How to Disable Alerts?
- Thread starter Mr. K
- Start date
Wait until you get the vehicle serviced*, and then disable it. When you reset it, it may get recorded by the PCM and it could lead to warranty issues if they believe you were resetting it just to get rid of the warning and not when you actually did it.
However (and at your own risk), get the car to trip A. Shut it off. Hold the trip reset down, and turn to ignition on, and keep holding it until you see lines disappear and 0000, then it should be reset.
However (and at your own risk), get the car to trip A. Shut it off. Hold the trip reset down, and turn to ignition on, and keep holding it until you see lines disappear and 0000, then it should be reset.
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Each vehicle varies. When you try it in Odometer , fails, try it in trip A, and try in trip B. Each vehicle varies.
to find out if info is truly recorded, you can visit your Toyota dealer, and they will do the following
Mark you down for a visit at the dealer , on the Computer, that gets recorded, per visit and info that the mechanic does, noted to their system that gets passed to car fax reports.
Maintenance Required Light. simply turn it off and change your Oil per your discretion.
Here is a video above, that I show vs a post talking Lol
to find out if info is truly recorded, you can visit your Toyota dealer, and they will do the following
Mark you down for a visit at the dealer , on the Computer, that gets recorded, per visit and info that the mechanic does, noted to their system that gets passed to car fax reports.
Maintenance Required Light. simply turn it off and change your Oil per your discretion.
Here is a video above, that I show vs a post talking Lol
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It's different for the 2014 since Odometer is always displayed, and it varies between the non-information display cluster and the information display cluster.
Information display cluster is the same as always except you are in Trip A
For the non-information display cluster, you use the DISP button on the wheel to display Odometer, then hold DISP when you turn the car on.
Information display cluster is the same as always except you are in Trip A
For the non-information display cluster, you use the DISP button on the wheel to display Odometer, then hold DISP when you turn the car on.
From the owners manual - I didn't think the non-information display cluster had the maintenance required light at all.
No - bad advice. The light comes on at 5K miles to remind you to check the coolant level and hoses and change the oil if it was non-synthetic (well, not 0W-20) at the last oil change.
If you use 0W-20 and the recommended 10K mile OCI, you want to reset the light now, or you won't get a notification at 10K miles (or you have to drive 5 months with the light on - which isn't good either).
It's not a great system - IMHO, no better than my 1984 Accord system - where I routinely changed the oil every 3K miles and reset the indicator whenever it flipped from green to yellow (and did NOTHING to the car at the time)
No - bad advice. The light comes on at 5K miles to remind you to check the coolant level and hoses and change the oil if it was non-synthetic (well, not 0W-20) at the last oil change.
If you use 0W-20 and the recommended 10K mile OCI, you want to reset the light now, or you won't get a notification at 10K miles (or you have to drive 5 months with the light on - which isn't good either).
It's not a great system - IMHO, no better than my 1984 Accord system - where I routinely changed the oil every 3K miles and reset the indicator whenever it flipped from green to yellow (and did NOTHING to the car at the time)
Stusmith, I wrote down the mileage of the reset and kept the reciepts. All you really can do.
Tiger, the 1ZZ and 2ZR use full synthetic, with the 2ZR having 10k intervals. The maintenance required light is a sign to rotate tires, on top of everything else.
If you aren't doing the work yourself and you reset the light anyway, the dealer may note that the second you skip a service with them. It's paranoid, yes, but why chance it?
Tiger, the 1ZZ and 2ZR use full synthetic, with the 2ZR having 10k intervals. The maintenance required light is a sign to rotate tires, on top of everything else.
If you aren't doing the work yourself and you reset the light anyway, the dealer may note that the second you skip a service with them. It's paranoid, yes, but why chance it?
Scott O'Kashan will love me posting this, but we are over-thinking this ... Directly from the 2014 Corolla Warranty and Maintenance Document:
MAINTENANCE
You are responsible for performance of
the required maintenance indicated in the
Owner’s Manual and this booklet. Toyota
will not deny a warranty claim solely
because you do not have records to show
that you maintained your vehicle. However,
any failure or noncompliance caused by
lack of maintenance is not covered by this
warranty.
When maintenance and repairs are paid
for by you, these services may be
performed by you or by any automotive
service provider you choose. Toyota will
not deny a warranty claim solely
because you used a service provider
other than a Toyota dealership for
maintenance and repairs. However, any
failure or noncompliance caused by
improper maintenance or repairs is not
covered by this warranty.
Basically - if you skipped an oil change, you are probably okay, but if it is pretty obvious that the engine was run for 50K to 100K miles without an oil change (based on condition), it is good to have receipts.
As Donabed said - it is a good idea to keep a log of when service was performed and keep your receipts. (That is for the Toyota warranty - if you got a third-party warranty from the dealer, it might require you to have service receipts - in this case, it might be worthwhile to make a deal with a mechanic if one would be agreeable: i.e. "I do my own oil changes, but I need a receipt for the oil changes. Let me pay you $5 or $40 and please give me a receipt for an oil change, but you don't have to touch my car." (Not sure this would work as the mechanic is somewhat accepting liability for the issue - i.e. if you didn't change the oil, if you stripped out the drain plug ...)
Not sure what the 1ZZ and 2ZR are - I googled it and didn't come up with anything useful - I think the 2014 USA Corolla uses the 2ZR with valvematic on the LE ECO versions.
Note, the Maintenance Guide is somewhat in error on this - it says 0W-20 has a 10K mile or 12months, but 5W-20 mineral oil is acceptable, but if it is used, the oil must be changed back at 5K miles or 6 months to 0W-20 oil.
