Replacing Front Rotors
- Thread starter Kev250R
- Start date
NOPE.
Doing the job safely. If there are no impact screws holding it, you will need to spray first the Rotor with brake cleaner, then lube the center hub area, let sit, lube again, and the rotor will slide off.
lean up the lube and when replacing the new, I brake clean it as well. Why spray the first one and if you are trashing, what if, just if that rotor you got was the wrong one, and It's Sunday and you had to get to.... oh you gots another car....
Yep anything is possible, it really is.
hope all goes well.
Doing the job safely. If there are no impact screws holding it, you will need to spray first the Rotor with brake cleaner, then lube the center hub area, let sit, lube again, and the rotor will slide off.
lean up the lube and when replacing the new, I brake clean it as well. Why spray the first one and if you are trashing, what if, just if that rotor you got was the wrong one, and It's Sunday and you had to get to.... oh you gots another car....
Yep anything is possible, it really is.
hope all goes well.
If you plan on keeping the rotors (i.e. just going to get them turned), PB catalyst near the studs and the hat, as much as you can get as possible, that will help them come off. You may need to hit the top of the hat (carefully) with a ball peen to jar them loose. Before you put them, use a very thin coat of grease on the back of the rotor where it makes contact with the spindle, and that will help it come off easier next time. Don't forget to clean as much rust off as you can so that the rotor sits true to the spindle.
I'm not kidding, I've never seen a spindle rust up like these ones do, and I don't even live in the rust belt.
If you aren't keeping the rotor. Smack the top of the hat in-between each stud, then smack the back of the rotor. If it doesn't come off after that, you ain't hittin' it hard enough.
I'm not kidding, I've never seen a spindle rust up like these ones do, and I don't even live in the rust belt.
If you aren't keeping the rotor. Smack the top of the hat in-between each stud, then smack the back of the rotor. If it doesn't come off after that, you ain't hittin' it hard enough.
Thanks guys, that's what I was hoping to hear. I'm used to working on my trucks and SUV which require pulling the hubs in order to access the rotors which isn't hard, just takes a little more time.
I'm undecided about having the rotors turned. I'm pretty sure these have been turned at least once before so I'm thinking about just replacing them. I found some cross-drilled ones on Amazon which I'm thinking about (been wanting to put a set on my tow rig) but more than likely I will just go with stock replacements and new pads of course.
Gonna pull the rear drums to check the shoes while I have the car in the air, hopefully their in good shape. Maybe I'll snap some pics and post them while I have everything apart.
Thanks again for the feedback!
Kevin
I'm undecided about having the rotors turned. I'm pretty sure these have been turned at least once before so I'm thinking about just replacing them. I found some cross-drilled ones on Amazon which I'm thinking about (been wanting to put a set on my tow rig) but more than likely I will just go with stock replacements and new pads of course.
Gonna pull the rear drums to check the shoes while I have the car in the air, hopefully their in good shape. Maybe I'll snap some pics and post them while I have everything apart.
Thanks again for the feedback!
Kevin
Not to criticize the people who advise smacking brake system parts with hammers but…
I don't recommend using a hammer on brake components—to break things free. Most discs have threaded holes (usually 2) for that purpose. I think the Corolla uses 12mm but you should check. You just screw in the bolts evenly between the two until the rotors or drums pop free and then enough to remove by hand. The bolts work similar to pullers used for gears and bearings.
Since you say you have drum rear brakes. There's a pretty good chance those also have retaining screws to hold the drums flat against the hub. They're probably Phillips head. You will most likely need an impact screwdriver to remove those. Those you have to hammer, but they take most of the impact.
As for Donabed Kopoian's grease idea, better use high temp grease, like anti-seize. But be careful not to get it anywhere near pads, shoes, or brake surfaces.
I don't recommend using a hammer on brake components—to break things free. Most discs have threaded holes (usually 2) for that purpose. I think the Corolla uses 12mm but you should check. You just screw in the bolts evenly between the two until the rotors or drums pop free and then enough to remove by hand. The bolts work similar to pullers used for gears and bearings.
Since you say you have drum rear brakes. There's a pretty good chance those also have retaining screws to hold the drums flat against the hub. They're probably Phillips head. You will most likely need an impact screwdriver to remove those. Those you have to hammer, but they take most of the impact.
As for Donabed Kopoian's grease idea, better use high temp grease, like anti-seize. But be careful not to get it anywhere near pads, shoes, or brake surfaces.
