best oil type
- Thread starter ali hannon
- Start date
AMSOIL is the pioneering leader in the synthetic oil industry, formulating the worlds first 100% synthetic API qualified motor oil in the world way back in 1972.
My website is - www.HiTechOil.com
My website is - www.HiTechOil.com
Scott.
Why not send me a Case free of charge. And I will do it in my next oil changes. I'll video it as well. I bemorethan happy to place your ad in the video.
Flash.. Lol I plead the 5th of July on this one
Why not send me a Case free of charge. And I will do it in my next oil changes. I'll video it as well. I bemorethan happy to place your ad in the video.
Flash.. Lol I plead the 5th of July on this one
fishycomics: How did you know? 
But Scott... We are right now 2016 and not 1972.
Amsoil oil better than Toyota genuine oil?
But Scott... We are right now 2016 and not 1972.
Amsoil oil better than Toyota genuine oil?
The Blend Is again noted in the book, you are not forced to use OW-20, SAE20, it is highly recommended We are not subject to use the Blends that Toyota mentioned. If you ride in the coldest/hottest climates. then you may have to think about the Oil weights. Since again the two suggested types of fluid for the 2013 corolla S if that is your model (refer to your owners manual)will Be OW-20 on the cap or (from memory) 5W-30 SAE30
Proper viscosity is the single most important characteristic of a lubricant.
If the viscosity is too low or too high insufficient lubrication or metal to metal contact can occur.
Lubrication is much like hydroplaning on a wet road. If the car is moving at a high velocity complete separation of the tire from pavement is more likely to occur. If the vehicle is barely moving then hydroplaning is less likely to occur.
In lubrication this is known as full film lubrication, where the parts are completely separated. There is hydrodynamic lubrication (requires motion) and hydrostatic (separated by pressure)
If the oil film is less than the microscopic surface irregularities this is known as partial film, or boundary layer lubrication. Additives such as ZDDP are used to prevent wear during startup or anytime full film lubrication is insufficient.
So the manufacturer bases their recommendation on the surface asperities, loads, velocities, clearances etc etc.
In addition, automotive lubricants can be as much as 60-70% additives to combat oxidation, viscosity shear down, etc etc etc...
So, back to the question.... first and foremost use the viscosity the manufacturer recommends. Beyond that it becomes more of a personal choice based on Viscosity index, desired oil change intervals, brand loyalty etc.
For my 2011 Corolla, I prefer 7,500 mile changes with Toyota's synthetic 0w-20 with AMSOIL's 20um oil filter and a good quality (gold plug brand) magnetic drain plug to catch the ferrous naughty bits smaller than 20um.
just my 2 cents
If the viscosity is too low or too high insufficient lubrication or metal to metal contact can occur.
Lubrication is much like hydroplaning on a wet road. If the car is moving at a high velocity complete separation of the tire from pavement is more likely to occur. If the vehicle is barely moving then hydroplaning is less likely to occur.
In lubrication this is known as full film lubrication, where the parts are completely separated. There is hydrodynamic lubrication (requires motion) and hydrostatic (separated by pressure)
If the oil film is less than the microscopic surface irregularities this is known as partial film, or boundary layer lubrication. Additives such as ZDDP are used to prevent wear during startup or anytime full film lubrication is insufficient.
So the manufacturer bases their recommendation on the surface asperities, loads, velocities, clearances etc etc.
In addition, automotive lubricants can be as much as 60-70% additives to combat oxidation, viscosity shear down, etc etc etc...
So, back to the question.... first and foremost use the viscosity the manufacturer recommends. Beyond that it becomes more of a personal choice based on Viscosity index, desired oil change intervals, brand loyalty etc.
For my 2011 Corolla, I prefer 7,500 mile changes with Toyota's synthetic 0w-20 with AMSOIL's 20um oil filter and a good quality (gold plug brand) magnetic drain plug to catch the ferrous naughty bits smaller than 20um.
just my 2 cents
fishycomics: How did you know?
But Scott... We are right now 2016 and not 1972.
Amsoil oil better than Toyota genuine oil?
But Scott... We are right now 2016 and not 1972.
Amsoil oil better than Toyota genuine oil?
Yes, it is, much better. No comparison. Whatch the video. When you want the best and save money at the same time, you go AMSOIL.
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Scott luv ya man!
