Hitch installed!!
I ordered from RealTruck.com on Wednesday, and it was drop shipped from Curt arriving on Saturday.
Curt describes the install as "Challenging" but I could not find a local dealer who could do it for a couple of weeks so I tried it myself.
Curt's instructions are frugal and I did a bit more disassembly than I needed to. The actual install is difficult but I came up with a solution that made it easy without additional help. I used ramps to raise the rear of the vehicle.
1. You need to remove the back panel that holds the license plate. It is held in place with two screws and lots of barbed tabs which are released from the inside. Viewed from below, there are two plastic/fabric covers about the size of a 1 gallon water bottle, one on each rear corner of the vehicle It has a big plastic nut at the top (which is not removed) and three or four pop-out rivets holding it from below. With the right tool these rivets come out easily.
2. Push up the lower outside corner of this cover to reveal a screw which must be removed. Do the same on the other side.
3. There are lots of tabs on the panel to be removed, some of which can be seen from the inside. They are about 1" square and have a barb on them which can be pressed to release the tab. Many of these are located by feel only. There are two wiring harnesses at the top which are attached to two of the tabs, these have to be removed before the tabs are freed. These wiring harnesses are out of sight so it has to be freed by feel - use a screw driver to pop the harness out of the tab.
4. With all the tabs freed the license plate panel comes off to reveal an aluminum box structure which is the structural bumper. It need to be removed - there are four bolts on each side which take a 12mm socket on an 8" extension. There are a couple of tabs on the inside that need to be hammered flat.
5. Now comes the fun bit. The hitch receiver (30 lbs of it) is mounted against the vehicle and the bumper mechanism goes outside it. The bolt holes are 8" deep inside the cavity and not easy to get to. The receiver and the bumper have matching holes which have to align for the bolts to be inserted. After a frustrating hour I came up with a simple solution. I bought two 8mm x 70mm bolts threaded all the way to the top with matching nuts. I cut off the bolt head to give me a 8mm x 70mm stud and cut a screwdriver slot in the cut end. I cleaned up the threads so the nuts would thread over the cut end. I then screwed these studs into the top right and top left of the attachment points in the vehicle, saving the nuts for later.
6. I could now hang the hitch receiver on these studs and slip the bumper mechanism on top of it. Then a nut went over the stud and I set it thumb tight to hold everything in place. Now the holes are all in alignment ready for the bolts. I installed the remaining six bolts snug tight and used the screwdriver slot in the studs to remove them and install the remaining two bolts. Curt supplies high tensile bolts which replace the Toyota bolts. The Toyota bolts are a true 12mm and Curt says their bolts are 13mm. These bolts are installed on the end of a 8" socket extension and I found that a 1/2" socket is a nice snug fit for the Curt bolts and they will stay in the 1/2" socket which does not happen if you use a 13mm socket. Torque them all down to 23 ft/lbs and you're done.
7. The horizontal bar of the trailer hitch takes up a lot of space that used to be free. This means that those two wiring harnesses that connect into a tab from the removed panel are no longer accessible and you won't be able to re-connect them into their tabs. So before re-installing the panel I used some electrician's tape to secure these harnesses to the bumper mechanism and prevent vibration and chaffing.
8. Re-install the license plate panel with all its tabs and the screws on each side and re-install the pop rivet fasteners and job-done.
The install is really solid, Curt did a good job with this. If you use the hanger bolt trick, the install is quit manageable.