automotive knowledge, I think it might be best to have a professional diagnose the problem, but of course you'll have to spend some money to do this. But that's what a professional automotive technician is for and we pretty much all have to have a car. There's no free lunch. Yes, you might be able to find an independent automotive technician for a little bit less money to diagnose the problem with your car, but that's a big maybe as to if they really know what they're doing or not, (as you've unfortunately already experienced and this is not uncommon, so don't feel bad). Diagnostic work differs greatly from repair work. A monkey can turn a wrench and do the parts replacement routine, but it takes a trained, experienced professional to do correct and accurate diagnostic work. A Toyota trained automotive technician has the experience you are looking for and has first hand knowledge about your Toyota. An independent automotive technician does not have this and is generally a jack of all trades but a master of none.
So there you go. One way or the other, you have to do something, because driving the car in that condition will eventually, sooner or later, cause serious engine damage and then you're talking about a replacement engine and that will easily get to $1,000 +++ very quickly, or a replacement vehicle, costing you even more.
It has been my 30+ year automotive experience that with the problem you've described with the engine, yes it could be an internal engine problem, but it's not as likely as a weak ignition coil, a spark plug not correctly gapped, etc. Either way, you must find out what is really going on so you know what action to take or not.
Get this done as quickly as you can so the engine doesn't suffer any more damage, as that will end up costing you big money. :blink: If you have alternate transportation available, a bus, a bicycle, etc., I recommend you do this until the problem with that engine is corrected.
I hope this helps you out. Keep us posted here and we'll do everything we can to help you out. :thumbsup:
To know if the misfire has switched to another cylinder after swapping the ignition coils, you'll need to scan the car's onboard computer with a code reader like this from Advance Auto Parts for $59.99 - http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ader-cp9125/9020005-P?searchTerm=code+scanner
The code reader will provide you with the "P" trouble codes and tell you which cylinder is misfiring. It's a very handy diagnostic tool to have for any kind of car.
As for finding a different automotive technician, a Toyota dealership is usually a good choice, however usually not the cheapest. But, we do get what we pay for. A Toyota trained automotive technician can properly diagnose the problem you're having with your car, instead of just throwing parts at it, taking guesses with your money, which is almost always a more expensive route to take. Considering the time and frustration you have already gone through, I think a Toyota automotive technician is the best way to go.
I suggest stopping at your local Toyota dealer and speaking to the Service Department. Describe the problem you're having with your car, what has been done so far to try and rectify the misfire and ask them how much it will cost to diagnose the problem. They will give you an hourly diagnostic rate, which is usually about $80-$90 per hour and they should be able to diagnose why the #3 cylinder is misfiring in an hour or less and provide you a written estimate for the repair. It could even be something as simple as a defective spark plug or a spark plug that is not gapped properly. The Toyota dealership has diagnostic equipment that will pinpoint the problem. At your level of automotive knowledge, I think it might be best to have a professional diagnose the problem, but of course you'll have to spend some money to do this. But that's what a professional automotive technician is for and we pretty much all have to have a car. There's no free lunch. Yes, you might be able to find an independent automotive technician for a little bit less money to diagnose the problem with your car, but that's a big maybe as to if they really know what they're doing or not, (as you've unfortunately already experienced and this is not uncommon, so don't feel bad). Diagnostic work differs greatly from repair work. A monkey can turn a wrench and do the parts replacement routine, but it takes a trained, experienced professional to do correct and accurate diagnostic work. A Toyota trained automotive technician has the experience you are looking for and has first hand knowledge about your Toyota. An independent automotive technician does not have this and is generally a jack of all trades but a master of none.
So there you go. One way or the other, you have to do something, because driving the car in that condition will eventually, sooner or later, cause serious engine damage and then you're talking about a replacement engine and that will easily get to $1,000 +++ very quickly, or a replacement vehicle, costing you even more.
It has been my 30+ year automotive experience that with the problem you've described with the engine, yes it could be an internal engine problem, but it's not as likely as a weak ignition coil, a spark plug not correctly gapped, etc. Either way, you must find out what is really going on so you know what action to take or not.
Get this done as quickly as you can so the engine doesn't suffer any more damage, as that will end up costing you big money. :blink: If you have alternate transportation available, a bus, a bicycle, etc., I recommend you do this until the problem with that engine is corrected.
I hope this helps you out. Keep us posted here and we'll do everything we can to help you out. :thumbsup:
Last edited:
I'm going to disagree with Scott a little on this one. For newer cars I think the dealer is probably a good choice, but it's been my experience (albeit with only one Toyota dealer in my area) that when it comes to older Toyota vehicles they either don't have the skills to deal with them or maybe just not the desire.
As far as finding a good mechanic, ask around to trusted co-workers or friends. I also like using Yelp.
Swapping the pretty easy, give it a try and you might surprise yourself
Kevin
As far as finding a good mechanic, ask around to trusted co-workers or friends. I also like using Yelp.
Swapping the pretty easy, give it a try and you might surprise yourself
Kevin
I will be asking my cousin this weekend to swap the coils for me. After that if the misfire continues on cylinder #3 then I will consider other options. Scott, I just spoke with a Toyota technician at my local Toyota dealership and their quote is $120.00 per hour. I explained my situation to him and he said he would need to test a list of things. This could add up real fast. As for the scan tool I have an ELM327 V1.5 bluetooth adapter
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-ELM327...agnostic-Interface-Scanner-Tool-/300870978320)
that connects to my ODB2 port and transmits the data via an app called Torque Pro:
(https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en)
Its a great app gives me all kinds of data most of which I dont really understand. Have you used this app before? I will post an update when I have one. Thanks guys, enjoy the rest of your day and Happy Halloween! Its funny I am no longer scared of ghosts and ghouls what scares me now is a check engine light nothing scarier than flashing check engine light! LoL.
