Well guys, me and my friend got bored so we decided hey lets race. A little background knowledge he has an old Mercury grand marquis. I think it's a 1985, but idk I just know it's a V8 and loud with like 170-180 hp. So I have a 2014 Corolla S. We just did two straight line races and I'm proud to say that my Corolla won one. The Corolla was able to get off the line quick, he passed me soon after then towards the end the Corolla picked up and passed him. So I'm pretty happy now
Racing with a Corolla S
- Thread starter pvrmiller
- Start date
There's sort of 2 levels of traction control on our cars, one is Vehicle Stability Control and one is Traction Control. I forget which button press turns off which, but when you quickly press the traction button it turns one off, and then if you keep holding the button for i think its 10 seconds, then it turns off the second. If you want them both off, just hold the button until both icons turn on on your dash.
One indicate "TC off", the other "VSC off". The third one inform the driver when one or both systems intervenes. So no way nor need to put it off if the systems are off.
The pedal trick is for car with launch assist. This is a Corolla, not a Corvette or Veyron. Funny, though, how some people discard TC/VSC as electronic less efficient then their own driving ability but are raving for electronic LA.
If you only press the TC/VSC button, it disengage TC only until a certain speed is reached. You need to hold the button longer to get both TC/VSC off.
By doing so, you do get more control, fun and tire squealing but not more power. Power is only reduced when needed, as tire squealing, if "pure fun", is also "pure loss energy".
There is a reason why TC is considered an unfair advantage !
The pedal trick is for car with launch assist. This is a Corolla, not a Corvette or Veyron. Funny, though, how some people discard TC/VSC as electronic less efficient then their own driving ability but are raving for electronic LA.
If you only press the TC/VSC button, it disengage TC only until a certain speed is reached. You need to hold the button longer to get both TC/VSC off.
By doing so, you do get more control, fun and tire squealing but not more power. Power is only reduced when needed, as tire squealing, if "pure fun", is also "pure loss energy".
There is a reason why TC is considered an unfair advantage !
How to turn off the TC and VSC completely when using the parking brake and brake pedal:
1) Check that the Ignition is off and the shift lever position is at P.
2) Start the engine after turning the Ignition to the ON position.
3) Perform the following steps 4 to 8 within 30 seconds after engine start:
4) Turn the E-brake on.
5) Depress and release the brake pedal three times.
6) Turn the E-brake switch on and off three times while depressing the brake pedal.
7) Depress and release the brake pedal three more times while the E-brake is on.
Notice: Steps 6 and 7 should be performed within 15 seconds each.
8) Check that the VSC warning light and slip indicator are turned on.
If they are not turned on, start over from step 1.
1) Check that the Ignition is off and the shift lever position is at P.
2) Start the engine after turning the Ignition to the ON position.
3) Perform the following steps 4 to 8 within 30 seconds after engine start:
4) Turn the E-brake on.
5) Depress and release the brake pedal three times.
6) Turn the E-brake switch on and off three times while depressing the brake pedal.
7) Depress and release the brake pedal three more times while the E-brake is on.
Notice: Steps 6 and 7 should be performed within 15 seconds each.
8) Check that the VSC warning light and slip indicator are turned on.
If they are not turned on, start over from step 1.
I actually looked into trading my car in to get a BMW 335i, kind of glad I didn't because it turns out that the car I was looking at had been in an accident, but they only offered me 13k. I'm paying on 22k after title tax and all, fully loaded corolla s plus with 6MT option. I was kind of stupified that they would offer so low but they were probably looking at an LE because they go for 14,995 all day.
Sorry to get off track, but when I launch my car in first from a stop with no trac/stability control it squeals the tire for a second but the car lurches so bad back and forth that it kills my acceleration. If these cars came with a LSD trans it may be worth while to get a supercharger kit from a lotus or something. Nobody expects a corolla to be fast so it would be hilarious to run down a mustang or camaro.
EDIT: I also have megan racing coilovers (worst suspension ever imo, I've had Tein's and they cost more but it's worth it) that were slightly used when I got them and 20mm wheel spacers to make the wheels flush.
Sorry to get off track, but when I launch my car in first from a stop with no trac/stability control it squeals the tire for a second but the car lurches so bad back and forth that it kills my acceleration. If these cars came with a LSD trans it may be worth while to get a supercharger kit from a lotus or something. Nobody expects a corolla to be fast so it would be hilarious to run down a mustang or camaro.
EDIT: I also have megan racing coilovers (worst suspension ever imo, I've had Tein's and they cost more but it's worth it) that were slightly used when I got them and 20mm wheel spacers to make the wheels flush.
