2014 Corolla Eibach Springs

#1
Got in contact with Eibach in CA regarding the springs # 82108.140. This is the conversation I had so far.

Me: "Hello, I have been wondering if there is an estimate on the release date for the 2014 Corolla S springs. I noticed that they have been in development for quite a bit. Is there any news regarding them? The model # is "82108.140."

Rep: "These are about to go into our first production run. ETA is 6-8 weeks to produce.

I asked what the drop level would be and they haven't replied yet. It does seem that they are designing new springs specific for our year. Will let you know when they reply about the drop level.
 

XEON

New Member
#2
Question the wight of the 9 gen is the same wight as the 11 gen?

some people are using 9 gen lowering spring.

If the spring is design for the 9 gen and IF 11 gen is heavier or lighter
wouldn't it mess up the handling?

:confused1:
 
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#3
That is a good question. She emailed me back stating that they will know more about the measurements as they get closer to the production.
 
#5
Eibach typically drops 1" - 1.5", with the Sportline series dropping 2" - 2.75"

Sportline WILL require a bump-steer kit and camber plates.

XEON, if the springs from the Gen 9 and Gen 11 don't have the same contact pattern, I wouldn't do it, as that is asking to damage the struts. If they have the same contact pattern and the weight is the same, then theoretically they should work fine.

There is a ratio of spring stiffness to weight that is used depending on if you want tight handling or ride comfort or something in-between. You could run softer springs on your '14 if you wanted to, gaining extra ride comfort, but increasing the possibility of bottoming out the suspension and reduced cornering ability. Harder springs do the opposite.

If anybody cuts springs like Scott suggests, they need to keep in mind that their maximum passenger load will be reduced by the factor (maximum cargo load) * (new spring travel length / old spring travel length), with the spring travel length measured as the distance from the car at normal attitude position to the suspension bottoming out. Otherwise you risk harsh bottom outs which can destroy the unibody chassis.

I saw a picture from a Honda Fit forum where the guy cut his springs and ran wheels way out of the parameters of the suspension and actually had welds fail on his shock tower, causing it to separate from the rest of the car, most likely due to harsh bottom outs.
 

XEON

New Member
#7
wow!

I agree cutting the spring is a vary bad thing to do. That is what you call a poor man lowering kit..
 
#8
If you know what you are doing, cutting springs is just fine, but you can't overload the car. I prefer to lower the ride and stiffen the springs to avoid bottoming out, and because I prefer having tight suspension. The bumps in the road don't bother me and I will happily sacrifice a smooth ride to be able to corner hard. Corners are where the fun is at!

Wish Eibach would release a sway-bar kit for the Corollas. Maybe if enough of us nag them, they can release front and rear sway-bar kits for our '14s
 

XEON

New Member
#10
ok now we spend over $19,000 and want to cut springs come
on now just buy the dam things being CHEAP at this point is CRAZY! :thumbdown:

For what it's worth WOW! :laughing: Just get coil over struts so you can dial it
even better. The right way!:thumbsup:
 
#11
Not at all. The original equipment coil springs have already settled and so the end result will be superior to aftermarket springs that haven't settled yet. The ride will also be superior to aftermarket lowering springs.

Read the book, "Performance Handling", by Herb Adams VSE, a respected suspension engineer. Herb Adams designed the high performance handling package for the Pontiac Trans Am. He doesn't use or recommend aftermarket lowering springs. Quite the opposite. Instead he cuts the original equipment coil springs for superior results, with both street cars and his 24 Hours of Daytona race cars. All his development cars, Camaro/Firebird, GM full size cars, Datsun Z cars, Corvette, Ford Thunderbird, Mustang, GM intermediates, Nova and Pontiac Fiero all handle wonderfully and much better than in their stock configurations, all without the unnecessary expense of lowering springs.

This is what Herb Adams has to say about lowering springs -

"Many of the other suspension part companies want to sell you new springs. Obviously, this is because they make a profit doing so. Unfortunately you don't need new springs, so we think this is a waste of your money. A few years ago these people were selling high-rate springs under the pretense that they improved handling. Now that the truth has come out, these companies now want to sell you springs to lower your car. Before you invest in springs to lower your car, you should be aware that your chances of success are much better if you simply cut your existing springs. All springs take a certain amount of permanent set after they are installed. (Note that new cars sitting in the showroom are higher than the same models with only a few thousand miles on them). This change in height is caused by the inevitable loss in load that any new spring experiences. If you put new springs on your car, they will settle as much as an inch within the first few months. Obviously, if your car was the correct height when you installed the new springs, it will be too low after a few months.
This is why we recommend you cut the existing springs and save the cost of new springs. The result will almost certainly be better. Your car's existing springs have already taken a permanent set, so you know where they will end up. If you want to lower your car, you can cut your existing springs and achieve the ride height you want with one operation. Some spring peddlers want you to trim the spring to height as required, (read the fine print). This means you might need to remove and cut the springs several times before you get the correct ride height -- or you might trim too far and have to buy another set of springs".
 
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