2009 Corolla S Mass Air Flow Wiring

J

joedirt

New Member
#1
#1
I really need help! My brother cut the connector off of the maf sensor on my moms car. There is a new toyota maf sensor on the intake. But it has the wrong connector. The wire colors from the car are different than the colors on the connector. Im not sure which wires to hook where. The origional wire colors are black, black, pink, violet and brown/white.
The senosor on the car is a denso 22204-22010. Im not sure if the sensor is correct for the car. The connector fits but im not sure of the pinout. Does anyone have a pinout for the sensor? Wiring diagram for the car? Any help would be great! I can include pictures if needed.

I see that it might be a problem to get schematics here but pictures of proper wire color and pinout would be awesome!
 
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Donabed Kopoian

Donabed Kopoian

6 Speed Master
#2
#2
On rockauto.com, I'm seeing the sensory number as #222040T020 for the 1.8 VVT-i

And these part numbers for the 2.4 VVT-i: #222040H010 or 2220431020

You need to get the right sensor, and I would buy a new connector, as they will come with factory matching wiring that you can splice in yourself.

This is an important piece. Get the right parts and connector, don't rig it or you're going to cause damage to the car.
 
J

joedirt

New Member
#3
#3
Thanks for the post! I realy want to put the correct parts on the car but unfortunately im not having much luck finding them. I have checked all the auto parts stores in my town and no one has the connector. The auto parts junkyards keep showing me a connector that does not fit either. Im not sure if the cars they are taking the part off of were made in the same place. Im told the 09 corolla can come from us, canada, or japan. At this point im not sure what the correct connector looks like because it was cut off before i was able to look at the car.
 
J

joedirt

New Member
#7
#7
i found the proper maf sensor online waiting for the part. replaced fuel pump (original problem) not popping the main fuse anymore. car starts but still has 102 and 113 codes for maf. Now have to replace (still looking) the fuel tube sub assy. in engine compartment. this was also cut in half to see if fuel was getting to the engine. Not sure why everything was cut. Bad troubleshooting i guess. Im making progress but having trouble finding all the correct parts. Thanks for all the help!
 
J

joedirt

New Member
#14
#14
Do you guys have any ideas on how to wire that mass air flow meter back up. Three of the wires are pretty self explanatory. Pink (THA), Brown\white (ETHA), and purple (VG). But there are two black wires. When i turn the key one wire has 12v. I am guessing that would be pin 3 (b+). The other black wire i would assume to be pin 4 (E2G)? I suppose i could guess but I'm afraid guessing might not be the best idea. It seems to be really hard to find wiring diagrams on the internet. Should i just try to follow the wires back to the ECM? I'm pretty sure E2G is pin 116 on the ecm. I'm just not 100% confident.

By the way I have the gas line fixed. No fires! :thumbsup:
 
J

joedirt

New Member
#18
#18
Wow! That's exactly what I have been looking for! I am so glad I joined this forum and asked for help. I'm not exactly a mechanic. I like to do my own work on all my cars but I do electronics for a living. In my field i have access to every drawing, print, schematic that I would ever need. I share what i have with whomever needs it. I really appreciate everyone sharing with me to help me and my mom to get her car running again! I know how frustrating it must be to spend so much time reading posts and responding with your hard earned knowledge. You are all great people for helping so much! I truly appreciate it!!!
 
Donabed Kopoian

Donabed Kopoian

6 Speed Master
#19
#19
If I didn't enjoy helping people, I wouldn't be here.

Honestly, it is considerate and appreciative people like yourself that I really enjoy helping the most!

Keep us posted, and share a video of the car being fired up and running with no lights!
 
J

joedirt

New Member
#21
#21
I need some more guidance with this maf sensor testing. I have a new maf sensor and still getting the codes for the maf and air temp. Should i be able to see 12v across two pins. Like from b+ to e2g. Or just 12v from b+ to ground.

No continuity from e2g to ground. Is this my problem?
 
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Donabed Kopoian

Donabed Kopoian

6 Speed Master
#22
#22
E2G is a signal wire I believe, so you shouldn't get 12V from b+ to e2g because there is no voltage potential across those two pins.

You cleared the codes and they came back? ... hmmmmmm ... the pins are solid in the connector right? How did you splice the wiring into the connector? Did you solder the two wires together and then use heat-shrink tubing to seal the connection?

What about the PCM connection? Any bent pins or loose connections or wires at the PCM connector?
 
J

joedirt

New Member
#23
#23
I did make my own connectors with some db connectors like what would be used in a computer comm. port connection. They are small square ones and fit perfect. They have heat shrink around them to keep them from touching. I have not soldered them on because i am still working on buying the correct connector so it is still temporary wiring. The codes will not clear. At the moment the code for the maf is low voltage from sensor. I have .9 volts where i believe i should have between 2 and 4volts. When i measure and run the engine the voltage does not change. This is why i assumed i may be missing my ground for the sensor.
Some videos i have watched on checking the maf sensor on other cars always have you check your 12v and ground supplied to the maf. I have great drawings for the pinouts but i just dont understand what the abbreviations mean. B+,E2g, VG, E2, and THA.
One guy told me that he thought that E2G was a ecm supplied ground, and he showed me a drawing that supports his theory, but it was for a different car.
 
Donabed Kopoian

Donabed Kopoian

6 Speed Master
#24
#24
Possible. I'm not sure what they mean either (cryptic abbreviations FTL).

Check the resistance at each splice you made, and make sure it is under 0.1 ohms. Only thing I can think of that wouldn't point to a defective PCM.
 
J

joedirt

New Member
#26
#26
At this point i do believe i have a bad pcm. I checked the wires back to the connector and they are good. I checked the pins for the air intake sensor and have 4.9 volts to ground on both all the time when the car is running. Today i decided to put the e2g wire to chassis ground. With the car running i have 2. something to 5. something volts from e2g to vg. Now the maf sensor fault code (P0103 maf curcuit high input) clears. The car starts each turn of the key, stays running and sounds alot better. But the intake air temp code (P0113 air intake curcuit high) is still there.
.
I dont know if this is a normal way for the pcm to fail. But with what was done to the car i think anything is possible. Tomorrow when i get home i will check the temp sensor some more. It was used off of ebay.
.
I'm wondering at this point if i should just let my mom drive the car for now. I think the maf is sending the ecu what it needs and just the ait sensor is not working. If the car is driven this way will it effect the way the car runs? Will it hurt the car? Am i going to need someone put a new computer in for one sensor?
 
Donabed Kopoian

Donabed Kopoian

6 Speed Master
#27
#27
Alright, check the sensor if it was used on eBay, might be banged up.

Also, for electrical, I never recommend use parts, as it is easier to get a damaged or defective unit that will waste more time because it is assumed to be good.

You should be able to check the resistance of the thermistor (air intake temperature sensor), and check it to verify that it is in specification for the temperature it is reading. Otherwise, if the wiring all checks out and the sensor is good, then a PCM failure probably happened.
 
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