Flash, Lol
just some vids of oil changing not sure if anyone posted Amsoil grades of oil etc.. a lot of thanks etc...
Rock paper scissors
Stay tuned for for an oil change today.
if I ask 1 or a thousand people wat is the best oil to use....
or if I asked would you put Amsoil vs your brand
what do you think they say?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cR_81rWgqeQ
Flash, Lol
just some vids of oil changing not sure if anyone posted Amsoil grades of oil etc.. a lot of thanks etc...
Rock paper scissors
Stay tuned for for an oil change today.
if I ask 1 or a thousand people wat is the best oil to use....
or if I asked would you put Amsoil vs your brand
what do you think they say?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cR_81rWgqeQ
I would advise caution when comparing oil filters.... many companies wont advertise their efficiency or beta ratings.
And those that do sometimes refer back to a specific filter application
likewise, when dealing with Synthetic blends there is no standard as to how much synthetic must be used to call a blend a blend...
1% or 50%... who knows
Be especially cautious around filters that promise "long life"
To increase a filter's life manufacturers have very few options without risking the filter inducing a bypass condition.
1. Increase surface area (limited by physical size)
2. Increase porosity (actual number)
3. Increase the pore size (ouch.... lets just not catch as much)
Just as a comparison, look at the micron ratings of these two filters:
Bosch's DistancePlus oil filter:
"*Based on ISO 4548-12 at 40 microns on D3500 **Compared to conventional filters"
Bosch's Premium Oil filter:
"*Based on ISO 4548-12 at 20 microns on 3500"
(both numbers are published on Bosch's website, I'm too new of a member to post links)
Just for ref: Typical human hair is 70-100um
Just an FYI, Mobil 1, K&N, Wix and some others will not provide this info even if you call their tech line requesting it.
Bosh, Purolator, and yes Amsoil will.
Oil and filter changes serve many purposes, two of which is to remove contamination and moisture.
At the end of the day, the best oil is one that is the correct viscosity that meets the standards set by the manufacturer and is changed prior to viscosity breakdown, additive depletion, contamination/moisture build up, or oxidation.
When you start a car on a cold morning you probably noticed steam coming from the tailpipe.
Condensation also forms inside the engine. Just 1% entrained water can form harmful byproducts and reduce ball bearing life by almost 50%
Just because a lubricant or filter says it can last 10K miles or more, doesn't mean its a good idea in the real world.
And those that do sometimes refer back to a specific filter application
likewise, when dealing with Synthetic blends there is no standard as to how much synthetic must be used to call a blend a blend...
1% or 50%... who knows
Be especially cautious around filters that promise "long life"
To increase a filter's life manufacturers have very few options without risking the filter inducing a bypass condition.
1. Increase surface area (limited by physical size)
2. Increase porosity (actual number)
3. Increase the pore size (ouch.... lets just not catch as much)
Just as a comparison, look at the micron ratings of these two filters:
Bosch's DistancePlus oil filter:
"*Based on ISO 4548-12 at 40 microns on D3500 **Compared to conventional filters"
Bosch's Premium Oil filter:
"*Based on ISO 4548-12 at 20 microns on 3500"
(both numbers are published on Bosch's website, I'm too new of a member to post links)
Just for ref: Typical human hair is 70-100um
Just an FYI, Mobil 1, K&N, Wix and some others will not provide this info even if you call their tech line requesting it.
Bosh, Purolator, and yes Amsoil will.
Oil and filter changes serve many purposes, two of which is to remove contamination and moisture.
At the end of the day, the best oil is one that is the correct viscosity that meets the standards set by the manufacturer and is changed prior to viscosity breakdown, additive depletion, contamination/moisture build up, or oxidation.
When you start a car on a cold morning you probably noticed steam coming from the tailpipe.
Condensation also forms inside the engine. Just 1% entrained water can form harmful byproducts and reduce ball bearing life by almost 50%
Just because a lubricant or filter says it can last 10K miles or more, doesn't mean its a good idea in the real world.
forgot to add....
If the person has not maintained their engine well, not kept up with oil and filter changes, etc.... then one day decides to put "good" filter on it, this can lead to premature filter bypass.
Don't put a good filter on a dirty engine, and if you do... expect to change it sooner than normal.
