2004 Corolla - Will Turn Over But Not Run

[BigRickyD]

Hello all. I am new to the forum and am hoping for some help. I apologize for the long post, but here goes...

I have a 2004 Corolla S with 175k miles. It has been a bit of a lemon with various things gone wrong. I replaced the engine at 148k miles even though I religiously changed the oil. The new engine has developed the same slow oil leak that the old one had, which is rather disconcerting. It only leaks when it is running and the people that replaced the engine (Pep Boys) said they don't know what the problem is. When I came out of the store tonight the engine turned over and then died. After that, it wouldn't turn over. There was no click or anything. I found out that the starter was not getting the switched +12V. The fuses look good and the instrument cluster is lighting up. The radio and headlights are working, so I don't suspect the battery. When I try to start the engine, the battery doesn't drop at all. It is steady at 12.7V. We tried to push start it and it started when I popped the clutch. It would run for 3-5 seconds and then die again. When it was "running" it would not respond to the gas pedal. The RPMS were < 500. The CEL has been on for a long time (3 years?) because I can't find the issue with the 02 sensor and I decided to stop putting time and money into it. I have one of the local part stores check it periodically to make sure no other codes are being reported and, as of 6 weeks ago, there were not. I am not sure what codes are being reported now. I checked the oil and it was almost 2 quarts low. I checked it before a trip last week and it was fine. That was 1500 miles ago, so the leak has gotten worse than the 1.5 quarts/3k miles I have been used to since about 100k miles (which was on the first engine). I know that the clutch switch is getting depressed, but I haven't checked the switch to see if it is working. I don't know if those go bad or not.

EDIT: I forgot one potentially important issue. The A/C compressor died around 130k miles. I disconnected the power so it wouldn't kick in, but left the belt on it. Could that have locked up and started bogging down the engine? I think it is unlikely, but I thought I should include it with the rest of the info.

Does anybody have any ideas what the problem could be with this car now? Could it be the ECU?

 

[kingjames]

I'm no expert, but I would check your fuel pump. That would be my guess. Also get your codes read. They should help you track down what is going on.

As for the leaking, if I was you, I would take it back to pep boys and tell them they need to fix the leak since they put the engine in. Can you tell where the leak is coming from? Clean your engine and see if you can identify where it is leaking from.

 

[BigRickyD]

I was thinking fuel pump as well. But that doesn't explain that lack of switched +12v on the starter or the fact that the battery doesn't drop at all when I try to start the car.

I was suspecting the clutch switch, but that wouldn't explain it dying immediately after a push start.

Could the ignition switch be the culprit?

 

[kingjames]

Ya the no-drain on the battery is certainly interesting. Is your CEL on? If so, get your codes read at a local chain auto store and we'll see if they can lead you in a better direction of knowing what is going on.

 

[BigRickyD]

Well...it is running...for now. Here is a rundown on what I did, followed by another question.

I found out there was no power to the clutch switch. That is fed from the ignition switch. The Haynes manual shows the instrument cluster gets power from the same source that provides +12V to the clutch switch and the cluster had power, so I assumed the supply to that switch was good and pulled the switch. I did not check the power to the switch at that time. I took the switch apart and found carbon deposits on the contacts so I lightly sanded the contacts and used electrical contact cleaner to make everything pretty again. I put the switch back together and plugged it in.

Here is where things get weird..

I tried to start the car without using the cylinder lock. In other words, I plugged in the ignition switch and rotated it to the start position without installing it back in the car. That blew the 30A Main fuse. I replaced the fuse and it didn't blow immediately. Curiosity got the better of me so I repeated the test of trying to start the car without installing the switch back into the cylinder lock. The fuse blew again. I decided to put everything back together and leave it to a professional. After everything was back together, curiosity again took over so I replaced the fuse and the car started right up. I checked that fuse the other night and it was fine. So I am wondering if using the ignition switch without the cylinder lock could blow the fuse. There is a wire (or 2?) coming from the cylinder lock to the wire harness, so I guess it is possible. It is also possible that I blew the fuse playing with it. My working theory is that the carbon deposits in the switch caused the initial failure and I did something to blow the fuse. I am keeping spare fuses and my tools close by if/when that theory leaves me stranded.

Does anyone know if bypassing the cylinder lock can cause a blown fuse?

 

[mega_mini]

Corolla not starting

Hi im a newbie and i have a 2003 Corolla T Sport the car cranks but wont start just turns but wont run can anybody please help me as i am really stuck ???? thank you

 

[Richard Tomlinsen]

Do you have a 'check engine light on'? If so, check the codes. Could be a battery with low voltage. Sometimes lights will still come on, but battery doesn't have the voltage to get the starter to engage. How old is the starter?

I just noticed this is an old thread, but hopefully this can be helpful to someone...