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9005 bulb is high beam. The low beam is LED

The engine is sludged, but nothing is broken in there. What you see is the camshaft.

You can use a hydrometer to see if the specific gravity of the coolant is within specifications or not, but it won't tell you much about the anti-corrosion agents. I'd probably just flush it out. Chances are the previous owner hasn't bothered.

On an uneven road, you always gotta have the steering wheel angled for the car to track straight. I'm wondering why they left the driver side rear tire slightly out of factory toe. Were they lazy, or was the car previously in an accident?

All Corollas are 5 x 100 (that's the lug nut specification, not backspacing or offset.

Toyota is going to keep the Maintenance Required light at 5k (you still have to rotate tires and check the fluid levels at 5K intervals). So all the light is doing right now is reminding you to get the tires rotated. All your car needs. Every 10k, use 0W-20 synthetic.

Meh, I don't put a TRD logo on the car unless I actually have TRD parts in the car ... the badge doesn't count as a TRD part either.

Even factory new the headlight assembly isn't $800. Steer clear of them, and get a used one. The bulb is LED and is not replaceable.

LED lights DO make it better. LED Reverse Lights Only: LED Reverse and LED Licence Plate Lights:

17" steelies probably won't be made ... no demand for them. People that get 17" wheels or above want alloys, not steelies.

Holding is scan. A tap is seek. Don't hold it, just press and release it.

Factory nav hasn't let me down yet.

Did you forget to replace a ground, plug something back in? Check all of your electrical and verify that it is correct.

Turn the engine on, pop the hood, and listen around. You can use a clean vacuum line to your ear and probe around the area to find the suspect ... just be very, very cautious of the drive belt.

No it doesn't. You can upgrade your reverse and license plate lights to LED and that will make the camera better at night.

The Nokya is a direct bulb swap (you have to check polarity but that is a given on all LED kits, you also have to mount the box with 3M tape ... refer to my installation guide in this section of the forum for more). The Morimoto you have to swap the housing.

I recommend yellow just because it works better in fog (and I get thick fog in my area). I have the Nokya NOK9618 and love them. If you want white driving lights, look at the Nokya NOK9718, or the Morimoto XB Type T LED housings.

What maintenance have you done on it so far? 140,000 is around 86,662 miles. Aside from the usual suspects, I'd inspect the plugs. It may be their time. I'd also do a coolant flush if you haven't earlier because of the age of the vehicle. Definitely an upstream HO2S if you haven't by now...

Unless you are familiar with automatic transmission repair, I'd get a shop to look at it. That code is for the torque converter lock-up solenoid that is seen when you remove the drain pan and filter for the transmission. Get it looked at. Slipping creates heat and heat will destroy the bands...

87. Anything else is a waste. As far as where I get it from, I stick with Chevron or 7-11 and avoid the ma and pa gas station shops.