If the person has not maintained their engine well, not kept up with oil and filter changes, etc.... then one day decides to put "good" filter on it, this can lead to premature filter bypass.
Don't put a good filter on a dirty engine, and if you do... expect to change it sooner than normal.
I can find easily Beautiful graphs and charts about synthetic Oil but no even 1 practical/physical longterm test/experiment such: 1 engine with synthetic Oil and other 1 with Conventional oil.
I found only one ridiculous animated drawing of "first synthetic" oil [btw. the first synthetic motor was Mobile1]:
But not even one real life engine, with truthful, in depended measurements, with simple and cheap tools like caliper and micrometer.
So everybody talk, but no even one real life example.
Which will state: "After 50000 km (30000 Miles) there was 0.1 micron of grinding on Camshaft compare to engine which use Conventional"
- Nothing like this.
But instead of... you can find full of talks like: "Better," "Special", "Stronger" etc and nobody talks rational... with numbers and pure experiment facts.
The only fact that I found regarding synthetic Oil is that indeed more "liquid" in temperature bellow -20C (-4F) thus give more easy start but nothing about how its effect on long run.
Like I saw on one of the forum signatures:
"Synthetic" is a marketing term, not a scientifically significant definition.
I found only one ridiculous animated drawing of "first synthetic" oil [btw. the first synthetic motor was Mobile1]:
But not even one real life engine, with truthful, in depended measurements, with simple and cheap tools like caliper and micrometer.
So everybody talk, but no even one real life example.
Which will state: "After 50000 km (30000 Miles) there was 0.1 micron of grinding on Camshaft compare to engine which use Conventional"
- Nothing like this.
But instead of... you can find full of talks like: "Better," "Special", "Stronger" etc and nobody talks rational... with numbers and pure experiment facts.
The only fact that I found regarding synthetic Oil is that indeed more "liquid" in temperature bellow -20C (-4F) thus give more easy start but nothing about how its effect on long run.
Like I saw on one of the forum signatures:
"Synthetic" is a marketing term, not a scientifically significant definition.
Fish, why you don't trust on Genuine Toyota oil?
Price is a same as your Castrol Edge (or even cheaper).
My rationality behind using Genuine Toyota oil is:
1) Price (Too good to be true )
2) Toyota proudly announces: 81% of Toyota still on the road which have been produced 18 years ago!
And I think they still want this legacy.
P.S.
Even parts are cheaper, for example:
Rear Strut: Genuine 101 CAD but After market NAPA (Yes, NAPA and not NASA ) 160 CAD.
I thought about why Toyota not over priced Genuine parts and I concluded because of number 2.
Because imagine, I will put "cheaper" NAPA strut then I will sell this car, and new owner will break this strut... Who will be bad? NAPA? No! Of course he will blame the "lame" Toyota manufacturer!!!
They want keep about their legacy of number 2 above.
And I trust on their legacy.
Price is a same as your Castrol Edge (or even cheaper).
My rationality behind using Genuine Toyota oil is:
1) Price (Too good to be true
)2) Toyota proudly announces: 81% of Toyota still on the road which have been produced 18 years ago!
And I think they still want this legacy.
P.S.
Even parts are cheaper, for example:
Rear Strut: Genuine 101 CAD but After market NAPA (Yes, NAPA and not NASA
) 160 CAD.I thought about why Toyota not over priced Genuine parts and I concluded because of number 2.
Because imagine, I will put "cheaper" NAPA strut then I will sell this car, and new owner will break this strut... Who will be bad? NAPA? No! Of course he will blame the "lame" Toyota manufacturer!!!
They want keep about their legacy of number 2 above.
And I trust on their legacy.
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I found it much easier to walk into a local store to get my oil. when in a Honda shop, each day the price changed, never a set price. Brakes for example used to be 35.00, they 2.5X the price now where i still can go online and get the brakes 2x less. and is a toyot dealer .. I just gotten used to getting one oil, that is the reason.
My 2009 Corolla S had 109k on it when I bought it three years back. I love the 5-speed. The next city over has a local store that runs frequent sales of the Kendall, (Conoco-Phillips) synthetic blend 5w20, and 0w20 at $2.49/quart, recently $2.19/quart. They also have the full synthetic version of the 0w20 at $4.99/quart.