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They actually use a M8-1 whatever length you like for the Drums and you will need to use a puller which is the correct method. you may see that rotor crack in a heart beat if you ignore the pressure or bang. to hard a bang may start to damage. I rather use a mallot, a rubber one to absorb the shock, to transfer the shock, just me
I miss them. Did that and an Optima Red Top and two months later had the new car itch and got my '14 S. When I kill these brakes, EBCs will be back in it.
My 60 - 0 time improved dramatically with those brakes.
And I drive spirited. Apparently Toyota brakes don't appreciate threshold braking and heel-toe downshifts.
My 60 - 0 time improved dramatically with those brakes.
And I drive spirited. Apparently Toyota brakes don't appreciate threshold braking and heel-toe downshifts.
Looks great! Going with drilled rotors is tempting. I'm still thinking about going to those, although I'm not a very spirited driver.
Thanks for the tip about using a bolt to remove the rotors, that seems to be a common trait on Toyota's as I've had to do that on the rear drums on my Toyota P/U and the rear drums on a friends Corolla; I wasn't aware that the front rotors required that too but that makes sense.
I agree about not turning rotors, I generally don't do that but was trying to get by on the cheap but it looks like replacement rotors aren't very expensive so I'm just going to replace them.
Kevin
Thanks for the tip about using a bolt to remove the rotors, that seems to be a common trait on Toyota's as I've had to do that on the rear drums on my Toyota P/U and the rear drums on a friends Corolla; I wasn't aware that the front rotors required that too but that makes sense.
I agree about not turning rotors, I generally don't do that but was trying to get by on the cheap but it looks like replacement rotors aren't very expensive so I'm just going to replace them.
Kevin
Scott, I've heard about the problems with drilled rotors cracking, but not with name-brand rotors, though I'm sure under the right (or wrong?) conditions it could happen. I'm giving some thought to adding them to my tow rig ('04 Silverado on 35" tires) since I primarily use that truck for towing and frequently tow over some pretty tall grades. My Corolla will only get them this time if I can't find replacement rotors locally, although I doubt that'll be a problem.
Kevin
Kevin
I picked-up a set of stock-style (non-drilled or slotted) for my Corolla from O'Reily last night. I'm thinking I'll try the drilled rotors on one of my trucks since it's rare that I even have anyone in the backseat of my Corolla but both of my trucks see a lot of hauling and towing.
It looks like a pretty straight-forward process, if I have time I'm planning on doing the brakes this weekend or one night next week. Funny though, as I was driving home from the parts store last night I noticed that the shimmy is almost gone now so either I've gotten used to it or it's gotten better. Regardless new parts on the front end will make me feel better.
Kevin
It looks like a pretty straight-forward process, if I have time I'm planning on doing the brakes this weekend or one night next week. Funny though, as I was driving home from the parts store last night I noticed that the shimmy is almost gone now so either I've gotten used to it or it's gotten better. Regardless new parts on the front end will make me feel better.
Kevin
Scott, the shimmy was there when I applied the brakes and only at certain speeds. I'm sure it was the rotors as I've had the same symptoms with other cars. I just changed them this morning but haven't taken it for a test drive yet. I do know that the old rotors had been turned at least once before because when I checked the thickness there was a difference (I don't remember off-hand what it was just now). I checked the rear brakes at the same time and they are fine. Then because I'm bugged by small things I painted the drums with hi-temp paint. That'll add 10hp right? :laughing:
Kevin
Kevin
I got the brakes on the '14 nice and warm on the 74 heading into Palm Desert. People were actually nice and turning out so I had the fun part of the drive to myself, LOL!
Managed to get somewhat used to the Corolla's understeer. I load the brakes and cut the wheel at the start of the corner to get a slight oversteer and ease off the brakes to an early apex, then throttle past the apex. Seems to be the best method to approaching the understeer. The car did better in the twisties than I initially thought it would, but I could smell the brakes getting warm so I had to ease off the last mile or so.
Managed to get somewhat used to the Corolla's understeer. I load the brakes and cut the wheel at the start of the corner to get a slight oversteer and ease off the brakes to an early apex, then throttle past the apex. Seems to be the best method to approaching the understeer. The car did better in the twisties than I initially thought it would, but I could smell the brakes getting warm so I had to ease off the last mile or so.