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-ELM327...agnostic-Interface-Scanner-Tool-/300870978320)
that connects to my ODB2 port and transmits the data via an app called Torque Pro:
(https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en)
Its a great app gives me all kinds of data most of which I dont really understand. Have you used this app before? I will post an update when I have one. Thanks guys, enjoy the rest of your day and Happy Halloween! Its funny I am no longer scared of ghosts and ghouls what scares me now is a check engine light nothing scarier than flashing check engine light! LoL.
Last edited:
Shawn, I have to say, that labor rate is pretty darned steep. Maybe that is the going rate a dealership charges in your area. In my area it's about $80 - $90 per hour.
If you have equipment that will allow you to diagnose misfires and which cylinder they are occurring in and you can get your cousin to help you swap the ignition coils, that seems like the way to go.
Looking closely at the picture of the engine bay of your car, the ignition coils and the spark plug wires, I spotted something that may be very telling; as we look at that picture and look at the ignition coil on the left of the picture/the one closest to the front of the car and compare it with the one on the right, the one closest to the firewall/windshield, the ignition coils look different. With the ignition coil on the left, it doesn't look as dirty as the one on the right. Also, the left ignition coil doesn't have numbers on it indicating which spark plug wire goes to which ignition coil terminal, whereas the one on the right does. Ignition coils that have the number of which cylinder the terminal goes to tend to be an original equipment part. I have never seen an aftermarket ignition coil that has those identifying cylinder numbers on it.
Now, this would seem to indicate that the left side/front ignition coil has been replaced and is newer than the other one, the right side/rear ignition coil has not been replaced and it's the original equipment ignition coil, with almost 150,000 miles on it. That's a long way for an ignition coil to go. Look closely at the picture and you will see that right side/rear/older ignition coil has the left terminal identified as going to the #3 cylinder, the very cylinder that is having the misfire problem! Very interesting! :thumbsup:
It looks to me like the previous owner of the car had the left side/front ignition coil fail and only replaced that ignition coil, (probably on the advice of an inexperienced automotive technician or the owner themselves), and not the other one too, which should have been done because both ignition coils have the same amount of wear and tear on them and if one fails, well the other one is right behind it. It's kind of like having a pair of shoes and the left shoe gets a hole in it, but instead of replacing the pair of shoes, only one is replaced. Of course, no one would do that, but suddenly when it comes to a vehicle that travels 65 mph down the highway, many people get cheap. Go figure. :thumbdown:
So we seem to have more clues that the #3 cylinder misfire is being caused by an old and weak ignition coil. Now, please, don't yet go and replace it with a new ignition coil, because we aren't absolutely certain that is the problem yet, but the evidence is building. At O'Reilly Auto Parts, they have an ignition coil for your Corolla for $82.99 and I suspect that one is probably a made in China part as it has the lowest price, which is not desirable at all, as made in China parts, (in my humble opinion), tend to be comparatively low quality and break or fail at a much higher rate than parts made in the U.S.A., or at least in North America. Over the years, I have had absolutely miserable results with made in China parts and I refuse to install them in my cars anymore. If it's made in China, I wont buy it. Period. How can you tell if the part is made in China? Check the box it came in and if that doesn't list where it's made, open the box and check the part itself. O'Reilly's also lists a BWD ignition coil for your Corolla and their website says to call for pricing and availability. The link is below. BWD is a very good quality ignition coil and it's worth it to pay more for it. If they don't have the BWD coil in stock, generally auto parts stores can get any part you need overnight and at no extra charge. A high quality ignition coil will help the engine to run smoother, start easier, have more power and better fuel economy.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?eyword=ignition+coil&year=1999&make=Toyota&model=Corolla&vi=5018313
Now, when you swap the ignition coils and if the misfire then moves from cylinder #3 to another cylinder, then we know for a fact that ignition coil is weak and needs to be replaced. To reduce hassle and save time, it's a good idea to have the replacement ignition coil right there with you and ready to go. So purchase it ahead of time. If the coil turns out not to be the problem, you can always return the new coil you purchased and get a refund. Make certain you keep your receipt or they wont give you a refund.
Next, when the ignition coils are swapped right to left and left to right, it is vitally important that the spark plug wires don't get mixed up and plugged into the incorrect terminals on the ignition coils. If this happens, the firing order of the cylinders will be incorrect and the engine might not run at all and if it does, it will run very roughly and can cause serious internal engine damage as the spark plugs will be firing out of time, or out of their correct order.
So when the ignition coils are swapped, this job must be done slowly and methodically with no interruptions from cell phones ringing, a radio playing, etc., and 100% focus must be paid to keeping those spark plug wires correctly routed to the ignition coils. If this is not done, it is very easy to get the spark plug wires plugged into the incorrect ignition coil terminal, the cylinders are now out of time/order and then the aforementioned problems will occur. What you can do to help avoid this problem, (on top of working slowly and methodically), is to use masking tape and a black felt marker pen to label each spark plug wire and each ignition coil terminal they go to before you disconnect them to swap the ignition coils.
By the picture you posted, it looks like the spark plug wires are already labelled/numbered by the manufacturer, so now all you'll need to label is the ignition coil terminals and which spark plug wire goes to which terminal. This is very, very important.
Next, I looked up the firing order for your Corolla's engine and it's supposed to be 1, 3, 4, 2 -
http://www.2carpros.com/questions/toyota-corolla-1999-toyota-corolla-firing-order
Looking at your engine as you open the hood, (as in the above diagram), the cylinders are numbered 1 through 4 left to right. So if you get the order of the spark plug wires mixed up with the correct ignition coil terminal they go to, referring to the above diagram will save your butt. :thumbsup:
Now, the firing order of 1, 3, 4, 2 also supports that the right side/closest to the firewall/front window ignition coil could be weak and is causing the misfire problem.