I now have 133k on the car. The full synthetic seems to use/burn a bit, but gives 3 mpg better fuel economy. Haven't used the 0w20 blend yet, but if the mpg is consistent with the full synthetic, that will be my go-to choice.
Why are so many people paying $7-10/quart?
I now have 133k on the car. The full synthetic seems to use/burn a bit, but gives 3 mpg better fuel economy. Haven't used the 0w20 blend yet, but if the mpg is consistent with the full synthetic, that will be my go-to choice.
Why are so many people paying $7-10/quart?
Personally, I get about 250-300k out of one before I put them out to pasture.. and then its yet to be due to engine issues.
My truck was featured on Mobil 1's website once at 250K a couple years ago, It still doesn't need any oil added between changes (7,500 miles), spark plugs still come out nice and tan and it's yet to have a valve cover off.
Good read: http://link.springer.com/content/pdf/10.1007/s40544-016-0107-9.pdf
Article mentions some of Toyotas innovations into their oil's additive packages
My truck was featured on Mobil 1's website once at 250K a couple years ago, It still doesn't need any oil added between changes (7,500 miles), spark plugs still come out nice and tan and it's yet to have a valve cover off.
Good read: http://link.springer.com/content/pdf/10.1007/s40544-016-0107-9.pdf
Article mentions some of Toyotas innovations into their oil's additive packages
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TBH I never used it, or anyone I know personally, I seen Mobile One at the Stations, remembering the days the Attendant asked, pop your hood we'll check your Oil, and they said you can use a quart of Mobile 1. Now seeing it at the Stores, I still do not use it? Like Toyota oil can only get at the dealer, and thinking if its a dealers product, it has to be better than the rest, same goes for Mobile, Amsoil, or any other brand that can not be gotten in public. Mobile One must be good, it's been around, just again something I do not use and stuck with Catoil most my driving time.
Fish
Fish
I have used mobil1 for years and can find it at the local walmart etc....
I think its a very good oil, and I still use their high milage 5w-30 in my truck due to the higher levels of ZDDP.
Used to be Mobil1 was PAO based until castrol started hydrocracking mineral based and calling it synthetic.
Well this led to a court battle and basically, in the USA oil producers can now call group3 mineral based oils a synthethic that dont meet the legal description used in most other countries of the world.
Since mobil1 no longer claims they are PAO based one has to assume they have joined castrol and many others in the USA and are now group 3 hydrocracked which is actually a chemically modified mineral based oil that looks and performs like a synthetic.
(and per the court case can now be called a synthetic)
There are advantages to each process, some additives struggle with PAO
Back to the question, as long as it is GF5 rated and changed when needs changed, you will get good performance.
I prefer Toyota 0w-20 in part due to it's very high viscosity index of 216, which is greater than most competitors. In other words, it maintains its viscosity better regardless of temperature change than an oil with a lower VI.
Whatever you choose, be careful of marketing claims. Even Amsoil's 25,000 mile oil change has the caveat of a minimum of a 16 mile drive with each start up. (Enough time to cook off any moisture, Moisture increases acidity, oxidation, additive depletion etc)
Regardless of brand - short trips, towing, infrequent driving - more frequent oil changes
I think its a very good oil, and I still use their high milage 5w-30 in my truck due to the higher levels of ZDDP.
Used to be Mobil1 was PAO based until castrol started hydrocracking mineral based and calling it synthetic.
Well this led to a court battle and basically, in the USA oil producers can now call group3 mineral based oils a synthethic that dont meet the legal description used in most other countries of the world.
Since mobil1 no longer claims they are PAO based one has to assume they have joined castrol and many others in the USA and are now group 3 hydrocracked which is actually a chemically modified mineral based oil that looks and performs like a synthetic.
(and per the court case can now be called a synthetic)
There are advantages to each process, some additives struggle with PAO
Back to the question, as long as it is GF5 rated and changed when needs changed, you will get good performance.
I prefer Toyota 0w-20 in part due to it's very high viscosity index of 216, which is greater than most competitors. In other words, it maintains its viscosity better regardless of temperature change than an oil with a lower VI.
Whatever you choose, be careful of marketing claims. Even Amsoil's 25,000 mile oil change has the caveat of a minimum of a 16 mile drive with each start up. (Enough time to cook off any moisture, Moisture increases acidity, oxidation, additive depletion etc)
Regardless of brand - short trips, towing, infrequent driving - more frequent oil changes
Car and Driver Magazine
November 2000
Synthetic Motor Oil Gets All New Semantics
No sprint-car driver in history comes close to matching Steve Synthetic motor oil gets all new semantics.
