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You can also use a c-clamp if you are creative. Find a solid cylinder that has an ID big enough to fit the knurled part of the stud inside of it (the part that holds itself onto the drum, you might even be able to use a large 12 pt. socket for this), cover the top of the cylinder with a piece...

If you need a 5 pound hammer and it is still not coming out, only way it will at that point is if you heat it up, and with a drum, you can warp it badly and compromise your brake system by heating it up. Stop banging on it, and use a press to push it out. If you don't have one, take the drum...

If the EPS system fails, the car is a pain to turn, same as when hydraulic power steering fails. There actually is a recall in progress on Toyota's for wiring assembly that can become twisted and cause the wiring to rip apart inside the insulation, but the recall stated that this will cause...

And it looks like part #35270-52011 replaced it.

http://etereman.com/blog/toyota-automatic/common-problems-with-the-u341e-transmission-that-all-repairs-shops-should-be-aware-of#more-4053 This explains what to do if the torque converter is failing to lock up (which would throw a P2757 code) This is what the solenoid looks like: And this is...

What type of phone is it? Some older versions of Android don't play nice with the Entune units.

Welcome to the site!

Use this one for the dome light: http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/led-bulbs/listed-by-size/31mm-festoon/31mm-2-5050-smd.html The one from SuperBright LEDS was weak; however, all of my other bulbs are from them. And these ones for the map lights...

Ugh, hate it when they go King Kong on bolts for no reason.

So I stalled the car at a light that turned green, started the engine back up and made my left turn, and my EPS light stayed on for a minute before it shut off. Never went back on in subsequent starts, had full steering the entire time the light was on, wondering if the steering wheel doesn't...

Is the EPS light coming on while all of this is happening? It could signal an overheating EPS motor.

Also, if loosening the wheels helps with spinning, there is a chance the wheel or tire is rubbing on something in the back ... are these the stock OEM wheels and tires or aftermarket?

Alright, saw you already replaced the wheel bearing and hub as well... Did you torque the hub to specification. Any chance you overtightened it?

Alright ... I mis-read it. So this was an issue before you replaced the brakes. How does the wheel bearing look? Could be siezing up from lack of grease.

That isn't the temperature sensor, that is the reverse sensor. You risk overfilling by not using the fill plug (usually you fill fluid to the bottom of the fill plug hole, then you are good). If the fill capacity says 2 quarts, and you are certain you drained two quarts, you can fill through...

I typically don't carry cables on me, but that's because I have a stickshift, so if I kill my own battery, I can roll start the car. Just remember these things when jumping a car and you'll never have problems: 1) Start with both cars completely off, key out of the ignition, no headlights on...

Take off the wheel and the drum, make sure that the shoes are properly seated and in place. Check the lower shoe mount and make sure that the shoe is all the way seated on it.