Looking at the first diagram above and we can see that starting with the firing order of the #1 spark plug, that spark plug wire is routed to the left side/front ignition coil, the one that looks like it has been replaced. Next in the firing order is the #3 spark plug and we can see that spark plug wire is routed to the right side/back ignition coil, the coil that looks like it has never been replaced. So if that coil is weak and doesn't have enough electricity/spark to make the #3 spark plug fire, that spark plug will misfire and the electricity built up inside the coil will not discharge, but stay inside the coil. Next in the firing order is the #4 spark plug and we can see by the first diagram above that returns to the left side/front ignition coil, (again, the one that looks like it has been replaced). Now, the last spark plug in the firing order is #2 and that returns to the right side/back/suspected weak ignition coil again. Since the #3 spark plug didn't fire when it was supposed to and the electricity didn't discharge from the ignition coil, but remained inside the coil and now the #2 spark plug needs to fire, the weak coil will use the electricity that didn't discharge for the #3 spark plug and combined with the spark/electricity it now has to fire the #2 spark plug, that could provide enough electricity to now make the #2 spark plug fire even though the coil could be weak. I think this may be providing even more evidence that the right/back side ignition coil is weak.
Now again, don't just go and replace that coil, because if it turns out that is not the problem, you will not be able to return that brand new coil and get your money back, because the part has been used and the auto parts store will not take it back. Diagnose the problem first by swapping the coils and seeing if the misfire now goes to another cylinder.
Lastly, with the #3 spark plug misfiring, it is very likely fuel fouled and may now misfire because of that, even though a new ignition coil has been installed. When all is said and done, that spark plug should be removed and visually inspected to see if it looks fouled. If it is, it should be replaced with the same brand and number spark plug.
It's possible that this misfiring problem is twofold and not only is the right side/rear ignition coil weak, but it could also be an internal engine problem on that #3 cylinder. This is very unlikely, but it is a possibility. I just wanted to mention that so you're prepared if that is the case.
So there you go Shawn. I hope this helps you out and gets your car up on its feet again. :thumbsup:
Keep me posted.
If you have equipment that will allow you to diagnose misfires and which cylinder they are occurring in and you can get your cousin to help you swap the ignition coils, that seems like the way to go.
Looking closely at the picture of the engine bay of your car, the ignition coils and the spark plug wires, I spotted something that may be very telling; as we look at that picture and look at the ignition coil on the left of the picture/the one closest to the front of the car and compare it with the one on the right, the one closest to the firewall/windshield, the ignition coils look different. With the ignition coil on the left, it doesn't look as dirty as the one on the right. Also, the left ignition coil doesn't have numbers on it indicating which spark plug wire goes to which ignition coil terminal, whereas the one on the right does. Ignition coils that have the number of which cylinder the terminal goes to tend to be an original equipment part. I have never seen an aftermarket ignition coil that has those identifying cylinder numbers on it.
Now, this would seem to indicate that the left side/front ignition coil has been replaced and is newer than the other one, the right side/rear ignition coil has not been replaced and it's the original equipment ignition coil, with almost 150,000 miles on it. That's a long way for an ignition coil to go. Look closely at the picture and you will see that right side/rear/older ignition coil has the left terminal identified as going to the #3 cylinder, the very cylinder that is having the misfire problem! Very interesting! :thumbsup:
It looks to me like the previous owner of the car had the left side/front ignition coil fail and only replaced that ignition coil, (probably on the advice of an inexperienced automotive technician or the owner themselves), and not the other one too, which should have been done because both ignition coils have the same amount of wear and tear on them and if one fails, well the other one is right behind it. It's kind of like having a pair of shoes and the left shoe gets a hole in it, but instead of replacing the pair of shoes, only one is replaced. Of course, no one would do that, but suddenly when it comes to a vehicle that travels 65 mph down the highway, many people get cheap. Go figure. :thumbdown:
So we seem to have more clues that the #3 cylinder misfire is being caused by an old and weak ignition coil. Now, please, don't yet go and replace it with a new ignition coil, because we aren't absolutely certain that is the problem yet, but the evidence is building. At O'Reilly Auto Parts, they have an ignition coil for your Corolla for $82.99 and I suspect that one is probably a made in China part as it has the lowest price, which is not desirable at all, as made in China parts, (in my humble opinion), tend to be comparatively low quality and break or fail at a much higher rate than parts made in the U.S.A., or at least in North America. Over the years, I have had absolutely miserable results with made in China parts and I refuse to install them in my cars anymore. If it's made in China, I wont buy it. Period. How can you tell if the part is made in China? Check the box it came in and if that doesn't list where it's made, open the box and check the part itself. O'Reilly's also lists a BWD ignition coil for your Corolla and their website says to call for pricing and availability. The link is below. BWD is a very good quality ignition coil and it's worth it to pay more for it. If they don't have the BWD coil in stock, generally auto parts stores can get any part you need overnight and at no extra charge. A high quality ignition coil will help the engine to run smoother, start easier, have more power and better fuel economy.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search.oap?eyword=ignition+coil&year=1999&make=Toyota&model=Corolla&vi=5018313
Now, when you swap the ignition coils and if the misfire then moves from cylinder #3 to another cylinder, then we know for a fact that ignition coil is weak and needs to be replaced. To reduce hassle and save time, it's a good idea to have the replacement ignition coil right there with you and ready to go. So purchase it ahead of time. If the coil turns out not to be the problem, you can always return the new coil you purchased and get a refund. Make certain you keep your receipt or they wont give you a refund.
Next, when the ignition coils are swapped right to left and left to right, it is vitally important that the spark plug wires don't get mixed up and plugged into the incorrect terminals on the ignition coils. If this happens, the firing order of the cylinders will be incorrect and the engine might not run at all and if it does, it will run very roughly and can cause serious internal engine damage as the spark plugs will be firing out of time, or out of their correct order.
