Hi Guys, Recently I have been having CVT problems with my 14 Corolla S. 1st nd 2nd gear seem to be slipping..now ill give a little detail...when i accelerate sometimes from a stop the car will jump RPMS and as I call it kinda jerk the car a little bit as almost like the gear isnt catch properly, also when coming to a stop and the car is downshifting when the car is idling at 1100rpm coming to a stop finally right before i stop it finally downshifts to idle but when it does it also jerks the car. It just seems to be like the first two gears is slipping on both accelerating and coming to a stop. I have taken it to the dealer twice and have gotten the same B.S. answer "Our tech drove the car three times and didnt find anything wrong, the CVT trans is a new trans and you might think its jerking but its not" now I am not that dumb and this is happening because it wasnt doing it before. I am just really frustrated because i bought this car brand new and am not satisfied with it. Anybody else have this problem? Have any suggestions? Any idea what the problem could be? Anything would help!
2014 Corolla S CVT Problems
- Thread starter tlang901
- Start date
Not sure I understand the description of your problem since a CVT has no gears (so no gear slip nor downshifting). It's normal for the engine to hit X rpms according to throttle pressure. The CVT takes it frome there. Jerking "a little bit" is normal on initial acceleration (more so under heavier acceleration) although I've never really felt it. So I guess only someone driving your car could determine if its a normal "little bit" or an abnormal one.
I imagine if the steel belt in the CVT were to slip and then catch, it might cause something like this. Or it could be related to the programming that controls the simulated shift points.
How big of a jump in RPM's are you seeing when accelerating? Any difference related to outside temperature?
If it is the CVT, it will likely get worse to the point where the dealer will be able to replicate it. I know that kind of stinks, having to possibly wait for that. Keep track of the number of times you take it to the dealer for attempts at fixing the problem.
I suspect it is related to the simulated shift points, and possibly some slack in the drivetrain, it happens more in some cars than others, and hard to do much about. My last Civic was really bad for this, and it was a stick shift. Would jerk every time you touched or let off the accelerator.
How big of a jump in RPM's are you seeing when accelerating? Any difference related to outside temperature?
If it is the CVT, it will likely get worse to the point where the dealer will be able to replicate it. I know that kind of stinks, having to possibly wait for that. Keep track of the number of times you take it to the dealer for attempts at fixing the problem.
I suspect it is related to the simulated shift points, and possibly some slack in the drivetrain, it happens more in some cars than others, and hard to do much about. My last Civic was really bad for this, and it was a stick shift. Would jerk every time you touched or let off the accelerator.
It only happens occasionally like two to three times while driving. It feels just like very rough shifts so whenever the CVT is switching into gear it is not doing it smoothly it is rough, jerky, and stiff not the smooth way like its suppose to. It wasn't doing this up until about a week ago so its def not normal, i bought the car new 6 months ago so this issue is def not normal and not part of the standard CVT process. I am just so confused because when its at the dealership its obviously not happening of course when its with me it does it. I am just really frustrated because i feel like i get the same answer from the dealership of "oh we drove it three times and found nothing" and I bought this car brand new for $23000 and its a Toyota which is suppose to be "reliable"
I'm definitely no CVT expert, but it doesn't sound like slipping. What you're describing is very subjective and I can see why the dealer would claim nothing is wrong - they don't know how your car normally shifts as well as you do. You could ask them to make sure there are no error codes stored, although you would probably get a light for that. Also perhaps check to make sure you have the latest software version for the control modules. Other than that, you might have to wait until it gets worse and more obvious. If something really is wrong it should become very apparent before your powertrain warranty runs out. Make sure its on record that you brought the matter to the attention of your dealer.
I think that they have a tool or a plug or something that they jam into some hole
laughing and a machine syphons out the old fluid and puts in the new one. The problem is that there is nothing in the Toyota owners manual that even mentions anything regarding changing the CVT fluid. It might be a load of crap for all we know.
laughing and a machine syphons out the old fluid and puts in the new one. The problem is that there is nothing in the Toyota owners manual that even mentions anything regarding changing the CVT fluid. It might be a load of crap for all we know.
