Weird A/C Issue

[bd0926]

hi,
I'm new to this forum, and I'm hoping that you guys can help me with something. I have a 2004 Corolla, and now that the weather is getting warmer, I am noticing a weird issue with my AC. I'll turn on my AC and it'll blow cold air like always. However, at random times, it'll stop blowing cold air. I'll shut it off and turn it back on, and it'll work again. This is the first time that this has happened since I've owned the car. I'm inclined to think that it's an electrical issue, because since last year (on a seemingly unrelated issue), my clock has been not working. It'll go on sporadically and then and then stop working. What's weird is, since i've started using my AC, my clock has been working.


Do this sound like an electrical issue?

 

[little rebel]

I'm having the same problem with my 14 corolla s, it takes a long time to get cool at first and randomly goes warm when I take off from a stop especially when I'm turning right. I'm going to the dealer on Tuesday and I will update if any fix. Different years yours and mine but I'll bet there's a lot of common parts.

 

[Scott O'Kashan]

Welcome to the Corolla Forum! :thumbup1::clap::thumbup:arty::balloon:

As for the tepid air conditioning, the cause could be many different things, but the most likely is after ten years the AC system may be low on freon. Extremely unlikely to be an electrical issue, (I've never seen that in 30 years in the auto repair/maintenance industry).

I'm not suggesting adding more freon to the system, as overcharging the AC system can cause an explosion. The AC system needs to be diagnosed.

Your clock not working properly is a separate issue and your vintage of Corolla is well known for this. We have videos here in the forum that show how to repair the clock and the repair is quite simple. The link is below -

http://www.corollaforum.com/showthread.php?t=2160

 

[bd0926]

thanks for the reply. I'll have my mechanic check out the system. Hopefully it just needs freon

 

[Scott O'Kashan]

My pleasure. :thumbup1:

Keep in mind if the AC system needs recharging/is low on freon, it went somewhere. In other words, there's a leak and that needs to be found so the leaking component can be replaced. Otherwise, the new freon will just leak out again and you're back to square one and tossed away good money to boot.

To detect freon leaks in the system, a dye will need to be added to the AC system that when exposed to a special light will glow bright yellow/green. This will pinpoint the leak. Not every auto center has this AC diagnostic equipment so you may need to call around. Try the Yellow Pages in your phone book under, "Air Conditioning, Automotive".

I'll forewarn you, AC repairs can be very expensive, as in even over $1,000. The plus side is that you'll keep cool in the summer instead of frying and a properly functioning air conditioning system will increase the value of your car when it comes time to sell it.

I hope this helps you out. Keep us posted.

 

[IFMJohn]

Actually, the R134a refrigerant molecules are much, much smaller than the old R12 molecules are. These molucles are so small that they can actually leak through GOOD fittings and hoses. Over 10 years, being a little low on refrigerant (it is not Freon, just saying) is not that big of a deal. Now, if your mechanic does a proper service (recover, vacuum for 30 minutes or more, refill) and your refrigerant goes away by the time next summer hits, you've got an issue.

 

[IFMJohn]

By the way, this is normal A/C system operation. The compressor is designed to cycle on and off. If your low-side pressure drops too low (meaning that you're low on refrigerant) your compressor will cycle off and stay off until the low-side pressure raises enough. If you are low enough on refrigerant this could take a while (maybe 15 minutes? it depends on the system design and size). The simple fact that the compressor will turn on and blow cold at all tells us that there is refrigerant in the system, meaning that it is most likely a standard-leakage issue.

 

[Scott O'Kashan]

IFMJohn - If the freon is low, there's a leak somewhere and it needs to be addressed or new freon will leak out again. Expensive.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

I'm having the same problem with my 14 corolla s, it takes a long time to get cool at first and randomly goes warm when I take off from a stop especially when I'm turning right. I'm going to the dealer on Tuesday and I will update if any fix. Different years yours and mine but I'll bet there's a lot of common parts.

I have a 2014 S. Mine takes about 3 or 4 minutes to cool. Seems normal, because once it is going it cranks out cool air.