Now that the meaning of "is" has gotten so slippery you need to grab it with both hands, we'd better keep an eye on longer words, too.
One's already gone squirmy on us -- "synthetic," as in synthetic motor oil.
Most guys know two things about synthetic oils. First, the price is three to four times that of conventional oils. Second, they're not real oil, not made from crude.
News flash: Scratch that second part. Now motor oils derived from crude may be labeled "synthetic." But they still cost over four bucks a quart.
Bait and switch? That's the obvious conclusion. Except in this case the advertising ethics people have given their approval.
Here's what happened, according to a detailed account published in the trade magazine Lubricants World. Late in 1997, Castrol changed the formula of its Syntec "full synthetic motor oil," eliminating the polyalphaolefin (PAO) base stock (that's the "synthetic" part, which makes up about 70 percent by volume of what's in the bottle) and replacing it with a "hydroisomerized" petroleum base stock.
Mobil Oil Corporation, maker of Mobil 1, "World's Leading Synthetic Motor Oil," said no fair and took its complaint to the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureaus. NAD often arbitrates between feuding advertisers on their conflicting claims.
The notion behind synthetic motor oils as we've known them is an elegant one. Instead of relying on the cocktail of hydrocarbons contained in crude oil, why not go into the laboratory and build the perfect base stock from scratch, molecule by molecule? The synthesizing of PAO starts with ethylene gas, a simple two-carbon molecule, and builds till it gets 10-carbon molecules, then combines three of those to form PAO. The result is a fluid more stable than the usual base oils derived from crude. It keeps flowing at low temperatures. It's more resistant to boiling off, and more resistant to oxidation, which causes thickening with prolonged exposure to high temperatures.
Still, there's more than one road to the point B of improved stability. Petroleum refiners in recent years have learned how to break apart certain undesirable molecules -- wax, for example, which causes thickening at low temperatures -- and transform them by chemical reaction into helpful molecules. These new hydroisomerized base oils, in the view of some industry participants, "provided properties similar to PAOs but cost only half as much," Lubricants World reported.
The argument before NAD tiptoed around the obvious -- does the consumer get four bucks' worth of value from each quart of synthetic oil? -- and plunged straight into deep semantics. Mobil's experts said "synthetic" traditionally meant big molecules built up from small ones. Castrol's side held out for a looser description, defining "synthetic" as "the product of an intended chemical reaction."
What do unbiased sources say? It turns out that the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and the American Petroleum Institute (API) both have technical standards covering motor oils, and both of these organizations in the '90s backed away from their old definitions of "synthetic," leaving lots of room for new interpretations.
In the end, NAD decided that the evidence "constitutes a reasonable basis for the claim that Castrol Syntec, as currently formulated, is a synthetic motor oil," said Lubricants World.
The obvious question now: Has the term "synthetic motor oil" been opened up to the point that it no longer means anything? Maybe. But here's a better question: Did synthetic ever mean what we thought it meant?
"Great oil" is what most guys think it means. "At that price, it's gotta be great stuff!"
Okay, but how great? Your car's manual tells what motor oil you should use, and with few exceptions, that description will consist of only two specifications. One is for viscosity, such as 10W-30; and another is for the API service grade, SJ being the current one for gasoline passenger cars.
The buck-a-quart multigrades meet these standards, as do the synthetics.
The synthetics, on the back label, claim compliance with more standards, but even if you know what they mean, they seem beside the point for U.S. passenger cars. For example, should you care about diesels if you drive a gasoline burner? API service CF is the oldest of the current specs for light-duty diesels; some synthetics list that one. Synthetics may also list ACEA A1 and B1, which are European specs roughly equivalent to API gasoline and diesel specs. The Europeans grade their oils by levels of performance, so that A2 and A3 are tougher specs than A1. Same for diesels. Usually, the date of the spec is omitted, but A1-98 is newer than A1-96.
Completely absent is the one performance claim that would have real meaning for all of us -- some indication of longer oil life. But automakers hold synthetics to the same change intervals as conventional oils. And the oil companies, if anything, promise even less. "To give added protection and life to your engine, change your oil every 3000 miles." This same language appears on the back of both Pennzoil Synthetic and Pennzoil conventional oils. Valvoline synthetic makes a similar recommendation.
