2010 Corolla - How to Remove a Drum Wheel Stud
- Thread starter soumikcha
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If you need a 5 pound hammer and it is still not coming out, only way it will at that point is if you heat it up, and with a drum, you can warp it badly and compromise your brake system by heating it up.
Stop banging on it, and use a press to push it out. If you don't have one, take the drum to a shop, and they should be able to press it out for you for around $15 or so.
Stop banging on it, and use a press to push it out. If you don't have one, take the drum to a shop, and they should be able to press it out for you for around $15 or so.
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You can also use a c-clamp if you are creative. Find a solid cylinder that has an ID big enough to fit the knurled part of the stud inside of it (the part that holds itself onto the drum, you might even be able to use a large 12 pt. socket for this), cover the top of the cylinder with a piece of metal, and use the c-clamp to tighten down on the busted end of the stud.
The bang theory
brake cleaner, liquid wrench a regular hammer, the5lb is only doing the damage spreading more bang around, use what is shown and it will get done, if a press is to expensive for you. to much bang transfers to parts., like Wheel bearings.
Just a grasshopper,
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I do not think I can get a C clamp behind it. It didnt look like enought space. All i see is banging the stud out and it did not work for me even thought I seen no rust on the stud. Someone told me to carefully put some wd40 in both side and wait and try banging again. any idea if that is even safe since I know wd40 eats brake pads.
$60 to press out a wheel stud? What the hell is this world coming to?
Remove the drum, and spray PB Catalyst on it and let it sit overnight, then lay the drum down flat on a solid surface and try tapping it again, then it should work. Use a regular hammer, don't use a 5 pound sledge
Also, did you tell them that the drum was already off the car? That $60 sounds like what they would charge if they had to remove the tire and the drum themselves and put it back together for you.
Remove the drum, and spray PB Catalyst on it and let it sit overnight, then lay the drum down flat on a solid surface and try tapping it again, then it should work. Use a regular hammer, don't use a 5 pound sledge
Also, did you tell them that the drum was already off the car? That $60 sounds like what they would charge if they had to remove the tire and the drum themselves and put it back together for you.
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Most of the time they do come out with a light tap. But soum was saying that it wouldn't come out, even with a 5 pound hammer, so your options, at that point, are:
1) Soak it in PB Catalyst and hope that it works
2) Heat it up and then bang it out (which is bad)
3) Press it out.
I'm just not a fan of using a ton of force on the hub. If I can't get it out by lightly tapping on it, I'll get it pressed out.
Stubborn brake rotors are one thing, because they take the brunt of the shock, but when you smack a stud that is seized in a hub, the wheel bearing takes the shock, and that is not good. For a drum? It's possible you warp the drum and cause brakes that vibrate when applied (and if you miss your target on a hard swing, that's REALLY bad).
1) Soak it in PB Catalyst and hope that it works
2) Heat it up and then bang it out (which is bad)
3) Press it out.
I'm just not a fan of using a ton of force on the hub. If I can't get it out by lightly tapping on it, I'll get it pressed out.
Stubborn brake rotors are one thing, because they take the brunt of the shock, but when you smack a stud that is seized in a hub, the wheel bearing takes the shock, and that is not good. For a drum? It's possible you warp the drum and cause brakes that vibrate when applied (and if you miss your target on a hard swing, that's REALLY bad).
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I have a light whistle or squeak,so I shall takeoff my rear tire and drum, for my personal inspection, while I am doing so "I WILL NOT" take my stud out, but ishall look at it see if there is something you may not be correctly doing?
I say what may be stopping you from memory here. Is make sure something is not blocking the stud, possibly there is an opening and you are banging in an closed area.
I say what may be stopping you from memory here. Is make sure something is not blocking the stud, possibly there is an opening and you are banging in an closed area.
I have to agree, but I said I will not go further than what I did? It will take a great strike, to get that out, for sure.
In my video (am good) I demonstrated the stud. While I had to inspect my drum, there happened to be a string, that may have caused my sound, as well some rust, Rear Brakes (not breaks) have 50k or more life on them.
I as well showed, how to chock, how to lift, how to jack, how to take a tire off, how to correctly place lugs back. I show...
I hope this helped out somewhat, the hill is there. going DOWN. You just can not see it.
FISH
In my video (am good) I demonstrated the stud. While I had to inspect my drum, there happened to be a string, that may have caused my sound, as well some rust, Rear Brakes (not breaks) have 50k or more life on them.
I as well showed, how to chock, how to lift, how to jack, how to take a tire off, how to correctly place lugs back. I show...
I hope this helped out somewhat, the hill is there. going DOWN. You just can not see it.
FISH
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Go Fishy! :thumbsup: 
Thanks Scott Want to know something real funny, the ambulance was running and two guys SLEEPING, we awoke them, and they moved to another location SLEEEPING!