 

[IFMJohn]

IFMJohn - If the freon is low, there's a leak somewhere and it needs to be addressed or new freon will leak out again. Expensive.

Not true. As I stated, R134a is known to be such a small molecule to where it will leak out over time. This takes a decade or more to even notice it but it can and will leak out over time with no real fix.

If you fill it up and it leaks out again, then you have issues.

 

[bd0926]

Thanks for the info, IFMJohn. If and when I have the AC looked at, the most I'll do is have the refrigerant refilled. I live in Massachusetts, and we only get like 4.5 months of hot weather, that coupled with the fact that my car is 10 years old, a temporary fix is more than fine with me. If this solves the problem for at least a year, I'm ok with it.

 

[Scott O'Kashan]

If you pay money to have the freon recharged, it will leak out again, along with your money. Without having the system leak tested, there's no way to know how much money in freon will be thrown away because of a leak.

An AC system that is leaking freon also allows the lubricating oil inside the system to leak out. When that lubricating oil leaks out, the AC components inside can rust and fail, (like the AC compressor bearing). Allowing that to happen can cause a little repair that doesn't cost so much to turn into a huge repair that costs a lot.

I recommend if we are going to do something, to do it right. :thumbup1:

 

[bd0926]

According to your previous post, checking for and repairing leaks can cost over 1,000 dollars. That's way to much for me to be spending on this. I'm hoping that it's what IFMJohn said, a gradual reduction of refrigerant over time. If it is a leak, and after I fill it, i have the same issue next summer or the summer after, I'll say screw it and keep my windows open lol. In the hierarchy of importance, a working ac is near the bottom for me.

 

[IFMJohn]

According to your previous post, checking for and repairing leaks can cost over 1,000 dollars. That's way to much for me to be spending on this. I'm hoping that it's what IFMJohn said, a gradual reduction of refrigerant over time. If it is a leak, and after I fill it, i have the same issue next summer or the summer after, I'll say screw it and keep my windows open lol. In the hierarchy of importance, a working ac is near the bottom for me.

I'm not saying this is for sure your issue. I'm just stating that the EPA knows that this occurs and it's not unheard of for R134a to simply "disappear" and, when a technician looks for a leak, s/he will not find one because it is not large enough to be detected because it is a leak that will literally take years to empty the system. The best fix (if you really care) for this is to replace the hoses and connections with OEM or OEM quality parts followed by a Recovery, Vacuum, and Refill. Most people just refill it every year or two and call it good. The EPA doesn't like that but it's reality.

By the way, I am EPA 609 certified to purchase and handle refrigerants used in mobile A/C systems. I'm not some random person who thinks he knows about A/C.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

Usually leaks occur at the evaporator casing, which are a cluster to change out.

Usually if you notice less and less cooling, that is R134a slowly seeping out.

If it was blasting cold one day and nothing but warm air the next, that is typically a leak. My '96 GT did that.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

Since you mentioned that you would intermittently lose more and more cold air ... I'm thinking you don't have a leak and just need a refill.

 

[Scott O'Kashan]

If the freon needs refilling, by definition there must be a leak.

 

[Scott O'Kashan]

bd0926 - This video will help you in understanding air conditioning system leaks -

 

[h711k]

I have a similar problem with my '05 Corolla's A/C. It works when I first turn on the engine. But the compressor will cycle off frequently after the first 10 minutes. Actually it stays off more often than on. I checked the following things:
1. The refrigerant pressure at the low-pressure port was within range, about 32;
2. The compressor clutch relay was checked and was found to be fine;
3. The A/C control switch on the dash board was checked by swapping and was find;
4. The pressure switch on the high-pressure refrigerant tube was short-circuited by a jumping wire and that didn't make a difference;
5. The hotter the weather is, the more frequent it would cycle off.

I ran out of things to test, except digging into the hundreds of wires behind the dash board. Any ideas what can be the cause of this? Thanks a lot!