I bought them slightly used as well. I think these are the same ones.
https://www.amazon.com/5x100-Hubcentric-Spacers-Subaru-Impreza/dp/B00A7I2RN8
Make sure to use a torque wrench to tighten the spacers between 80-100 ft/lbs. Then use a torque wrench to tighten your wheels to the spacers. I was skeptical at first but wheel spacers are safe to use with the proper torque specs. If you use an impact wrench or torque them to "guten tight" you will warp the spacers and get vibrations and add stress to the spacers. Also get the ones that have their own studs, they are actually safer because you would be effectively shortening your hub's lug studs and could damage them.
https://www.amazon.com/5x100-Hubcentric-Spacers-Subaru-Impreza/dp/B00A7I2RN8
Make sure to use a torque wrench to tighten the spacers between 80-100 ft/lbs. Then use a torque wrench to tighten your wheels to the spacers. I was skeptical at first but wheel spacers are safe to use with the proper torque specs. If you use an impact wrench or torque them to "guten tight" you will warp the spacers and get vibrations and add stress to the spacers. Also get the ones that have their own studs, they are actually safer because you would be effectively shortening your hub's lug studs and could damage them.
I’m talking about “Launch Control” or “Launch assist”, the electronic nanny that compensate driver’s mistakes to get the fastest possible take-off in some high-end sports cars. No button, but engaged via some pedal/shift manipulation either to give the driver a sense of engagement or to prevent overuse of a function that put quite a load on components. That’s some pedal code still required nowadays. But for TC/VSC ?
The pedal code (dyna-mode) was required in the not so far good old days when there was no physical button for “TC off” in Toyota/Lexus, a pain if stucked. Then we got one stage button (TC off up to 60 Km/h). It was back to square one when VSC appeared (no button). Now we have the two stages button (TC off up to 60 Km/h – TC-VSC off).
I personally don’t care about disabling it but I’m curious: the OM is quite clear about the limitations of the first stage (TC off) so what would be hidden behind the sentence about second stage (TC-VSC off): “re-enabling will not occur when vehicle speed increases”. That it will re-engage under some lateral forces or if ABS/BA/EBD is require?
In other words, what’s the specific difference in “completely” between the current button and the old dyna-mode?
The pedal code (dyna-mode) was required in the not so far good old days when there was no physical button for “TC off” in Toyota/Lexus, a pain if stucked. Then we got one stage button (TC off up to 60 Km/h). It was back to square one when VSC appeared (no button). Now we have the two stages button (TC off up to 60 Km/h – TC-VSC off).
I personally don’t care about disabling it but I’m curious: the OM is quite clear about the limitations of the first stage (TC off) so what would be hidden behind the sentence about second stage (TC-VSC off): “re-enabling will not occur when vehicle speed increases”. That it will re-engage under some lateral forces or if ABS/BA/EBD is require?
In other words, what’s the specific difference in “completely” between the current button and the old dyna-mode?
^This^ . I too would like some documented information from Toyota about the alleged difference in "completely" between current button and old dyna-mode.
Toyota seems pretty clear in its main documentation. Even the case of the FRS/BRZ is no mystery : the button for VSC ils labelled "VDC sport", not "VDC off".
Otherwise I can't help feeling a little bit as being told about some DOS functions under Windows
Toyota seems pretty clear in its main documentation. Even the case of the FRS/BRZ is no mystery : the button for VSC ils labelled "VDC sport", not "VDC off".
Otherwise I can't help feeling a little bit as being told about some DOS functions under Windows
I haven't driven around in the mode yet but I doubt ABS is disabled ... although it is hard to lock up the brakes with the EBC Stage 5 Kit.
And ... as far as getting it back on ... I'm still trying to figure that part out, LOL! I tried doing the routine again, tried doing e-brake, brake, e-brake instead of brake, e-brake, brake. Held the button down, hit it about three dozen times. Not sure.
I guess it works different in 6MT since it doesn't have the Park/Neutral safety switch?
And ... as far as getting it back on ... I'm still trying to figure that part out, LOL! I tried doing the routine again, tried doing e-brake, brake, e-brake instead of brake, e-brake, brake. Held the button down, hit it about three dozen times. Not sure.
I guess it works different in 6MT since it doesn't have the Park/Neutral safety switch?
I figured out what it is, and I was in the ball park with an earlier comment.
Since the 6MT lacks a Park/Neutral safety switch for obvious reasons, the mode is only triggered to deactive when the car registers a vehicle speed.
If I stay parked and turn the car on and off, TCS and VSC stay off.
Second I get moving, then shut the car off and back on, TSC and VSC are back on.
Since the 6MT lacks a Park/Neutral safety switch for obvious reasons, the mode is only triggered to deactive when the car registers a vehicle speed.
If I stay parked and turn the car on and off, TCS and VSC stay off.
Second I get moving, then shut the car off and back on, TSC and VSC are back on.