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I reused it. No sense in replacing it since it was in really good shape. Been 9 months and no exhaust leaks.

Robert. Sorry I was away. Been busy with my newborn son. Just move the rubber grommets along the bracket to center. No special tools needed.

I did my LED high beams. Will post a thread to it with pictures when I get them on photobucket. I did the vleds.com LMZ 4500 lumen 9005 kit. They light up everything like there is no tomorrow. The driver side does fit. It is really close to the battery but it does fit.

I have had my rear sway bar for a while. No regrets whatsoever. Also, never EVER loosen bolts with a torque wrench or use extension bars on them. At best, you'll throw it out of calibration doing that. Either use an extension bar with a 3/4" ratchet or use two combo wrenches coupled together.

As what everyone else said, you aren't in Auto When Auto is off, the temperature readout is more or less decoration than an actual setting (like the blue and red gradients on manual systems). I keep mine set to 67 winter or summer unless my fiance is in the car, then I get nagged to bump it up...

I would avoid a rear-mount turbo system. There is a reason why pretty much every rear-mount turbo kit manufacturer went out of business. Lag, oil delivery issues, etc. etc. etc. And dude, asking for donations to build up a turbo car to blow up your CVT (which probably will happen even with...

They fixed that issue. There were never reported fires, but the material didn't meet safety codes so Toyota couldn't legally sell the cars, and had to fix them.

If the shop broke the TPMS, then they should replace it. The light is an LED, and I would strongly recommend against tampering with that light. Not only is it illegal, but that cluster is about impossible to disassemble without destroying the meters.

The squeak could be a lot of things. If you need to roll down your windows and have the stereo completely off to hear it, then chances are it is a normal sound (probably the sound the bearing makes when it isn't loaded by oil pressure on the pulley). I noticed on the 6MT that first gear is a...

It is either a CVT or a 4-speed automatic, not both. The newer CVT simulates a 7-speed, but it only simulates ... the two terms are not interchangeable. Anyway, if it is doing it when cold but not when warm, then it sounds like the fluid level is a little low (ATF expands when warm). Keep in...

If you have a smartkey, you need to be on the brake (automatic) or the clutch (manual) to start the car, or the car will just turn on without starting. I know on some newer cars you need to be on the brake and in Park / Neutral to start the engine, but most will start without your foot being on...

I gotta fix my botched paint job still. Clearcoat looked good ... and then it decided to pour rain 12 hours after the last coat >.< Looked decent for a week and then it flaked like crazy. By the way, don't use the Toyota touch-up paint. It doesn't even match ... looks more like the Prius...

Twist the clear slot piece counter-clockwise and remove it from the license plate lens, then pull the old bulb out. You don't have to remove the assembly from the decklid to do that either. You can do that with the assembly still installed in the car by removing the 4 pins for the decklid...

Don't go to redline anyway. Shift at around 6,000 RPM. Anything past that is outside of the engine's powerband and just makes you accelerate more slowly.

Might have been a fluke. Were you pressing hard enough on the brakes when starting the car?

I tried using a heatgun to separate the two halves, and it wasn't happening. The solution I'll end up doing is like what you posted, replacing the entire assembly with an aftermarket LED one.

I never installed load resistors with my LED signals (plus the ricer flash gets the attention of idiot SoCal drivers). To see which wires to splice in for the front, just get a voltmeter, unplug the socket, and hit the turn signal and look for a flickering 12V signal.

Easy money. When you lift the decklid, you'll see two plastic caps on each side of the trunk. Remove the caps, pull out stock light, replace with LED, snap caps back in.

I would talk to a shop that may be able to fabricate an oil pressure valving system for the CVT. Toyota designed the oiling system to have as little parasitic drag as possible, so you don't have much room as far as turbos go. Also, I've done 115 m.p.h. in the car and felt confident at that...

That's in Canada only and is required over there by law, if I'm not mistaken. U.S. bound vehicles aren't required to have it and usually don't. I imagine the wiring would be there for it but I'm not 100% on that.