By the way, I short-circuited the clutch relay and forced the compressor to be working. Now my circulation fan switch on dash board is controlling the AC, and it works fine. But I have to make sure the fan is off when I start the engine.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

You are going to blow a line on your high side keeping that A/C compressor active at all times and potentially damage the compressor, which is easily the most expensive component in the system. Check your high side pressure and if it is over, take it to an A/C shop and have them check the TXV Expansion Valve.

 

[h711k]

Hi Donabed,

Thank you very much for your advice. I put back the relay in fear of blowing the high-pressure line, as you had warned. But my impression is that it is not the problem of the pressure or a clogged expansion valve. I checked the pressure switch on the high-pressure line by measure the resistance between the terminals and it was always zero (conducting) regardless of AC running or stopping. So the AC probably didn't cycle off because the pressure switch was sending a "high" signal. Is there another sensor, such as a temperature sensor within the cabin, that would also turn off the AC if it senses that the air is cold enough? But I wonder if my economical Corolla CE would have anything like that.

Any way, many thanks again for your input.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

I know on the 2014 if Eco mode is active, the A/C won't get as cold to save gas. That's possible.

 

[little rebel]

I'm having the same problem with my 14 corolla s, it takes a long time to get cool at first and randomly goes warm when I take off from a stop especially when I'm turning right. I'm going to the dealer on Tuesday and I will update if any fix. Different years yours and mine but I'll bet there's a lot of common parts.

I finally got to the dealer for the 5k service and asked about the A/C issue, here's how it was explained to me and this sounds accurate to me, when the AC is turned on from a stop the cars computer automatically Turns off the compressor on acceleration briefly as a means of saving gas, this causes a brief warming from the vents. For me it's a small issue and I can live with it.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

WOT will disable the A/C for maximum acceleration ... it shouldn't do it under light throttle unless they changed the program to do so.

 

[edantoorgeman]

It`s got to be some sort of temp sensor thing going on their.Do you use the auto position,and just turn off the ac button? If not try that,mine works better temp.wise doing it that way.Or you should contact to AC repair miami beach for further help.

 

[chestvrg]

Maybe what happened to my Corolla 2005 may help. I was having the same issued and the a/c shop finally diagnosed it to be the expansion valve down into the dashboard. In my case the a/c cold air would cycle on and off w/o turning any notification light off or on, eventually it got to the point where it would cool for like 15 min and then the cycling on/off would begin.

I live in Miami and it gets very hot here, I had to do the repair. It was quoted at $600, but he did it for $380 after all my father in law who is a general mechanic had thought it was the compressor sensor, but it was the expansion valve.

 

[2008 Corolla Le]

Do this sound like an electrical issue?[/QUOTE]

According to your previous post, checking for and repairing leaks can cost over 1,000 dollars. That's way to much for me to be spending on this. I'm hoping that it's what IFMJohn said, a gradual reduction of refrigerant over time. If it is a leak, and after I fill it, i have the same issue next summer or the summer after, I'll say screw it and keep my windows open lol. In the hierarchy of importance, a working ac is near the bottom for me.

bd0926,
Did you ever find out what your issue was?

 

[Sky]

I have the same problem with my 2014 corolla. The dealer tells me it is normal I say it is bull. 5 to 10 minutes with warm (what the dealer call comfortable air) is unacceptable. I checked all the levels with another mexhanic and everything is perfect. I was told it could be the fan not working at the right speed and that usually the fan is the first to go and difficult to detect unless it stops running completely. I am under warranty still buy I am affraid they will do more harm than good to my car trying to figure it out. Anybody with a 2014 having problems?

 

[sheldonsmith]

The loose fitting your hoping for is the connection from the lines to the expansion valve and from the other side of the expansion valve to the evaporator. I have seen this one time in the last few years out of maybe 18 to 20+ evaporators on the Prius. ether way the dash still has to come off 7hr labor. the only difference is the cost of the evaporator, and the expansion valve connected to the evaporator. That's your choices. You also said you see gray under the glass and that only comes from one place and that's not good. In that gray also are vary vary tiny metal flakes. when they pull out the evaporator have them pour some of the oil out of the old evaporator it should be crystal clear. At the same time replace the $19 expansion valve and the dryer sock in the condenser by good AC Repair Service.