I think that they have a tool or a plug or something that they jam into some holelaughing and a machine syphons out the old fluid and puts in the new one. The problem is that there is nothing in the Toyota owners manual that even mentions anything regarding changing the CVT fluid. It might be a load of crap for all we know.
laughing and a machine syphons out the old fluid and puts in the new one. The problem is that there is nothing in the Toyota owners manual that even mentions anything regarding changing the CVT fluid. It might be a load of crap for all we know.
Keeping mum puts more money in the dealerships pocket as well as Toyota because they can recommend the CVT be replaced and that **** ain't cheap. For example, if my CVT takes a **** after the warranty period I am simply gonna get a used manual transmission, the flywheel, the ECU, and fit that **** into my Corolla.
Aisin has a reputation for building reliable units, so I'm not too worried. Sealing the unit prevents any contamination from getting into the fluid, that's supposedly the reason its sealed.
I don't have a huge problem with how Toyota handles this, as long as the dealer is honest when they do the inspection. Fluid change is tricky and has to be done precisely and delicately.
I went with the ECO cause I wanted maximum fuel economy and I have to say it hasn't disappointed as its averaged over 45 mpg since I've owned it. Although I do wonder if I would have gotten close to that with a six speed stick, which would be more bulletproof. (I drive almost all highway and conservatively). Spouse wanted an automatic though, and the L model wasn't too appealing.
There are several fluids that have been in my 05 Civic since new, now at 300k miles, including power steering, manual trans fluid, clutch fluid, haven't had any problems . The break fluid and antifreeze have been in there for over 150k miles - those I probably need to do those soon.
Modern synthetic lubes can be be pretty tough and durable. I'm not sure color of the fluid really says much about CVT fluid quality as it supposedly darkens almost immediately after being put into use.
I don't have a huge problem with how Toyota handles this, as long as the dealer is honest when they do the inspection. Fluid change is tricky and has to be done precisely and delicately.
I went with the ECO cause I wanted maximum fuel economy and I have to say it hasn't disappointed as its averaged over 45 mpg since I've owned it. Although I do wonder if I would have gotten close to that with a six speed stick, which would be more bulletproof. (I drive almost all highway and conservatively). Spouse wanted an automatic though, and the L model wasn't too appealing.
There are several fluids that have been in my 05 Civic since new, now at 300k miles, including power steering, manual trans fluid, clutch fluid, haven't had any problems . The break fluid and antifreeze have been in there for over 150k miles - those I probably need to do those soon.
Modern synthetic lubes can be be pretty tough and durable. I'm not sure color of the fluid really says much about CVT fluid quality as it supposedly darkens almost immediately after being put into use.
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I believe its just a characteristic of the fluid. With conventional ATF, darkening usually indicates overheating. The chemistry of the synthetic CVT fluid is significantly different. Viscosity stability is probably its most important parameter. There will be an add pack put into the CVT fluid to maintain proper viscosisty and prevent shear. Conventional and even synthetic ATF fluids have more detergent properties and because of this they darken over time as they clean or if they overheat. The viscosity stabilizers in synthetic CVT fluid, I believe, begin to darken pretty quickly but continue to do their job.
I am a chemist with some background in polymers and synthetic lubricants. While I haven't specifically worked with CVT fluids, I believe the nature of the robust add pack is responsible for the darkening. I wouldn't be concerned about its color.
I am a chemist with some background in polymers and synthetic lubricants. While I haven't specifically worked with CVT fluids, I believe the nature of the robust add pack is responsible for the darkening. I wouldn't be concerned about its color.
The CVT is more efficient than the six speed due to constant perfect gear matching. The human element makes it a little inferior, but not by much. I'd prefer the CVT in this car because it's not a sports car. Although, I will argue driving a manual does make you an overall better driver. If anything, it's all about how much the foot touches the floor on the pedal regardless of transmission.