Flaws:
All of this is tilting at windmills though, b/c as the book says, I could run dino 5W-20 at 10K intervals and as long as it isn't obvious that the extended oil change caused the problem, I am covered. (Not that I recommend this - the engine would likely fail at 75K (outside the 60K powertrain warranty), rather than 150-200K or more otherwise.)
Technically:
Check installation of driver’s floor mat
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels
Inspect wiper blades
Rotate tires
Visually inspect brake linings/drums and
brake pads/discs
And some other things for severe service, but in reality ...
Wiper blades and tires aren't covered under the warranty - it doesn't say to re-balance the tires or align the front end. Non-rotated tires will wear sooner, but it is unlikely even a badly unbalanced tire would wear out the shocks, and they don't tell you to balance them anyway. If I fail to check the coolant and the radiator runs dry at 7.5K miles, it is hard to verify if it leaked out in the last 2.5K miles or whether checking it at 5K would have prevented the issue - same with brake pads/linings.
Again - the risk is the same with or without the light ...
i.e. If I reset the light without taking the car to the dealer, the dealer might say "You were due for an oil change at 10K miles". It is up to me if I want to have a receipt from Jiffy Lube, have a receipt for the purchase from Wal-Mart, or just say I changed the oil myself when I didn't and hope the car doesn't fail from old oil.
But the same thing is true if there were no light to reset - when I take the car to the dealer at 11K miles and he can't show I brought it in at 10K for the oil change, he is going to tell me exactly the same thing with exactly the same options on my part.
MAINTENANCE
You are responsible for performance of
the required maintenance indicated in the
Owner’s Manual and this booklet. Toyota
will not deny a warranty claim solely
because you do not have records to show
that you maintained your vehicle. However,
any failure or noncompliance caused by
lack of maintenance is not covered by this
warranty.
When maintenance and repairs are paid
for by you, these services may be
performed by you or by any automotive
service provider you choose. Toyota will
not deny a warranty claim solely
because you used a service provider
other than a Toyota dealership for
maintenance and repairs. However, any
failure or noncompliance caused by
improper maintenance or repairs is not
covered by this warranty.
Basically - if you skipped an oil change, you are probably okay, but if it is pretty obvious that the engine was run for 50K to 100K miles without an oil change (based on condition), it is good to have receipts.
As Donabed said - it is a good idea to keep a log of when service was performed and keep your receipts. (That is for the Toyota warranty - if you got a third-party warranty from the dealer, it might require you to have service receipts - in this case, it might be worthwhile to make a deal with a mechanic if one would be agreeable: i.e. "I do my own oil changes, but I need a receipt for the oil changes. Let me pay you $5 or $40 and please give me a receipt for an oil change, but you don't have to touch my car." (Not sure this would work as the mechanic is somewhat accepting liability for the issue - i.e. if you didn't change the oil, if you stripped out the drain plug ...)
Not sure what the 1ZZ and 2ZR are - I googled it and didn't come up with anything useful - I think the 2014 USA Corolla uses the 2ZR with valvematic on the LE ECO versions.
Note, the Maintenance Guide is somewhat in error on this - it says 0W-20 has a 10K mile or 12months, but 5W-20 mineral oil is acceptable, but if it is used, the oil must be changed back at 5K miles or 6 months to 0W-20 oil.
Flaws:
- In theory, if they ever make dino 0W-20 oil, I am fine to run that for 10K miles, even though that is not intended - moot point as 0W-20 is full synthetic by definition currently.
- The book doesn't say ANYTHING about 5W-20 Synthetic oil. In theory, that should be good for 10K miles as well, but the book doesn't mention it at all.
- According to the book, I can't just use 5W-20 Dino oil at 5K intervals indefinitely. I can use it once, but then I have to switch back to 0W-20. (As written, I could use it every OTHER oil change).
- The maintenance intervals don't line up - i.e. it says at 10K, 20K, 30K miles, I have to change the oil, but at 15K, 25K, 35K, I have to change the oil if 5W20 was used last time. Let's look at this in practice - at 10K miles, I decide to use 5W-20 oil. At 15K, I change back to 0W20 oil per the manual. This should be good for 10K miles, but when I hit 20K miles, the book is going to tell me to change the oil again.
All of this is tilting at windmills though, b/c as the book says, I could run dino 5W-20 at 10K intervals and as long as it isn't obvious that the extended oil change caused the problem, I am covered. (Not that I recommend this - the engine would likely fail at 75K (outside the 60K powertrain warranty), rather than 150-200K or more otherwise.)
Technically:
Check installation of driver’s floor mat
Inspect and adjust all fluid levels
Inspect wiper blades
Rotate tires
Visually inspect brake linings/drums and
brake pads/discs
And some other things for severe service, but in reality ...
Wiper blades and tires aren't covered under the warranty - it doesn't say to re-balance the tires or align the front end. Non-rotated tires will wear sooner, but it is unlikely even a badly unbalanced tire would wear out the shocks, and they don't tell you to balance them anyway. If I fail to check the coolant and the radiator runs dry at 7.5K miles, it is hard to verify if it leaked out in the last 2.5K miles or whether checking it at 5K would have prevented the issue - same with brake pads/linings.
Again - the risk is the same with or without the light ...
i.e. If I reset the light without taking the car to the dealer, the dealer might say "You were due for an oil change at 10K miles". It is up to me if I want to have a receipt from Jiffy Lube, have a receipt for the purchase from Wal-Mart, or just say I changed the oil myself when I didn't and hope the car doesn't fail from old oil.
But the same thing is true if there were no light to reset - when I take the car to the dealer at 11K miles and he can't show I brought it in at 10K for the oil change, he is going to tell me exactly the same thing with exactly the same options on my part.