So when the ignition coils are swapped, this job must be done slowly and methodically with no interruptions from cell phones ringing, a radio playing, etc., and 100% focus must be paid to keeping those spark plug wires correctly routed to the ignition coils. If this is not done, it is very easy to get the spark plug wires plugged into the incorrect ignition coil terminal, the cylinders are now out of time/order and then the aforementioned problems will occur. What you can do to help avoid this problem, (on top of working slowly and methodically), is to use masking tape and a black felt marker pen to label each spark plug wire and each ignition coil terminal they go to before you disconnect them to swap the ignition coils.
By the picture you posted, it looks like the spark plug wires are already labelled/numbered by the manufacturer, so now all you'll need to label is the ignition coil terminals and which spark plug wire goes to which terminal. This is very, very important.
Next, I looked up the firing order for your Corolla's engine and it's supposed to be 1, 3, 4, 2 -
http://www.2carpros.com/questions/toyota-corolla-1999-toyota-corolla-firing-order
Looking at your engine as you open the hood, (as in the above diagram), the cylinders are numbered 1 through 4 left to right. So if you get the order of the spark plug wires mixed up with the correct ignition coil terminal they go to, referring to the above diagram will save your butt. :thumbsup:
Now, the firing order of 1, 3, 4, 2 also supports that the right side/closest to the firewall/front window ignition coil could be weak and is causing the misfire problem.
Looking at the first diagram above and we can see that starting with the firing order of the #1 spark plug, that spark plug wire is routed to the left side/front ignition coil, the one that looks like it has been replaced. Next in the firing order is the #3 spark plug and we can see that spark plug wire is routed to the right side/back ignition coil, the coil that looks like it has never been replaced. So if that coil is weak and doesn't have enough electricity/spark to make the #3 spark plug fire, that spark plug will misfire and the electricity built up inside the coil will not discharge, but stay inside the coil. Next in the firing order is the #4 spark plug and we can see by the first diagram above that returns to the left side/front ignition coil, (again, the one that looks like it has been replaced). Now, the last spark plug in the firing order is #2 and that returns to the right side/back/suspected weak ignition coil again. Since the #3 spark plug didn't fire when it was supposed to and the electricity didn't discharge from the ignition coil, but remained inside the coil and now the #2 spark plug needs to fire, the weak coil will use the electricity that didn't discharge for the #3 spark plug and combined with the spark/electricity it now has to fire the #2 spark plug, that could provide enough electricity to now make the #2 spark plug fire even though the coil could be weak. I think this may be providing even more evidence that the right/back side ignition coil is weak.
Now again, don't just go and replace that coil, because if it turns out that is not the problem, you will not be able to return that brand new coil and get your money back, because the part has been used and the auto parts store will not take it back. Diagnose the problem first by swapping the coils and seeing if the misfire now goes to another cylinder.
Lastly, with the #3 spark plug misfiring, it is very likely fuel fouled and may now misfire because of that, even though a new ignition coil has been installed. When all is said and done, that spark plug should be removed and visually inspected to see if it looks fouled. If it is, it should be replaced with the same brand and number spark plug.
It's possible that this misfiring problem is twofold and not only is the right side/rear ignition coil weak, but it could also be an internal engine problem on that #3 cylinder. This is very unlikely, but it is a possibility. I just wanted to mention that so you're prepared if that is the case.
So there you go Shawn. I hope this helps you out and gets your car up on its feet again. :thumbsup:
Keep me posted.
Last edited:
Shawn - One more thing I forgot to mention is that when you swap the ignition coils, you will need to unplug the electric connector to each coil and they are made from plastic, which after 15 years is almost certainly going to be very brittle and likely to snap. So be very, very cautious when handling them. If one of the plastic tabs that holds the electric connector does snap, you can use electric tape to hold the connector in. So have some electric tape handy just in case. You'll need a very small screwdriver to gently pry the tabs up so you can slide the electric connectors off.
Shawn - If your cousin is unable to help you swap the ignition coils, you have no choice but to take it to a professional for diagnosis and repair.
Firestone auto centers offer a credit card you can apply for that will help you finance the diagnosis and repair of your Corolla. The card has no annual fee and any time your vehicle needs $299 or more of repairs, or tires, the Firestone credit card gives you six months interest free financing so you can budget it. Just make monthly on time payments, pay off the balance within six months and there's no interest charged. That's a pretty good deal.
Here is the link for the Firestone store locator. There's a very good chance you have a Firestone auto center near you -
http://www.firestonecompleteautocare.com/locate/display-map/?p=1&events=event1&navZip
Another thing I like about the Firestone credit card is that it's accepted at any of the 1,600 + Firestone auto centers across the country, so even if you're out of town you have a line of credit that can get your car repaired and back on the road so you can get home. :thumbsup:
Firestone auto centers offer a credit card you can apply for that will help you finance the diagnosis and repair of your Corolla. The card has no annual fee and any time your vehicle needs $299 or more of repairs, or tires, the Firestone credit card gives you six months interest free financing so you can budget it. Just make monthly on time payments, pay off the balance within six months and there's no interest charged. That's a pretty good deal.
Here is the link for the Firestone store locator. There's a very good chance you have a Firestone auto center near you -
http://www.firestonecompleteautocare.com/locate/display-map/?p=1&events=event1&navZip
Another thing I like about the Firestone credit card is that it's accepted at any of the 1,600 + Firestone auto centers across the country, so even if you're out of town you have a line of credit that can get your car repaired and back on the road so you can get home. :thumbsup:
Last edited:
Scott, good eye and you work like a CSI detective. Yes it would appear that the coil on the left looks newer than the one on the right. You have gone above and beyond in efforts to help me. That is very kind of you. I almost feel guilty for taking up so much of your time but I know you do this from the goodness of your heart and you enjoy helping people.