I have a 2014 S with a CVT. At 41,000 I was experiencing symptoms you're describing. I ended up throwing a check engine light the next day so I went straight to my dealer. They ended up replacing the CVT with a reman transmission under warranty. Apparently I had a malfunctioning solenoid. Note the PSI notations on the (hopefully attached pic)
Attachments
It kinda looks like the reading were taken after the face. I'm wondering what would cause the pressure to suddenly increase to double the specification but when you factor in jerking, it makes sense.
Either the specs are wrong or there is a design flaw with oil pressure distribution.
Glad I went for the six speed...
Either the specs are wrong or there is a design flaw with oil pressure distribution.
Glad I went for the six speed...
Wait cvt doesn't have a gear change on less it's a traditional transmission. A cvt consists of 2 servos n belt that changes in size depending on speed n load. During acceleration there's a lot of load to get the car moving which wen slipping is at the worst. All transmissions no matter it's a 4 speed or a cvt wen oil is low it won't have much grab to apply pressure to the clutches or servos. To bad all transmission r sealed without a dip stick to check it. How cold was it?
Well in very cold days or extreme cold the oil in transmission is very different compare wen it's warmer just it time to warm up to operating temperature. Last winter I noticed that when I'm shifting in extreme cold it gets very stiff to change gear so I can only imagine what an automatic is going thru
It is either a CVT or a 4-speed automatic, not both.
The newer CVT simulates a 7-speed, but it only simulates ... the two terms are not interchangeable.
Anyway, if it is doing it when cold but not when warm, then it sounds like the fluid level is a little low (ATF expands when warm).
Keep in mind, ATF is still considered "cold" at 120° F, and isn't considered warm until about 170° F.
The newer CVT simulates a 7-speed, but it only simulates ... the two terms are not interchangeable.
Anyway, if it is doing it when cold but not when warm, then it sounds like the fluid level is a little low (ATF expands when warm).
Keep in mind, ATF is still considered "cold" at 120° F, and isn't considered warm until about 170° F.
Same problem here! 2014 corolla le 10,000 miles. Started before its first oil change.
I knew when I purchased the car it does not have gears. But the only way to describe it is a rough shift. Like in a breaking automatic transmission. I have not had the problem while accelerating only while slowing down.
Also in Florida and happens both while engine cold (its always over 80) or hot.
I knew when I purchased the car it does not have gears. But the only way to describe it is a rough shift. Like in a breaking automatic transmission. I have not had the problem while accelerating only while slowing down.
Also in Florida and happens both while engine cold (its always over 80) or hot.
I had my master cylinoid in the CVT go sideways at 41,000 miles. They replaced the whole transmission because it was pushing 4x the recommended pressure in reverse gears and had low pressure in drive gears. I might be overly sensitive but I think my transmission is starting to show the same signs as before. I am not looking forward to +$6k for transmission replacement
*had intermittent hard shift and slipping in lower gears. When transmission was cold, it would make "whining" sounds and sometimes feel like it was "engine braking". I would have them do a diagnostic on the transmission and check the pressures. When mine went, it threw a check engine light. (Not a good feeling-especially in a Toyota). Hope that helps some
*had intermittent hard shift and slipping in lower gears. When transmission was cold, it would make "whining" sounds and sometimes feel like it was "engine braking". I would have them do a diagnostic on the transmission and check the pressures. When mine went, it threw a check engine light. (Not a good feeling-especially in a Toyota). Hope that helps some
Hi all I love the Toyota brand and my last several cars have been Toyotas. I owned a sentra for past year n a bit and hated the thing. In part cause of CVT in that car. I am almost ready to buy a used Corolla S with 58k on it KM here up in Canada. Does the cold effect the trany? Want to hear from people who have this or more mileage on their corolla s. Also what is cost of extended warranty since i can purchase prior to 60k being hit.
Thanks for your responses
Thanks for your responses
My 16 Corolla S is my first car with a CVT and I've noticed you need to apply throttle very smoothly in stop and go traffic. Otherwise you feel the torque converter "shudder". But that is with acceleration, I haven't noticed anything during deceleration. OP, what happens when you use the paddle shifters or Sport mode?