Fishy, I cant thank you enough for the great video. helped me a lot.
Few follow up question,
What was the bolt size you used to remove the drum. luckily mine came off really easy, cant say the same for my sienna lol.
second, ether you or anyone else ever lifted the whole car? I wanted to try that so I can dip my wheels. but road is little tilted so I belive it will be tilted by 2inch on left side. would that be a problem?
Thanks
Few follow up question,
What was the bolt size you used to remove the drum. luckily mine came off really easy, cant say the same for my sienna lol.
second, ether you or anyone else ever lifted the whole car? I wanted to try that so I can dip my wheels. but road is little tilted so I belive it will be tilted by 2inch on left side. would that be a problem?
Thanks
Watched your video fishy. No room for a c-clamp + socket back there, even with a small one, and wow ... I have never seen lug studs on that tight. They should have come out with the amount of force you were using.
Almost seems like you are better off pulling the hub out entirely (then the c-clamp + socket will work, or the press). I wouldn't be comfortable using more force on a hub than what you used.
Almost seems like you are better off pulling the hub out entirely (then the c-clamp + socket will work, or the press). I wouldn't be comfortable using more force on a hub than what you used.
Nevermind ... forget that. He was beating the crap out of that hub because he was replacing it anyway (Toyota rust issues are ridiculous for this stuff).
If it isn't coming out with a hammer, you have one of two options.
1) Buy or rent a hub puller to remove the hub (which is what he should have used), then from there, use a c-clamp + socket or press it out at a shop.
2) Pay the $60 and let it be their headache (however, they may just beat it out with a pneumatic hammer or pound away with a sledge and cause you problems down the road).
If it isn't coming out with a hammer, you have one of two options.
1) Buy or rent a hub puller to remove the hub (which is what he should have used), then from there, use a c-clamp + socket or press it out at a shop.
2) Pay the $60 and let it be their headache (however, they may just beat it out with a pneumatic hammer or pound away with a sledge and cause you problems down the road).
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I do not have four Jack stands, only two. I can demonstrate the lift, and where, and how, etc.. but with 2 stands two hydrolic jacks. the car will be leveled due to the floor jacks. I lifted my Old CR-V to try my best to fx the transmission, on unleveled ground. ALL four wheels had to be spinning. AWD (all wheel drive) must be off the ground.
I say LIFT it. Rear of car place to that downhill, , front to the uphill, Jack stand has adjustments for height, one click up only.
If need a demonstration you got it!
Thanks Don. The tool I found should slide in better then the C-clamp due to the thin back it has. I have a smaller C-clamp, but the opening we know will not be the same size as the larger, so it ia no go for the smaller one, I have?
The meathod we use to bang in loxons or Anchors. is exactly like I shown, put the lug on, but some lug nuts are cover's. Hearing the difference in sound, and using, like said enough force. One Solid blow, real hard would get it off , I believe?
I totally agree Don., You do have to keep banging, it will give, if you are banging for to short a time, and to soft, the strike is not right, if asked. Just my thoughts
That last video, he cut to the chase, be there all day extracting it out. a ton of lube is needed, but that is what he will have to do.
I say LIFT it. Rear of car place to that downhill, , front to the uphill, Jack stand has adjustments for height, one click up only.
If need a demonstration you got it!
Thanks Don. The tool I found should slide in better then the C-clamp due to the thin back it has. I have a smaller C-clamp, but the opening we know will not be the same size as the larger, so it ia no go for the smaller one, I have?
The meathod we use to bang in loxons or Anchors. is exactly like I shown, put the lug on, but some lug nuts are cover's. Hearing the difference in sound, and using, like said enough force. One Solid blow, real hard would get it off , I believe?
I totally agree Don., You do have to keep banging, it will give, if you are banging for to short a time, and to soft, the strike is not right, if asked. Just my thoughts
That last video, he cut to the chase, be there all day extracting it out. a ton of lube is needed, but that is what he will have to do.
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Yes! got the bolt removed with hammering lol. Used some pb blaster but dont think it helped as i only let it sit for five minutes. I hammered so hard it gave up. So the problem I am facing now is putting the stud. I was able to use the bolt to twist half of it inside but now it is really hard and I cant tighten it more. what can I do now?
Fish, it looks like you live in NY. I am actually in MD. It was sunny but dipping wheel takes upto two hours and if it is not sunny enough to cure, it could be a problem. and My room do not have enough space to dip four wheel. lol
I will finish it tommorw. It took me over five hours to clean the old dip. I did seven coat but they were so bad and thin.....lol...i cant finger my feeling.
I will finish it tommorw. It took me over five hours to clean the old dip. I did seven coat but they were so bad and thin.....lol...i cant finger my feeling.