Just for fun I took a video of my car's engine sound when I first start the car in the morning and then again after the car has warmed. Take a listen and let me know if you hear anything unusual:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbxfUQDDMZg (engine sound on cold start)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yXZ4wXbX74 (engine sound once the car has been warmed)
Sorry about the first video being vertical. I thought I would put up a video just in case you can hear something I cant. I will definitely post an update once I have one. Thank you again :thumbsup: Enjoy your weekend.
Just for fun I took a video of my car's engine sound when I first start the car in the morning and then again after the car has warmed. Take a listen and let me know if you hear anything unusual:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbxfUQDDMZg (engine sound on cold start)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yXZ4wXbX74 (engine sound once the car has been warmed)
Sorry about the first video being vertical. I thought I would put up a video just in case you can hear something I cant. I will definitely post an update once I have one. Thank you again :thumbsup: Enjoy your weekend.
Last edited:
If you do, access it, reset the misfire count, then start the car. You will see Cylinder #3 misfiring ... but if you start getting misfires on #2 as well, then that will strongly point to the ignition coil.
Misfires can happen without triggering a code. Not sure what the threshold misfire rate is for triggering a CEL.
I know when it blinks, it typically means you have a 100% misfire rate.
Misfires can happen without triggering a code. Not sure what the threshold misfire rate is for triggering a CEL.
I know when it blinks, it typically means you have a 100% misfire rate.
My pleasure Shawn and not a problem. Life is about helping others, not accumulating material possessions that come our last moment on earth we can't take with us anyway.
By all the observable evidence, I have a strong suspicion you have a weak ignition coil issue with the engine.
Another suggestion; when you remove that suspected weak coil, take it to an auto parts store like O'Reilly's or AutoZone and have them bench test it. They will do this for you for free. Call in advance to make sure they can do this for you.
The reason I suggest this is because if the coil is just starting to go bad, it could be doing so only intermittently, which it sounds like it could be. So after you swap the coil, if it doesn't happen to decide to cause a problem, then the misfire wont go to another cylinder. Secondly, the bench test will definitively reveal if the coil is bad or not. As a side benefit, it would be easier to do as well because then you wouldn't have to mess with swapping the ignition coils and instead just replace the weak one.
In my area, the auto parts stores can bench test ignition coils if the staff they have are trained to do so. I'm not sure about your area of course, so call around.
By all the observable evidence, I have a strong suspicion you have a weak ignition coil issue with the engine.
Another suggestion; when you remove that suspected weak coil, take it to an auto parts store like O'Reilly's or AutoZone and have them bench test it. They will do this for you for free. Call in advance to make sure they can do this for you.
The reason I suggest this is because if the coil is just starting to go bad, it could be doing so only intermittently, which it sounds like it could be. So after you swap the coil, if it doesn't happen to decide to cause a problem, then the misfire wont go to another cylinder. Secondly, the bench test will definitively reveal if the coil is bad or not. As a side benefit, it would be easier to do as well because then you wouldn't have to mess with swapping the ignition coils and instead just replace the weak one.
In my area, the auto parts stores can bench test ignition coils if the staff they have are trained to do so. I'm not sure about your area of course, so call around.
Mr. Kopoian,
No I don't know how to access the misfire counter on the Torque app. Can you please assist? I thought that information was only available to technicians who use expensive scan tools. This would be great data to look at. Please let me know how to set up misfire monitoring on the Torque app. Thank you in advance.
No I don't know how to access the misfire counter on the Torque app. Can you please assist? I thought that information was only available to technicians who use expensive scan tools. This would be great data to look at. Please let me know how to set up misfire monitoring on the Torque app. Thank you in advance.
Can either one of you help me understand these test results? I run the test on Torque Pro app under "Test Results" and got the following reading:
Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android
================================================
Vehicle VIN: Not present
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present
Unit and scaling information are not supplied with the data from the ECU for this type of vehicle. Consulting the manufacturers service book for this information is recommended.
Test report:
------------------
TID:$02 CID:$01
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 28
Test result value: 255
PASS
----
TID:$02 CID:$02
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 5
Test result value: 255
PASS
----
TID:$02 CID:$03
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 12
Test result value: 255
PASS
----
TID:$02 CID:$04
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 32
Test result value: 48
PASS
----
TID:$04 CID:$01
- High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Min: 3,277
Test result value: 65,535
PASS
----
TID:$04 CID:$02
- High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Min: 3,277
Test result value: 65,535
PASS
----
End of report
Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android
================================================
Vehicle VIN: Not present
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present
Unit and scaling information are not supplied with the data from the ECU for this type of vehicle. Consulting the manufacturers service book for this information is recommended.
Test report:
------------------
TID:$02 CID:$01
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 28
Test result value: 255
PASS
----
TID:$02 CID:$02
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 5
Test result value: 255
PASS
----
TID:$02 CID:$03
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 12
Test result value: 255
PASS
----
TID:$02 CID:$04
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 32
Test result value: 48
PASS
----
TID:$04 CID:$01
- High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Min: 3,277
Test result value: 65,535
PASS
----
TID:$04 CID:$02
- High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Min: 3,277
Test result value: 65,535
PASS
----
End of report
If you launch the Torque app. Hit menu then select settings then choose Manage extra PIDS/Sensors. Hit menu again you will see an option to add custom PID or ADD predefined set. I cant seem to find anything here that list misfires monitoring perhaps since my corolla is a 99 maybe it doesn't transmit that information to ecu? Maybe there is a way to add through the custom PIDI option but am not sure. Let me know if you find it. Thanks.
As I suspected my ecm does not report the misfire information like yours does. I bet you have a newer car. Here is all the data I get under the "Test Results":
Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android
================================================
Vehicle VIN: Not present
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present
Unit and scaling information are not supplied with the data from the ECU for this type of vehicle. Consulting the manufacturers service book for this information is recommended.
