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Here ya are. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5ino2O3e3c

Watched your video fishy. No room for a c-clamp + socket back there, even with a small one, and wow ... I have never seen lug studs on that tight. They should have come out with the amount of force you were using. Almost seems like you are better off pulling the hub out entirely (then the...

Soumikcha, you're killing me. 1) Yes I have lifted a vehicle on all fours, several times. 2) Find level ground, but if it isn't possible, then shake the car to make sure it won't move. If it moves, you can't do it safely.

Welcome to the forum! Exterior still looks great as far as I can tell!

Grip the socket and turn left. Might have to push it in while turning.

It has been a long while since I have torn down an engine. I can't find a picture of the camshaft bearing for a 2ZR-FE to save my life; however, the 1ZZ-FE camshaft bearings don't have a tab (guess Toyota engineers put a lot of faith in tight-tolerance machining to keep them in place), so...

Check my post in the other thread.

If the leak is indeed on the intake runner for Cylinder #3, yes. Also, check the coil with a multimeter and make sure it is in tolerance, and don't replace any more parts without troubleshooting!

Usually they do have a tab, similar to main bearings on a crankshaft or rod bearings. One of the nice things about OHC engines. On OHV engines, changing camshaft bearings was a pain. Out of curiosity, when you replaced the camshaft, did you plastigauge it with the caps torqued to ensure that...

As long as it is on jackstands and the front tires are on the ground and chalked, you should be okay ... just give the car a shake and make sure it won't fall.

Last time I was out there it looked like they were working on Kramer Junction to 4 lanes. A lot better than it was back in 2000 when you only had 4 lanes from Bridgeport to Bishop and that was it until Inyokern, then right back to 2 lanes after the 14 split off.

That would be cool. Sounds like the stud that soum has on there was probably machined wrong (i.e. OD was oversized), or there is rust that he cannot see binding it up badly. I've never personally had to give one more than a few taps to get it out.

Getting the halfshaft out is actually the hardest part. Loosen all of the components (lower ball joint, outer-tie rod end, strut tower), use a pickle fork to separate the joints from the spindle, remove hardware, pull straight out off the halfshaft. Did Autozone by any chance have a lifetime...

Hell ... I had to bring the manual in to the dealership so I could get my turn signal changed from 3 flashes to 7.

No way to test without removing the injectors, unfortunately. Try again, make sure you get every single hose, mating surface, and anything that uses vacuum. Brake booster is usually the usual suspect if none of the lines appear to be leaking, and another one to check is the vacuum reservoir...

Speaking of, I need to pick some up before it rains again ... it's been 8 months and the bottom half doesn't wipe to save its life.

4 years? Wow. In SoCal, you're lucky if you can get more than 6 months out of wiper blades. The heat is murder on them. I prefer Rain-X blades. Great performance. These ones have a blade-change indicator: http://www.rainx.com/product/wiper-blades/rain-x-quantum-wiper-blades/#.VCPO2hZ0avc...

Double check for a vacuum leak. I don't think it is the HO2S since you have pinging accompanied with the lean condition. Causes could be: 1. Fuel Injector failure (poor pattern spray will cause pinging from double-ignition) 2. Vacuum leak (pinging from lean condition) 3. Stuck thermostat...

Also, once the halfshaft is in the spider gear carrier assembly, you push it in to snap the c-ring in place.

If you spin the halfshaft with everything pointing straight, nothing bad happens. If the halfshaft is at an extreme angle and you turn it, it puts a lot of stress on it and can damage it. They require your full attention when installing them. If you are bending the spindle and the halfshaft...