LED fog lights/reverse/trunk light
- Thread starter shah23
- Start date
Sorry to hear about your misfortune with the Jdmastar leds. I've run them in my 2004 Corolla in the back... brake tail turns reverse for over a year with no issues. All the bulbs got a nightly workout as I drive pizza.
My 2015 s is using their extremely bright px Amber led in the front and rear turn sigs. I felt they were too whitish so I toned them down a little with 3m Amber lens tape and now they are a decent yellow Amber color inside the reflector cavity but still bright out the projector tip. No problems so far (4 wks) with any heat buildup and these also get a nightly workout as I run my flashers at nearly every stop. I initially tried a set of their Switchbacks but they didn't function right so I returned them.
Would like to comment on this thread a couple of things come to mind. Someone asked how hard is it to install the front load resistors on the turns? It is harder than the rears as you have less space to work with. I prefer soldering and I have done all four corners on my 2015 s. The challenge is the factory harness is cut precisely just long enough to go from its anchor point to the socket. There isn't much slack wiring that you can stretch up onto the radiator bulkhead to facilitate easy modification.
Regarding load resistors...the standard value is 6.00 - 6.25 ohms. The power dissipation is generally 25 watts or W to match the oem filament bulb. I run these 25W in 4 vehicles with no problems. If you like everything heavy duty, then get the 50 watt resistors. They will still dissipate 25 watts since that is the circuit draw. Ultimately they might last longer since they are a beefier package that will run a little cooler and excessive heat kills all things electronic.
Also wanted to mention... Once you install led turn sig bulbs and the associated load resistors, you really should not revert back to running a filament bulb due to a led failure unless you disable the load resistor. If you forget to do this, long term it can stress the wire harness as you are pulling twice the current to the bulb socket and it was not originally designed to do this. 25 watts is going to the resistor and another 21-28 watts is also going to the bulb depending on vehicle/bulb size. A week or so probably sn't a big deal while you order/wait for a replacement led, but I wouldn't do it for months. It may also damage your flasher unit sooner rather than later.
My 2015 s is using their extremely bright px Amber led in the front and rear turn sigs. I felt they were too whitish so I toned them down a little with 3m Amber lens tape and now they are a decent yellow Amber color inside the reflector cavity but still bright out the projector tip. No problems so far (4 wks) with any heat buildup and these also get a nightly workout as I run my flashers at nearly every stop. I initially tried a set of their Switchbacks but they didn't function right so I returned them.
Would like to comment on this thread a couple of things come to mind. Someone asked how hard is it to install the front load resistors on the turns? It is harder than the rears as you have less space to work with. I prefer soldering and I have done all four corners on my 2015 s. The challenge is the factory harness is cut precisely just long enough to go from its anchor point to the socket. There isn't much slack wiring that you can stretch up onto the radiator bulkhead to facilitate easy modification.
Regarding load resistors...the standard value is 6.00 - 6.25 ohms. The power dissipation is generally 25 watts or W to match the oem filament bulb. I run these 25W in 4 vehicles with no problems. If you like everything heavy duty, then get the 50 watt resistors. They will still dissipate 25 watts since that is the circuit draw. Ultimately they might last longer since they are a beefier package that will run a little cooler and excessive heat kills all things electronic.
Also wanted to mention... Once you install led turn sig bulbs and the associated load resistors, you really should not revert back to running a filament bulb due to a led failure unless you disable the load resistor. If you forget to do this, long term it can stress the wire harness as you are pulling twice the current to the bulb socket and it was not originally designed to do this. 25 watts is going to the resistor and another 21-28 watts is also going to the bulb depending on vehicle/bulb size. A week or so probably sn't a big deal while you order/wait for a replacement led, but I wouldn't do it for months. It may also damage your flasher unit sooner rather than later.