Test report:
------------------
TID:$02 CID:$01
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 28
Test result value: 255
PASS
----
TID:$02 CID:$02
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 5
Test result value: 255
PASS
----
TID:$02 CID:$03
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 12
Test result value: 255
PASS
----
TID:$02 CID:$04
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 32
Test result value: 48
PASS
----
TID:$04 CID:$01
- High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Min: 3,277
Test result value: 65,535
PASS
----
TID:$04 CID:$02
- High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Min: 3,277
Test result value: 65,535
PASS
----
End of report
Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android
================================================
Vehicle VIN: Not present
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present
Unit and scaling information are not supplied with the data from the ECU for this type of vehicle. Consulting the manufacturers service book for this information is recommended.
Test report:
------------------
TID:$02 CID:$01
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 28
Test result value: 255
PASS
----
TID:$02 CID:$02
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 5
Test result value: 255
PASS
----
TID:$02 CID:$03
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 12
Test result value: 255
PASS
----
TID:$02 CID:$04
- Lean to Rich sensor threshold voltage(constant)
Min: 32
Test result value: 48
PASS
----
TID:$04 CID:$01
- High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Min: 3,277
Test result value: 65,535
PASS
----
TID:$04 CID:$02
- High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Min: 3,277
Test result value: 65,535
PASS
----
End of report
Here is all the data I get from the Torque test results:
http://i59.tinypic.com/eta03p.png
http://i57.tinypic.com/2q3uf5t.png
Not sure how I can access the information you are getting. Again I think because my corolla is a 99 is only see the data listed above. Let me know if you think I am missing something.
Thanks.
http://i59.tinypic.com/eta03p.png
http://i57.tinypic.com/2q3uf5t.png
Not sure how I can access the information you are getting. Again I think because my corolla is a 99 is only see the data listed above. Let me know if you think I am missing something.
Thanks.
Okay guys as per your recommendation I had my cousin swap out the coils see pic below. Additionally I had him check the gap on the spark plug it looked to be within spec 0.044. The NGK spark plug looked good and not fouled. I will have to wait until the morning to start the car when the engine is cold to check if the misfire moves to another cylinder.
Mr. Kopoian I did wait for the test results to refresh to no avail. I don't get the same data as you. I am sure this has to do with the fact that my car is much older and the ecm doesn't have the same capabilities.
Thank you again for your continued support and feedback.
http://oi60.tinypic.com/fkywhv.jpg
Mr. Kopoian I did wait for the test results to refresh to no avail. I don't get the same data as you. I am sure this has to do with the fact that my car is much older and the ecm doesn't have the same capabilities.
Thank you again for your continued support and feedback.
http://oi60.tinypic.com/fkywhv.jpg
Last edited:
I am sorry and disappointed to report, switching the coils did not remedy the misfire on cylinder #3. I started the car this morning and got a pending coding of P0303 same as before :cursing:
http://oi57.tinypic.com/2yocnyf.jpg
I guess it was worth a shot. Well, back to the drawing board. I am sure you two are ready to call it quits on my corolla and for that I can't blame you. In case if either one of you thinks of anything else please do advise. I continue to be grateful for all your help.
http://oi57.tinypic.com/2yocnyf.jpg
I guess it was worth a shot. Well, back to the drawing board. I am sure you two are ready to call it quits on my corolla and for that I can't blame you. In case if either one of you thinks of anything else please do advise. I continue to be grateful for all your help.
Last edited:
Sigh...darn it all. Well this is all part of the process of diagnosis. So now at least we know it's probably not the ignition coil. I say probably because with that #3 spark plug misfiring, it's possible that it became fouled and even with a good coil, it could be misfiring when cold because of the fouling.
I recommend removing the #3 spark plug and visually inspect it to see what it looks like. This will provide a lot of good clues.
The chart at the link below will tell you how to read a spark plug, or in other words, what you are looking at -
http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm
Using the chart above, see which picture most looks like the #3 spark plug and also compare that spark plug with another one from another cylinder. They should look the same. If not, we can go from there. It is possible that #3 spark plug is defective, or possibly broken. Many people use gorilla force when tightening spark plugs and this can very easily break the spark plug.
The P0303 trouble code indicates the #3 cylinder is misfiring -
http://engine-codes.com/p0303_toyota.html
- Faulty spark plug 3
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector 3
- Faulty ignition coil 3
- Fuel injector 3 harness is open or shorted
- Fuel injector 3 circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coil 3 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coil 3 circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinder 3 compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Intake air leak
I recommend removing the #3 spark plug and visually inspect it to see what it looks like. This will provide a lot of good clues.
The chart at the link below will tell you how to read a spark plug, or in other words, what you are looking at -
http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm
Using the chart above, see which picture most looks like the #3 spark plug and also compare that spark plug with another one from another cylinder. They should look the same. If not, we can go from there. It is possible that #3 spark plug is defective, or possibly broken. Many people use gorilla force when tightening spark plugs and this can very easily break the spark plug.
The P0303 trouble code indicates the #3 cylinder is misfiring -
http://engine-codes.com/p0303_toyota.html
- Faulty spark plug 3
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector 3
- Faulty ignition coil 3
- Fuel injector 3 harness is open or shorted
- Fuel injector 3 circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coil 3 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coil 3 circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinder 3 compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Intake air leak
I was in this same situation about a year ago with one of my cars (not my Corolla) and like you, changing the plugs and moving the ignition coils around also did not remedy the situation. In my case I had a blown head gasket. Have someone check the compression on all the cylinders (sorry if that's already been suggested) and if that's not conclusive have a local shop do a cylinder leak-down test. It was the leak-down test which pointed to a blown head gasket and a cracked cylinder head. Definitely a worse-case scenario but if the rest of the engine is in good shape shouldn't be a big deal.
Good luck!
Kevin
Good luck!
Kevin
Kevin, I suppose that could also explain why it does it when cold and not when warmed up (metal expansion seals a crack or leak is a possibility).
