Engine Ticking

[MozzEC]

Hi all,

I have an issue with what sounds like lifter noise but not sure. It started barely noticeable a few weeks ago and is getting worse. The oil levels are fine and has been serviced every 6,000 miles - although it is due a service now. The car was doing about 6,000 miles per year upto end of feb ths year and is now being doing about 30 miles per day 7 days a week.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3FBtyBrQfY


Cheers

 

[Scott O'Kashan]

Welcome to the Corolla Forum! :thumbsup::thumbup::clap::thumbup1::balloon:

I listened to your video and a distinct metal-to-metal banging can be heard. This is a very serious situation and I strongly advise you not to run the engine anymore, until a professional automotive technician can look at it, (have it towed to an auto center). It can cause serious and expensive engine damage to run the engine further. That banging and clanging going on is so bad, if you drive it further, the engine could entirely fail and engine replacements are huge money these days.

Just guessing, it sounds like the engine is not getting proper oil pressure and the engine is being starved of oil. This could be from a failed oil pump, or an oil pump pick-up screen plugged up with petroleum oil sludge and/or the oil filter plugged up with the same petroleum oil sludge, which will cause the oil pressure to drop. Normally if oil pressure had dropped to this point though there would be a dashboard warning light alerting you to the problem. However, this is not always the case as that too can fail.

Also, the oil itself could be the problem. You mentioned the oil gets changed every 6,000 miles and the car is only driven 6,000 miles per year. Does this then mean the oil is being changed once per year? Is a petroleum oil being used in the engine? If the answer is yet to both questions, the petroleum oil is likely being pushed way beyond its design parameters and the additive package in the oil has become depleted, the oil is way passed due being changed and possibly this has allowed some internal engine problems to occur.

 

[MozzEC]

Hi,

Thanks very much for your comprehensive reply. I believe the sound may come across quite different in the video as I took the car to 3 different mechanics not longer after making the post, and it seems the fan belt is brittle and needs replacing. They suggested changing the belt first and if the noise is still there then it will most likely be a bearing in the alternator or possibly water pump.

Thanks again.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

1. Find another mechanic that can actually find the problem and not guess.

2. Noise is occurring too slowly to be piston slap or valvetrain issues.

3. Get a vacuum line, and VERY CAREFULLY hold one end to your ear and probe parts with the other end. Suspects will be the idler pulley, the tensioner pulley, the alternator, and the power steering pump.

4. My money is on the tensioner pulley or idler pulley. If you hear the noise at a consistent volume on all of those items, then the belt is the issue, but it would take a lot of aging to have a belt make that noise. They usually squeal and tear before getting that brittle.

 

[fishycomics]

I do not like guessing but loose valves or tight valves... can it be that. a stethoscope or a piece of wood placed on the engine to get exact location of ticking.

Sorry my sound is off today

 

[Scott O'Kashan]

MozzEc - There is a distinct metal-to-metal clanking sound in the video. I highly doubt that is being caused by a rubber belt.

I concur with Donabed that if are having mechanics taking guesses, they aren't mechanics. Avoid.

Diagnose.

An inexpensive but effective stethoscope is to use a long metal screwdriver, extension bar or two put together, or what have you and put one end to your ear with the other end up against whatever you want to listen to. The sound will travel to your ear and you will be able to hear noises inside the engine, alternator, water pump, cylinder head, engine block etc. This can help you pinpoint the noise, instead of taking wild guesses and the very expensive, time consuming and wasteful parts replacement routine.

With a cold engine, removing the serpentine belt and running the engine for 30 seconds will tell you if the noise is coming from any of the accessories or not. After removing the belt and running the engine, if you don't hear the offending noise anymore, then it is one of the accessories that the belt was running. If the noise persists, then you know it is an internal engine problem. Don't run the engine for more than 30 seconds, as with the serpentine belt removed, the water pump will not be turning and the engine will overheat if you let it run for too long.

Again, is the oil being changed only once per year with this engine? Petroleum oils are not safely capable of that.

Get back with us and let us know what you find. Avoid discount auto parts stores at all costs as they will just encourage you to, "Here, but X and replace it and if that doesn't work then buy X and replace that...", etc., etc., etc. Lots of your money later vacumed out of your wallet later the problem still exists. Never do the parts replacement routine.

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

Yeah, the second a mecanic says "I think it could be x, y, or z", it's a sign to run. If someone pays me $60 to diagnose either I'll have an answer or refund their money and recommend another mechanic. Most mechanics have a stethoscope or do the vacuum line trick, so he sounded like he was being lazy.

 

[MozzEC]

Thanks for the replies. I'm not overly confident in diagnosing the fault myself so spoke with another mechanic that offered to do it for $45. They indicated the noise sounded like it was coming from the front end belt area and sounded more like the alternator rather than water pump, but wouldn't know for sure until getting the belt off. They said that if the problem is with the alternator and I chose to have it replaced with them, they would credit the $45 diagnostic fee.

Does it sound like they are being aboveboard?

 

[Scott O'Kashan]

MozzEC - Yes, the new auto center you are dealing with sounds legitimate. At any auto center I've ever run, we always credited any diagnostic fee's towards the cost of the needed repairs, as that's only fair and also provides the customer an incentive to have the needed repair work completed.

Is this a nationwide auto repair center chain you are working with or an independent auto center?

 

[Donabed Kopoian]

Sounds legit.

 

[MozzEC]

MozzEC - Yes, the new auto center you are dealing with sounds legitimate. At any auto center I've ever run, we always credited any diagnostic fee's towards the cost of the needed repairs, as that's only fair and also provides the customer an incentive to have the needed repair work completed.

Is this a nationwide auto repair center chain you are working with or an independent auto center?

Hi, it's an independent...

 

[larg]

what was it? i put some napa silicone grease on my serp belt and she's ran quiet ever since but my car wasnt clicking she was chirping