 

[whatsherface]

I have the same problem with my 2014 corolla. The dealer tells me it is normal I say it is bull. 5 to 10 minutes with warm (what the dealer call comfortable air) is unacceptable. I checked all the levels with another mexhanic and everything is perfect. I was told it could be the fan not working at the right speed and that usually the fan is the first to go and difficult to detect unless it stops running completely. I am under warranty still buy I am affraid they will do more harm than good to my car trying to figure it out. Anybody with a 2014 having problems?

. You might already know this by now...
There is a TSB for this for the 2014-2015 corollas.. the AC compressor needs to be updated...

 

[Sharad]

Hi, I have bought a Corolla Altis just a month back (Model 2016) clocked less than 1000 km.

Till some time back -
1> It's AC vents were not making hogging noise on lowest speed. but now while blowing the air, there is a little hogging noise as if air is passing through some narrow passage.
2> AC Fan/ compressor turns on/ off very frequently (i.e. in less than 10 seconds) while the vehicle is stationery.
3> There is a slight motorised noise (like something is adjusting) if I increase the temperature from 24 degree and this noise comes frequently while vehicle is running.
4> Also, now when I switch on the AC for the first time in morning, smells very bad as if Air is passing from a damped cloth.

I went to dealer and explained all this and here are the answers -
1> For hogging noise there is no explanation and it is normal
2> AC Fan/ Compressor turning on/ off, again normal
3> There is some kind of flap which changes its direction after 24*C, hence this motorised noise will be there
4> Dampen smell, may be because of whether it will go in due course

I tried to explain him that all these issues, I didn't notice in last 30 days but suddenly there are there.
I really want to understand if these are normal (my apprehensions) or is there really a issue.

Thanks

 

[Richard Tomlinsen]

Hey, not sure if you were able to solve this problem, but thought I would chime in, as I had a similar problem some months ago. Intermittent AC in a 2004 Corolla. After checking a lot of things, including the R134A level and pressure. I finally figured out it was the A/C relay that was going bad.

You can do a quick test by swapping it with the horn relay, just to see if that fixes the problem. The relays are located in the fuse box under the hood. If that fixes the problem, replace it. The relay is only about a $15 part. I made a quick write-up about it with picture. If you google:

manic mechanics fix your intermittent AC - Replace the compressor relay

you should find it.
Lots of good advice in this thread, so just thought I would throw in another suggestion.
Good luck! Hope it helps.

 

[whatsherface]

Hey, not sure if you were able to solve this problem, but thought I would chime in, as I had a similar problem some months ago. Intermittent AC in a 2004 Corolla. After checking a lot of things, including the R134A level and pressure. I finally figured out it was the A/C relay that was going bad.

You can do a quick test by swapping it with the horn relay, just to see if that fixes the problem. The relays are located in the fuse box under the hood. If that fixes the problem, replace it. The relay is only about a $15 part. I made a quick write-up about it with picture. If you google:

manic mechanics fix your intermittent AC - Replace the compressor relay

you should find it.
Lots of good advice in this thread, so just thought I would throw in another suggestion.
Good luck! Hope it helps.

Hi.. mine was a service bulletin for the compressor.. I brought it to toyota and they swapped it out.

 

[Richard Tomlinsen]

Nice!

 

[Nuell]

Hi, I have 2006 corolla 73k mils, Auto TXN.
Expansion Valve was leaking oil and has been changed 2 months ago. No more leakages.
AC works but compressor DOES NOT CYCLE ON and OFF.
Can this damage compressor?

 

[Mike Kompinski]

Nice!

 

[Mike Kompinski]

Can anyone help. I have a 2015 Toyota Corolla that has auto climate control.
Noticed that the A/C will work well and normal, but if I turn the A/C off while the car is running or shut the car off and start the car back up the A/C stops working. It only blows hot air not even cool air.
After the car sits for a while it will then blow cold air.

 

[HangdoG]

If your older Corolla is not losing freon, yet has periods of warmness, consider replacing the expansion valve thats inside the evaporator under the dash. Typical failure point for these. See YouTube.