I'm with him. Let the engine cool off completely, and do a cylinder leak down test on #3. We already went for ignition, fuel, vacuum leaks, and compression testing, so I guess that is all there is left really.
I'm with him. Let the engine cool off completely, and do a cylinder leak down test on #3. We already went for ignition, fuel, vacuum leaks, and compression testing, so I guess that is all there is left really.
Thanks for your input Kevin. I can use all the help I can get and please don't worry about the information being redundant. Now the mechanic I have been working with has done both the leak down and compression test (so he says) His final diagnosis was "worn valve seals" or "valve not seating properly" something about the oil slipping past the ring/seal which needs to be burned off before the car will run properly hence the cold misfires. I believe this is why he added the "Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer" perhaps in efforts to slow down the leak/ oil burning. To fix properly he has to take the head off, send to a machine shop for valve job. I don't remember what else he said after that as I was in shock that I had just purchased a car that will most likely need a new engine. The quote was around $1300 to $1500 to fix properly. I just don't have this kind of money to throw at this car.
Question. If it was the head gasket wouldn't I have white smoke billowing from exhaust? Wouldn't car over heat? I don't have any of these symptoms. I will check my coolant level to see if it has gone down. I will also check oil cap for milky residue. Will report back shortly. Thank you all!
Question. If it was the head gasket wouldn't I have white smoke billowing from exhaust? Wouldn't car over heat? I don't have any of these symptoms. I will check my coolant level to see if it has gone down. I will also check oil cap for milky residue. Will report back shortly. Thank you all!
Last edited:
Shawn, sometimes a blown HG will cause white smoke and overheating but sometimes not. About a year ago I blew the head gasket on my Isuzu Amigo and never experienced excess white smoke or overheating. What I did notice was a chronic loss of coolant and it ocassionally ran rough (generally when it was cold) and it was down on power. Like DK mentioned as a possibility, in my case one of my heads had a hair-line crack which would seal-up sometimes and other times be open. When it finally got torn-down the head was junk and was replaced with a re-manufactured one.
If the head gasket is blown and/or you need a valve job I wonder if it would be cheaper to find a good, used (or re-manufactured) head? Toyota has made this engine, essentially un-changed for years so I would think a replacement head should be fairly inexpensive, though with labor I'm sure it would be ~$1,000 Before you do that, make certain that is the problem. Might be time to get a second opinion from another shop. Oh, and be glad it's not an obscure V6 engine which hasn't been made in ten years! In the case of my Isuzu finding a replacement head took a week, so it could always be worse :blink:
Kevin
If the head gasket is blown and/or you need a valve job I wonder if it would be cheaper to find a good, used (or re-manufactured) head? Toyota has made this engine, essentially un-changed for years so I would think a replacement head should be fairly inexpensive, though with labor I'm sure it would be ~$1,000
Before you do that, make certain that is the problem. Might be time to get a second opinion from another shop. Oh, and be glad it's not an obscure V6 engine which hasn't been made in ten years! In the case of my Isuzu finding a replacement head took a week, so it could always be worse :blink:Kevin
I see. Kevin thanks for taking the time to share your story with me. At this point I have become suggestible to any possibility...lol So it may be the head/gasket. I will explore this further. What's interesting is after swapping the coil not only do I have a pending misfire code for cylinder number 3 (p0303) this morning it also showed a new pending code for Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire (p0300) . I hope I didn't exasperate the problem by switching coils. See image below:
http://oi60.tinypic.com/2jf5gn.jpg
Neither one of these codes have matured into a check engine light so I wont go into panic mode just yet. I just wanted to share this information just in case it gives clues to the actual underlying problem. Additionally I have seen an improvement in my gas mileage. I was getting about 25MPG and now for the last two fill ups I have been getting 30.5mpg (50%hwy 50%city). I wounder if this is the engine restore at work. Hmm...
http://oi60.tinypic.com/2jf5gn.jpg
Neither one of these codes have matured into a check engine light so I wont go into panic mode just yet. I just wanted to share this information just in case it gives clues to the actual underlying problem. Additionally I have seen an improvement in my gas mileage. I was getting about 25MPG and now for the last two fill ups I have been getting 30.5mpg (50%hwy 50%city). I wounder if this is the engine restore at work. Hmm...
Last edited:
I know your pain. My girlfriend got a used car and they stuck the wrong year valve cover on it (found that out when I was trying to figure out how oil was leaking out of it), almost got in a fistfight with the dealership owner to get them to put the correct valve cover on, and then the POS spun a main bearing 6 months in. Never, ever again will I buy used unless it is a certified pre-owned at a dealer lot. Ended up getting it fixed (got an 3rd party warranty on it thankfully), and traded it in for her 2010 Corolla.
At least your car is drive-able. I'm not sure what else there is except to take it to another shop and get a second opinion on it (I don't trust the first mechanic further than I could throw him, especially after he threw parts at it instead of figuring out the problem). There is the possibility that what the previous mechanic replaced he didn't do properly, and diagnosing a car online which requires complex troubleshooting is rough. If the valve seals were truly the issue, it would have shown up on the leak-down test (and there would be signs of oil on that spark plug).
I'd be willing to bet he did the leak-down test with the engine hot. Supposed to wait until the engine is at ambient temperature before doing a leak-down test or a compression test.
At least your car is drive-able. I'm not sure what else there is except to take it to another shop and get a second opinion on it (I don't trust the first mechanic further than I could throw him, especially after he threw parts at it instead of figuring out the problem). There is the possibility that what the previous mechanic replaced he didn't do properly, and diagnosing a car online which requires complex troubleshooting is rough. If the valve seals were truly the issue, it would have shown up on the leak-down test (and there would be signs of oil on that spark plug).
I'd be willing to bet he did the leak-down test with the engine hot. Supposed to wait until the engine is at ambient temperature before doing a leak-down test or a compression test.
