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I never posted back (could have sworn I did). It isn't possible for the dealership to change the threshold and they wanted $100+ to install the load resistors. I'm going to pull my cluster out in October since I am off from school, and probe around and see what I can find. Those resistors do...

That price is over $4,000 off MSRP for his model. That's a tough deal to get until the 2015s roll on the lots (surprised dealers are taking that much of a hit on them but I'm wondering what kind of surprises they add on to get the money back).

I noticed it is a slight pain in the ass to get my angle adjustment set if someone messes with it, but I'm the primary driver of the car so it doesn't bother me much.

Well, I'm into cars, and I am into programming, so if I was programming car stereo systems or car PCM's, information displays, etc ... I would be content :-D

S would have cruise, foglights, power windows and locks, etc. Clutch will be a pain like it is on any FWD car, but if you have already done them on a FWD car then you know what you are in for.

The only way to get rid of surface rust is to use a power sander until you see metal, then re-spray the area. If the rust is severe, the panel will need to be replaced (and rear-quarter panels are welded on, so you'll have to drill the spot welds and weld in the new panel, not something that an...

Yeah, waiting until your oil looks like Chunky Campbells Soup probably isn't the best idea :-X

2014 S ... still waiting to hit 10,000 :-D

Let it go ... spun bearings will make knocking noises. Eventually the engine will break or sieze up entirely.

Yeah, possible exhaust leak when you put it that way ... and I'm a moron ... didn't even notice your signature this morning, LOL! For the clutch, have a friend help you bleed it when you get a chance, and make sure that the brake reservoir is topped with fresh fluid before you do it. You'll...

http://www.corollaforum.com/showthread.php?t=2160 As far as the low idle goes ... the engine should be sputtering and shaking like crazy at that rpm. If it isn't, I'd verify that the tachometer is reading correctly. If it is ... then I'm thinking you have a vacuum leak that you have to go...

There is a sticky where Scott posted the repair for the clock. It is on this forum.

Sounds like the top end of the motor got oil starved and caused damage. I'd get a mechanic to look at it. Oil has nothing to do with the intake manifold, damage is probably somewhere in the valve train and you are hearing it resonate through the intake ducting.

I'm leaning on the belt too. If it hasn't been replaced, now would be a good time. I change mine every 60k because when they break, they strand you, and for $25 for a high quality one, it just isn't worth stretching it to its death.

That's where my money is. Somebody forgot it on a clutch change.

If I didn't enjoy helping people, I wouldn't be here. Honestly, it is considerate and appreciative people like yourself that I really enjoy helping the most! Keep us posted, and share a video of the car being fired up and running with no lights!

To each their own. The seatbelt alarm doesn't bother me when I wear it, and it is nice to have the audio cue that I did indeed lock my doors.

I haven't seen anyone dip the inside, but I don't see why it couldn't be done. Just make sure that the surface is clean and that you didn't just armor-all it.

As long as it is universal and you are familiar with electronic installations, any of those will work. They all tie into the power locks system.

Nice write-up as well!