I have a 2001 toyota corolla, over the past month my high beam indicator started blinking and I'm guessing it was the drl lights. I remedied this by just turning the headlights on. Well last night I came home from work and when I turned the ignition off my turn signal and tail lights stayed on. They were not blinking just on. I need a cheap fix for this. This is my work vehicle so I'm not really wanting to put a lot of money into it. I don't know if it is the drl module or something else. Thanks for the help
Turn Signal and Tail Lights Won't Turn Off
- Thread starter Coryfor
- Start date
Taillights are hot at all time so even with the ignition off, they would stay on if you left them on.
As far as the turn signals, that is bizarre. Between that and the flickering high beams, I'm guessing you have a defective headlight switch or a stuck relay. Test them before you replace anything. Don't just buy a switch and relay until you verify a fault.
As far as the turn signals, that is bizarre. Between that and the flickering high beams, I'm guessing you have a defective headlight switch or a stuck relay. Test them before you replace anything. Don't just buy a switch and relay until you verify a fault.
RE:
I think what you're describing is the same issue that I'm experiencing. I posted a thread today too entitled "Parking Lights Stuck On" and this sounds almost identical to what I'm experiencing. Basically, what your saying is that all the corner lights (not the actual headlights or tail lights, but the parking/running/turn signal lights in the front and rear corners) are always stuck on, right? Even with the key out and all the switches turned off.
If so, you can try disconnecting the DRL relay (under the hood), the DRL module (behind the glove box) or even the Multi-switch on the steering column. If the lights turn off, you found your bad component. If not, then we're in the same boat because I'm still trying to figure it out. I think I have a short because I disconnected the battery, did a continuity test and found that I have continuity between the positive battery cable and the wire for the parking light.
I think what you're describing is the same issue that I'm experiencing. I posted a thread today too entitled "Parking Lights Stuck On" and this sounds almost identical to what I'm experiencing. Basically, what your saying is that all the corner lights (not the actual headlights or tail lights, but the parking/running/turn signal lights in the front and rear corners) are always stuck on, right? Even with the key out and all the switches turned off.
If so, you can try disconnecting the DRL relay (under the hood), the DRL module (behind the glove box) or even the Multi-switch on the steering column. If the lights turn off, you found your bad component. If not, then we're in the same boat because I'm still trying to figure it out. I think I have a short because I disconnected the battery, did a continuity test and found that I have continuity between the positive battery cable and the wire for the parking light.
Yes Johnnyalright that's exactly it. The strange thing is I had no burning wire smell that most describe with the bad drl module. I did pull it out and the lights went out but my headlights would not work at all. I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery and it has fixed the problem with the external lights being stuck. Now I always have my high beam indicator on. It is barely noticeable but it is on. I put the module back in and then I started getting the burning wire smell. I pulled it again and sure enough there is a piece on the board that is burnt out. Not sure what the piece is called but it is labeled ZD8 on the bottom of the board. Is this my problem or do I need to redo my grounds for this part?
Alright ... DRL doesn't affect turn signals, but you say it is burned ... unplugging it stopped the issues ... that tells me the DRL module had excess current going through it, which tells me the ground for the DRL module is making contact to the lead with your turn signal and taillights.
Man this is really bizarre ... do you have a multimeter? You're going to want a wiring diagram. This is what I would do.
When the parking lights are stuck on, disconnect a plug to one of them, and start probing the connections from the bulb socket all the way back to the beginning of the entire circuit (which would most likely be the engine compartment relay box) hunting for voltage. Where you find the voltage break is where you found the culprit.
Johnny mentioned that unplugging the headlight switch still kept it on, so I'm guessing the problem lies in the junction box somewhere. There is one wire that controls the parking lights than fans out to the individual lights themselves, so my guess is the problem lies before the split in the junction box but after the relay or switch itself.
Man this is really bizarre ... do you have a multimeter? You're going to want a wiring diagram. This is what I would do.
When the parking lights are stuck on, disconnect a plug to one of them, and start probing the connections from the bulb socket all the way back to the beginning of the entire circuit (which would most likely be the engine compartment relay box) hunting for voltage. Where you find the voltage break is where you found the culprit.
Johnny mentioned that unplugging the headlight switch still kept it on, so I'm guessing the problem lies in the junction box somewhere. There is one wire that controls the parking lights than fans out to the individual lights themselves, so my guess is the problem lies before the split in the junction box but after the relay or switch itself.
No I don't have a multimeter but I can get one. I had read the drl controlled all the lighting functions. But I guess not. But like I said once I disconnected the negative battery terminal and then reconnected it the turn/ tail lights stayed off. I even checked the multifunction switch and unplugged it and they stayed on. And what would cause the high beam indicator to flash? Where can I get the wiring diagram?
The high beam indicator flashing was why I thought switch initially ... if the DRL Module does control the turn and tail lights (which is kinda misleading) then it is possible it being fried is messing with everything. You should be able to pick up a Chilton's for the wiring diagram, as any that are kept online are taken down for copyright violations pretty quick. You'll want to check the wiring anyway to verify that a short or frayed insulation didn't cause the DRL module to fry in the first place. Last think you want is to plug it in and trash it the second you turn the car on.
View attachment Screenshot_2014-07-04-16-35-24.jpg
this is one of the diagrams I found I don't know how to read these. So I need some translation please
Pin 36 on the driver kick panel junction box, it's an all green wire (no tracer), that is the suspect wire where it is getting current from (and the wiring diagram doesn't show these going through the DRL module, so you have two bad wires ... one is this green wire, and the other one is an output wire from the DRL, hence the fried module).
Which relay is that? High beams relay?
Any chance you can measure the voltage of your battery as the engine is running? With all of these electrical gremlins surfacing at once ... I'm wondering if your voltage regulator on the alternator is malfunctioning and overcharging the car (Anything past 15.5 V and I would change it out immediately before it trashes anything else, anything from 15.0 to 15.4 V I would keep a very close eye on. Nominal is around 14.3 to 14.7 V).
Any chance you can measure the voltage of your battery as the engine is running? With all of these electrical gremlins surfacing at once ... I'm wondering if your voltage regulator on the alternator is malfunctioning and overcharging the car (Anything past 15.5 V and I would change it out immediately before it trashes anything else, anything from 15.0 to 15.4 V I would keep a very close eye on. Nominal is around 14.3 to 14.7 V).
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