As suspected both codes matured this morning and check engine light came on with P0303 and P0300. Not flashing just lit. Here is freeze frame data:Freeze frame report generated by Torque for Android
=========================================================
Vehicle VIN: Not present
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present
Freeze frame information:
------------------
Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 53.333 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 95 °F
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = -4.688 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = 0.781 %
Intake Manifold Pressure = 7.687 psi
Engine RPM = 894.5 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 1.864 mph
Intake Air Temperature = 69.8 °F
End of report.
=========================================================
Vehicle VIN: Not present
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present
Freeze frame information:
------------------
Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 53.333 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 95 °F
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = -4.688 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = 0.781 %
Intake Manifold Pressure = 7.687 psi
Engine RPM = 894.5 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 1.864 mph
Intake Air Temperature = 69.8 °F
End of report.
Last edited:
Not exactly the same. I now have a new matured code of P0300. This happened after coil swap not sure what to make of that. I can't wait to have money again so I lease a new Merc...ah the good ol days. I thought I would be happy with any old used car and I am finding that far from being the truth. Sorry I know I sound so ungrateful. I am just frustrated.
Last edited:
Shawn - That was not a criticism, just an observation. Leasing doesn't make financial sense unless it's for a company with a fleet of vehicles. With a lease, the payments are never ending. You're always behind the 8-ball. Then when the lease period is up, you return the car you've leased/rented, your bank account is a lot emptier and you have nothing in your driveway anymore but an empty space.
At least when you purchase a vehicle, there is an end to the payments. As you make payments on your vehicle you are building equity in the vehicle and have something you can actually sell, something that is actually yours, as opposed to an empty driveway.:thumbsup:
At least when you purchase a vehicle, there is an end to the payments. As you make payments on your vehicle you are building equity in the vehicle and have something you can actually sell, something that is actually yours, as opposed to an empty driveway.:thumbsup:
To argue to the contrary. Benefits of Leasing a Car.
By leasing a new vehicle, many shoppers are able to get more car for less money. The car’s monthly payments are typically lower because you’re only paying for the future depreciation of that vehicle, and not the actual sales price. For example, on a $30,000 car, you’d finance the entire $30,000 purchase price with a car loan. With a car lease, you only pay a percentage of that. The car’s predicted future value is what it is expected to be worth at the end of the lease, which is its residual value. The residual value is subtracted from the purchase price and what’s left over is what you make payments on. So if the car’s residual value is 55 percent after three years, for example, that means the $30,000 car would be worth $16,500 at the end of the lease. You’d make lease payments on the remaining $13,500 and not the full $30,000, plus interest, taxes and fees.
If you only have a small down payment saved up, leasing may also be better for you. Many car leases require anywhere from $0 to several thousand dollars up front, though the down payment is negotiable. Many advertised lease offers will promote low payments, but require a sizeable down payment. If you want to put as little down as possible, remember that your monthly lease payments will be higher.
Many leases last about three years, which is typically the length of many new-car bumper-to-bumper warranties. As a result, the car is usually covered under warranty for repairs for the duration of the lease. You still need to maintain the car, though, which includes oil changes, tire rotations and recommended maintenance from the manufacturer. Failure to properly maintain the car during the lease can result in fees when you turn the car in at the end of the lease.
If you enjoy having the newest high-tech features, leasing could be better for you. Since you’d be leasing every few years, each new car you lease will have the latest and greatest technology and safety features. If you’ve fallen in love with your leased car and want to keep it, you can generally buy it at the end of the lease by paying cash or by taking out a car loan to finance the balance.
By leasing a new vehicle, many shoppers are able to get more car for less money. The car’s monthly payments are typically lower because you’re only paying for the future depreciation of that vehicle, and not the actual sales price. For example, on a $30,000 car, you’d finance the entire $30,000 purchase price with a car loan. With a car lease, you only pay a percentage of that. The car’s predicted future value is what it is expected to be worth at the end of the lease, which is its residual value. The residual value is subtracted from the purchase price and what’s left over is what you make payments on. So if the car’s residual value is 55 percent after three years, for example, that means the $30,000 car would be worth $16,500 at the end of the lease. You’d make lease payments on the remaining $13,500 and not the full $30,000, plus interest, taxes and fees.
If you only have a small down payment saved up, leasing may also be better for you. Many car leases require anywhere from $0 to several thousand dollars up front, though the down payment is negotiable. Many advertised lease offers will promote low payments, but require a sizeable down payment. If you want to put as little down as possible, remember that your monthly lease payments will be higher.
Many leases last about three years, which is typically the length of many new-car bumper-to-bumper warranties. As a result, the car is usually covered under warranty for repairs for the duration of the lease. You still need to maintain the car, though, which includes oil changes, tire rotations and recommended maintenance from the manufacturer. Failure to properly maintain the car during the lease can result in fees when you turn the car in at the end of the lease.
If you enjoy having the newest high-tech features, leasing could be better for you. Since you’d be leasing every few years, each new car you lease will have the latest and greatest technology and safety features. If you’ve fallen in love with your leased car and want to keep it, you can generally buy it at the end of the lease by paying cash or by taking out a car loan to finance the balance.
Last edited:
Leasing is the best option for people that change cars like underwear, but if you hang on to your cars for a long time, then purchasing is the best way to go.
I'm trying to think on how the coil swap would generate a P0300 ... I don't see how unless they got fumbled while being swapped.
I'd definitely go to a second mechanic and get his opinion.
I'm trying to think on how the coil swap would generate a P0300 ... I don't see how unless they got fumbled while being swapped.
I'd definitely go to a second mechanic and get his opinion.
Yes it's puzzling. However this morning I do not show a pending code of P0300. I only show a pending code of P0303. I am debating between a mechanic a friend recommended and the Toyota dealership. I will definitely let you guys know once the car has been properly diagnosed. Thank you all for your input.