Synthetics do get one unambiguous endorsement: Corvettes, Porsches, Vipers, and all AMG models from Mercedes-Benz come with Mobil 1 as the factory fill.
Most synthetics mention GM 4718M in their list of claims; that's the unique spec created by General Motors for Corvette oil. It's a high-temperature requirement that tolerates less oxidation (thickening) and volatility (boil-off) on a standard engine test called Sequence IIIE, according to engineer Bob Olree of GM Powertrain.
But don't expect to learn such details on any label. Mobil 1 at least uses straightforward declarative sentences. Most of the others read as though they were written by a lawyer looking for an escape clause. Why else would the following claim be so rubbery? "Pennzoil Synthetic motor oil is recommended for use in all engines requiring ILSAC GF-1, GF-2, API SJ, SH, or SG, and in engines requiring oils meeting GM 4718M." Okay, but does it actually pass those standards?
"Yes," says James Newsom, Pennzoil's motor-oil product manager.
Castrol Syntec, on its label, "exceeds" every standard it mentions. Hmm. Now that the meaning of "is" is in play, I have to wonder, does Syntec meet those standards as well?
"It does," says Castrol's Juli Anne Oberg. While I have her on the phone, I ask if there will be a Syntec price reduction now that a lower-cost base stock has been substituted for the old synthetic. She says no.
November 2000
Synthetic Motor Oil Gets All New Semantics
No sprint-car driver in history comes close to matching Steve Synthetic motor oil gets all new semantics.
Now that the meaning of "is" has gotten so slippery you need to grab it with both hands, we'd better keep an eye on longer words, too.
One's already gone squirmy on us -- "synthetic," as in synthetic motor oil.
Most guys know two things about synthetic oils. First, the price is three to four times that of conventional oils. Second, they're not real oil, not made from crude.
News flash: Scratch that second part. Now motor oils derived from crude may be labeled "synthetic." But they still cost over four bucks a quart.
Bait and switch? That's the obvious conclusion. Except in this case the advertising ethics people have given their approval.
Here's what happened, according to a detailed account published in the trade magazine Lubricants World. Late in 1997, Castrol changed the formula of its Syntec "full synthetic motor oil," eliminating the polyalphaolefin (PAO) base stock (that's the "synthetic" part, which makes up about 70 percent by volume of what's in the bottle) and replacing it with a "hydroisomerized" petroleum base stock.
Mobil Oil Corporation, maker of Mobil 1, "World's Leading Synthetic Motor Oil," said no fair and took its complaint to the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureaus. NAD often arbitrates between feuding advertisers on their conflicting claims.
The notion behind synthetic motor oils as we've known them is an elegant one. Instead of relying on the cocktail of hydrocarbons contained in crude oil, why not go into the laboratory and build the perfect base stock from scratch, molecule by molecule? The synthesizing of PAO starts with ethylene gas, a simple two-carbon molecule, and builds till it gets 10-carbon molecules, then combines three of those to form PAO. The result is a fluid more stable than the usual base oils derived from crude. It keeps flowing at low temperatures. It's more resistant to boiling off, and more resistant to oxidation, which causes thickening with prolonged exposure to high temperatures.
Still, there's more than one road to the point B of improved stability. Petroleum refiners in recent years have learned how to break apart certain undesirable molecules -- wax, for example, which causes thickening at low temperatures -- and transform them by chemical reaction into helpful molecules. These new hydroisomerized base oils, in the view of some industry participants, "provided properties similar to PAOs but cost only half as much," Lubricants World reported.
The argument before NAD tiptoed around the obvious -- does the consumer get four bucks' worth of value from each quart of synthetic oil? -- and plunged straight into deep semantics. Mobil's experts said "synthetic" traditionally meant big molecules built up from small ones. Castrol's side held out for a looser description, defining "synthetic" as "the product of an intended chemical reaction."
What do unbiased sources say? It turns out that the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) and the American Petroleum Institute (API) both have technical standards covering motor oils, and both of these organizations in the '90s backed away from their old definitions of "synthetic," leaving lots of room for new interpretations.