I went through diesel mechanic school in California and lets just say that I excelled. I was chosen along with 10 other students across the nation to go to Chicago to do advanced training paid for by Peterbilt. When I finish my 3 months in Chicago I'll be going to a dealership as a factory trained tech. Those are 2 of our trucks that we get to work on.
For sure. Im soaking up everything I can in this class. I am surrounded by some of the most successful people I've ever met and Peterbilt has provided us with more resources than a lot of dealership mechanics get. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to become an excellent diesel technician and I plan on using it for everything it's worth. When people ask me what I'm learning, I tell them "Anything and everything they will teach me."
I'm also a fan of using (in my case) Kragen lifetime brake pads. A family member is on their second set of them on a Toyota P/U with no complaints. I just put a set on my Corolla and I think they were less than $30. This is the first time I've used them on something of mine (I normally use OEM Toyota parts) so we'll see how they hold-up.
BTW Drove about 100 miles today (mostly highway) and can report that the shimmy is gone
Kevin
BTW Drove about 100 miles today (mostly highway) and can report that the shimmy is gone
Kevin
I'm also a fan of using (in my case) Kragen lifetime brake pads. A family member is on their second set of them on a Toyota P/U with no complaints. I just put a set on my Corolla and I think they were less than $30. This is the first time I've used them on something of mine (I normally use OEM Toyota parts) so we'll see how they hold-up.
BTW Drove about 100 miles today (mostly highway) and can report that the shimmy is gone
Kevin
BTW Drove about 100 miles today (mostly highway) and can report that the shimmy is gone
Kevin
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Ceramic pads are standard on 10th Gen Corollas, and I prefer to replace pads with the same tech.
Do a google image search on rotor cracks. They are quite common, and more common on drilled and/or slotted rotors. Go ahead and use them if you like, but I would make careful inspection part of the regular maintenance routine, perhaps with every tire rotation and oil change.
Do a google image search on rotor cracks. They are quite common, and more common on drilled and/or slotted rotors. Go ahead and use them if you like, but I would make careful inspection part of the regular maintenance routine, perhaps with every tire rotation and oil change.
I don't see cracks on slotted rotors unless they get beat to hell and back. The slots help keep the rotors cool, which is what causes cracking in the first place.
Cross drilled rotors crack easily because you have little metal in between each hole, and that is their weak spot. Cross drilled rotors shave the pad so that you always have fresh pad hitting the rotor (no glazing is allowed to build up). Cross-drilled rotors are strictly for racing duty, as even a few emergency stops can cause cracking.
If slotted rotors crack, it is because they are being beat up like crazy, but a normal driver will see an improvement in braking and a lower chance of warping.
Speaking of, the "warping" isn't so much a metal warp as much as it is the material of the pad sintering into the rotor. This happens when the brakes get extremely hot (during a heavy 80 to 0 stop), and then the brakes are held in place for a few minutes.
The best thing to prevent warping, is to never hold the brakes continuously for more than three seconds (unless you absolutely have to), and then stop about 10 feet sooner than you normally would, and slowly creep up while the brakes cool off. This prevents the pad material from sintering.
Cross drilled rotors crack easily because you have little metal in between each hole, and that is their weak spot. Cross drilled rotors shave the pad so that you always have fresh pad hitting the rotor (no glazing is allowed to build up). Cross-drilled rotors are strictly for racing duty, as even a few emergency stops can cause cracking.
If slotted rotors crack, it is because they are being beat up like crazy, but a normal driver will see an improvement in braking and a lower chance of warping.
Speaking of, the "warping" isn't so much a metal warp as much as it is the material of the pad sintering into the rotor. This happens when the brakes get extremely hot (during a heavy 80 to 0 stop), and then the brakes are held in place for a few minutes.
The best thing to prevent warping, is to never hold the brakes continuously for more than three seconds (unless you absolutely have to), and then stop about 10 feet sooner than you normally would, and slowly creep up while the brakes cool off. This prevents the pad material from sintering.
I don't know about all this negativity concerning rotors with holes and "dimples." Motorcycle manufactures have been drilling and slotting the hell out of rotors for a long time. They work great on bikes with more horsepower and speed than some cars. Motorcycle brakes get a real workout.
As long as the rotor is designed well and manufactured out of quality steel, I see only benefits for ventilated brake rotors on performance cars.
As long as the rotor is designed well and manufactured out of quality steel, I see only benefits for ventilated brake rotors on performance cars.