Clutch Replacement Recommendations

[livevil904]

Hello-

I am actually posting this for my dad. He has a 2007 Pontiac Vibe (same engine and tranny as the corolla and matrix) with a clutch on its last legs. The car has about 110k miles on it (original clutch). He is looking for a clutch that will last a very long time and still have a smooth engagement. He is okay with a moderate increase in pedal pressure.

These are what we've been looking at: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1433711,parttype,1993

but any other recommendations are welcome as well.


On an unrelated note, I have a 1996 geo prizm with the 1.6L 4afe and the 3sp auto. Hate the tranny (or really just the lack of a 5sp, or even a 4sp auto), but I can't complain too much about a car with 230k miles and no problems.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

I believe the AC Delco is OEM.

Not sure about Valeo, AMS, or Luk.

I hear Sachs are decent but not sure how long they will last.

Performance clutches, like RAM and Centerforce (and I only see Centerforce on summitracing.com), will take abuse harder, but on a price stand-point, I'm not actually sure if how long they last will outweight the added cost ... of course ... this is assuming that you are changing the clutch yourself or he is doing it himself.

If you're taking it to a shop, it may be worth it to ask around, but chances are if a shop is doing it, best off getting OEM. Maybe someone on here has a Centerforce and they can chime in, or maybe you can search other forums for Centerforce users.

Does he rev-match when he downshifts? Does he feather the clutch for a while when taking off from a stop? Live on a really hilly area? Rarely do freeway driving? Those are other factors that can change the lifespan on a clutch that maybe a route adjustment or habit change can help with. 110k is early for me, but I do mostly freeway driving.

 

[livevil904]

Thank you for your response.

He is having a shop do it, clutch jobs on FWD's are a pain.

My dad is very easy on clutches, my mom is okay. Probably the main reason that it wore out a bit prematurely is because both my sister and I learned to drive stick in that car... hahahahaha. We live on a hill, though I don't really see how that would affect clutch life. Most of our driving is hwy.

I figure OEM would not be a bad choice, but my family likes to drive our cars to their death and so it'd be nice if this clutch out lived the engine.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

Won't happen. Clutches wear and tear the same way brake pads do.

Going uphill is harder on the clutch than going downhill because you have to feather the clutch and use more throttle to get going.

And yeah, learning to drive on it didn't help, LOL. But it depends on whether you stalled it (which doesn't do much) or roasted it (which is bad).

 

[livevil904]

It could happen. How long is the engine expected to last would you say?

Starting out going uphill is harder on clutches, but just going up them with it already engaged isn't going to be harder on it. We don't live in a hill area that requires many hill starts.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

Those engines are pretty bullet proof. Probably hit well over 300,000 when properly maintained.

 

[Scott O'Kashan]

Since the original Toyota clutch has performed so well for so long, how about just sticking with the Toyota clutch?

 

[livevil904]

Because there is possibly a replacement that is superior. Toyota picked a clutch supplier that could offer a clutch that would be reliable, easy to drive (low pedal pressure), and cheap. We're willing to sacrifice two of those.

I've heard good things about kevlar clutches, anyone have experience with one?

 

[IFMJohn]

Kevlar clutches, just like kevlar brake pads, are going to last longer than standard clutches or brake pads. They have very high heat ranges (they can get very hot before being damaged) and a very high coefficient of friction when compared to other friction materials that are commonly used for clutches and brakes.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coefficient_of_friction#Coefficient_of_friction

 

[livevil904]

Is there any down side to a kevlar clutch? Like is it more grabby?

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

I haven't used Kevlar clutches, but if they are anything similar to Kevlar brake pads, then they may have a tendency to launch a little more aggressively once warm (when Kevlar is cold it doesn't bite as hard).

Probably wouldn't notice it unless you were stuck in stop-and-go traffic.

The one thing you will notice is that Kevlar clutch kits typically come with pressure plates that will increase pedal effort for the sake of stronger grip. But you said that isn't a problem from the get-go so it should be fine.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

If you do go with a clutch kit that has more gripping force, I'd also check the condition of the clutch-slave cylinder to make sure it is fine (as well as replacing the throw-out bearing since everything will already be apart and those are about $50).

The good thing about those engines is the clutch-slave cylinder is really easy to replace with everything on the car, so if it does start to leak, it's two bolts and the nut for the fluid line, and that's it.

 

[OtownRolla]

Also replacing my clutch

I had posted and got a great response but i stumbled on this. Kevlar clutch? is this even an option for the corolla? what would the price difference be?

P.S. Thanks for all of the help I've gotten on this forum guys i really appreciate it

*edit*
just realized my browser wasn't showing me the whole thread i'll reread

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

Centerforce has a Kevlar clutch ... I think. You're looking at about double the cost of the OEM clutch, but if you drive spirited, you won't regret it.

 

[Scott O'Kashan]

livevil904 - So how did the clutch replacement job go? Do you have an update for everyone to share the knowledge with everyone in the forum?

 

[livevil904]

We've yet to do it, the OEM clutch is still holding on for it's last little bit of life.