In the end, NAD decided that the evidence "constitutes a reasonable basis for the claim that Castrol Syntec, as currently formulated, is a synthetic motor oil," said Lubricants World.
The obvious question now: Has the term "synthetic motor oil" been opened up to the point that it no longer means anything? Maybe. But here's a better question: Did synthetic ever mean what we thought it meant?
"Great oil" is what most guys think it means. "At that price, it's gotta be great stuff!"
Okay, but how great? Your car's manual tells what motor oil you should use, and with few exceptions, that description will consist of only two specifications. One is for viscosity, such as 10W-30; and another is for the API service grade, SJ being the current one for gasoline passenger cars.
The buck-a-quart multigrades meet these standards, as do the synthetics.
The synthetics, on the back label, claim compliance with more standards, but even if you know what they mean, they seem beside the point for U.S. passenger cars. For example, should you care about diesels if you drive a gasoline burner? API service CF is the oldest of the current specs for light-duty diesels; some synthetics list that one. Synthetics may also list ACEA A1 and B1, which are European specs roughly equivalent to API gasoline and diesel specs. The Europeans grade their oils by levels of performance, so that A2 and A3 are tougher specs than A1. Same for diesels. Usually, the date of the spec is omitted, but A1-98 is newer than A1-96.
Completely absent is the one performance claim that would have real meaning for all of us -- some indication of longer oil life. But automakers hold synthetics to the same change intervals as conventional oils. And the oil companies, if anything, promise even less. "To give added protection and life to your engine, change your oil every 3000 miles." This same language appears on the back of both Pennzoil Synthetic and Pennzoil conventional oils. Valvoline synthetic makes a similar recommendation.
Synthetics do get one unambiguous endorsement: Corvettes, Porsches, Vipers, and all AMG models from Mercedes-Benz come with Mobil 1 as the factory fill.
Most synthetics mention GM 4718M in their list of claims; that's the unique spec created by General Motors for Corvette oil. It's a high-temperature requirement that tolerates less oxidation (thickening) and volatility (boil-off) on a standard engine test called Sequence IIIE, according to engineer Bob Olree of GM Powertrain.
But don't expect to learn such details on any label. Mobil 1 at least uses straightforward declarative sentences. Most of the others read as though they were written by a lawyer looking for an escape clause. Why else would the following claim be so rubbery? "Pennzoil Synthetic motor oil is recommended for use in all engines requiring ILSAC GF-1, GF-2, API SJ, SH, or SG, and in engines requiring oils meeting GM 4718M." Okay, but does it actually pass those standards?
"Yes," says James Newsom, Pennzoil's motor-oil product manager.
Castrol Syntec, on its label, "exceeds" every standard it mentions. Hmm. Now that the meaning of "is" is in play, I have to wonder, does Syntec meet those standards as well?
"It does," says Castrol's Juli Anne Oberg. While I have her on the phone, I ask if there will be a Syntec price reduction now that a lower-cost base stock has been substituted for the old synthetic. She says no.
I just changed my oil, and the smell of 5-20 oil is no where near the smell of OW-20. And when the oil came out no it did not smell burnt, smelled like it normally should, sweet. looking sweet to. back in the Nov 2000. that is like 16 years ago, a lot has changed, not my changing of oil Lol.
Ali... came and most likely got his answer and moved on....
Ali... came and most likely got his answer and moved on....
He knew because I'm a 30+ year independent AMSOIL synthetic lubricants Dealer and a long time contributor/Moderator to this great forum and when someone asks about vehicle lubricants, they have a resident expert.
Yes, it is, much better. No comparison. Whatch the video. When you want the best and save money at the same time, you go AMSOIL.
Yes, it is, much better. No comparison. Whatch the video. When you want the best and save money at the same time, you go AMSOIL.
When a person suggests using a certain product, while being "independent" seller of that same product, It looks like a conflict of interest to me.
I've used Mobil 1 for most of my cars for the last 35 years. It's always performed well for me on all my cars. I've had engines go 300k miles and more with no issues. Sometimes I'll pick up some Toyota 0w-20 synthetic oil when it's a great price at the dealer. I get 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 at Walmart for around $22-$25 so it's not very expensive. I change mine every 7500 miles now just to drain out any contaminants. I know that the oil may last longer but one of the most important things it does is clean the engine and gather contaminants. Getting them out of the engine is worth changing it a little more often.