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Possibly. I did mine at around 150 after making sure the rings were set in well and it was relatively clean.

You can use the 1ZZ-FE that was in the '03 - '08, but I side with Scott and say rebuild it if the rebuild will cost less than another car. Rebuilding gives you an engine at 0 miles ... as opposed to a used mystery engine that may have been beat to hell before the chassis was crashed.

Welcome aboard the forums! For photos, use Photobucket or imgur, get the image URL, click the photo icon, then drop the URL there. Attachments don't work on modern cameras because the size limit is very conservative to save server space.

Welcome aboard the forums!

Welcome aboard the forums!

Fishy, maybe you need a battery with a higher amp rating so that it will hold a charge longer. Optima red tops are expensive, but they are superb batteries and have a large amperage and CCW rating that may help you out if you don't start that car often. Plus they last longer.

Are 30 and 50 km/h speeds used often in your country? For a long time in the U.S, the tick for 55 mph was a different color in some speedometers back when the speed limit was 55 for the freeways. Auto makers did it at the time to make seeing the typical speed limits easier.

That usually happens. Fuel prices drop, people start driving more, and BAM. Demand rises, prices skyrocket again. I think this time it will take longer since OPEC is on its last leg.

Average MPG is the average from the last reset until current time (you can reset it manually between fill-ups by holding DISP when it is displayed). The reason it isn't accurate has to do with refresh rates. If you notice, the Average MPG figure only updates every few seconds on the screen...

You have the oil burner years ('98 - '02 1ZZ-FE) that are notorious for burning oil. The switch to synthetic may be cleaning up the sludge that causes the oil burning. Keep at it for 5k and see if it improves.

Definitely the easiest way, then you don't have to cut into a line ... but it will take a little longer.

Sludging from using the wrong oil is going to be a LOT more expensive than the savings from using conventional oil. Stick with synthetic and use what the manual recommends. If you use 0w-20, you only need to change every 10k ... so that helps offset some of the cost, as well as giving you...

I would highly recommend getting a dead logic board (don't matter where it comes from, preferably one with large components and not something like a computer motherboard), and practice soldering and unsoldering resistors. That way, you get the hang of it before going to your instrument cluster.

If it does it again, hold the power button for 3 seconds, that restarts the stereo system. Might be worth having a dealer look at it.

Sounds like the transmission is defective (probably wasn't adjusted right at the factory). No idea how that relates to the TCS and VSC lights ...

Is the switch set to door?

Cool! Let us know how it turns out.

I'm not sure what else it could be. If the VVT-i was the issue, I imagine it would idle fine but run worse as engine speed increased. As far as the fans go, they go off the temperature of the PCM, but there may be something in there to turn them on after enough starting to get some cool air...

Sounds good! Future members may get help from that as well. Hopefully someone here with that year can hook you up with a picture.

Check the belt. I've seen worn belts start slipping when the power steering pump had drag introduced to it. Then go from there.