I have a 2003 corolla LE, 220k miles (very well maintained). Since late summer/fall 2016, I noticed my corolla was starting more slowly. I replaced the battery in December. Two weeks later it was dead again. Fast forward to March, I went on a trip and left my car for a week. I came back home and it was dead again. I found after letting it sit for two days it will need to be jumped. I recently replaced the alternator (bearing went out). I have a parasitic draw and I am having trouble tracking it down. After market options currently installed: 7in touch screen radio, reverse camera, upgraded speakers and subwoofers. All other parts have been removed or returned to stock. Diagnostic check already performed: Connected ground from battery to voltmeter and connected to neg cable end, verified .3v draw on dome fuse. Checked instrument cluster, radio, front drivers courtesy switch, and rheostat for change in voltage. No draw detected on those components. Has anybody every had any experience with trying to track down a draw like this? I have access to EWD's but lack sufficient skill to decipher them myself. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
03 Corolla parasitic draw
- Thread starter Sn0wFlake
- Start date
- Tags diagnostic electrical
Did you get your audio setup done professionally?
I had the same problem with my audio setup too.
I took my Corolla to 3 different places to get my battery & alternator test (I got 3 different results).
I search online and Youtube, all I found out was how to trace the drain, no answer how to fix the issue.
I had to change replace alternator and upgrade my battery to a optima battery.
I believe the alternator needs to be somewhere around 13 – 14 ish v to in the normal range.
And the battery needs to be somewhere around 12 – 12.7 v ish.. not 100% sure
Make sure you check your serpentine belt & tensioner pulley too.
Here what I pick @ my local Harbor Freight Tools
12V Battery/Alternator Tester Item# 6684
6/12V Circuit Tester with 5 ft. Lead Item# 61652
Lithium Ion Jump Starter and Power Pack Item# 62749
and
Ebay voltage gauge (cheap one that plugs into the cig lighter, to monitor voltage)
I had the same problem with my audio setup too.
I took my Corolla to 3 different places to get my battery & alternator test (I got 3 different results).
I search online and Youtube, all I found out was how to trace the drain, no answer how to fix the issue.
I had to change replace alternator and upgrade my battery to a optima battery.
I believe the alternator needs to be somewhere around 13 – 14 ish v to in the normal range.
And the battery needs to be somewhere around 12 – 12.7 v ish.. not 100% sure
Make sure you check your serpentine belt & tensioner pulley too.
Here what I pick @ my local Harbor Freight Tools
12V Battery/Alternator Tester Item# 6684
6/12V Circuit Tester with 5 ft. Lead Item# 61652
Lithium Ion Jump Starter and Power Pack Item# 62749
and
Ebay voltage gauge (cheap one that plugs into the cig lighter, to monitor voltage)
Parasitic current draw is measured in milliamperes (mA), with a meter in series with the battery. Apparently you are taking voltage readings, e.g., you say .3v across your dome light. Do you mean .3 mA? This is way too low for a modern car. If you mean .3 amperes, that is way too high (300 mA) or 1/3 of an ampere - a car battery would not last long!!!
On Youtube there are several videos on how to properly measure parasitic draw. On my Corolla (2010), the current draw with the car off is less than 10 mA but it may be different on your car.
To troubleshot, disconnect one component at a time.
On Youtube there are several videos on how to properly measure parasitic draw. On my Corolla (2010), the current draw with the car off is less than 10 mA but it may be different on your car.
To troubleshot, disconnect one component at a time.
A few other thoughts:
In starting to troubleshoot, check that you did not wire the accessory directly to the battery even though you may have connected it through the fusebox or spliced into a line. Even if the device is turned off, it may seem that way but could be drawing current to maintain its memory or clock. If the current draw is acceptable, then disconnect each device one at a time and measure the draw current.
Alternatively, you could disconnect all the aftermarket stuff you have installed and see if this brings the draw current back to normal level. Then re-connect each device, one at a time, each time measuring the draw current.
Finally, you mention that the battery has been depleted at least twice. Your battery (even if new) may now have become sulfated to the point where it is a weak battery, subject to difficulty in being fully charged. Make sure your battery is still good (test it at Autozone or Advanced Auto) even if you find the device that is the culprit.
In starting to troubleshoot, check that you did not wire the accessory directly to the battery even though you may have connected it through the fusebox or spliced into a line. Even if the device is turned off, it may seem that way but could be drawing current to maintain its memory or clock. If the current draw is acceptable, then disconnect each device one at a time and measure the draw current.
Alternatively, you could disconnect all the aftermarket stuff you have installed and see if this brings the draw current back to normal level. Then re-connect each device, one at a time, each time measuring the draw current.
Finally, you mention that the battery has been depleted at least twice. Your battery (even if new) may now have become sulfated to the point where it is a weak battery, subject to difficulty in being fully charged. Make sure your battery is still good (test it at Autozone or Advanced Auto) even if you find the device that is the culprit.