2002 Corolla - Burning Too Much Oil?

#1
'Just bought an '02 Corolla with 76K miles about a month ago. Have noticed the car burns about 1.5 qts of oil within the first 1,200 miles. Is this normal for this vintage car? No leaks or smoke from the exhaust. Car runs fine otherwise. Should I consider going to a heavier oil (5W-30)? Any other suggestions?
 
#2
Use 10w-30 oil, its not normal for it to burn that much oil but then again if you arent the original owner you cant blame yourself you can only deal with it. With the thicker oil it will still burn but at a slower rate.
 

Scott O'Kashan

Super Moderator
#3
A 10W-30 viscosity is no thicker or thinner than a 5W-30 viscosity. They are both SAE 30 oils at hot engine temperatures. A 5W-30 has the oil flowing faster to engine parts that need lubricating than a 10W-30 can.

There are many causes for increased oil consumption, (including the possibility of oil leaks), that should be investigated.
 
#4
Finding the cause of oil consumption isnt going to help the OP because it is irreversible, the only solution is to rebuild the whole engine. He is asking for a way to help it consume less. I correct myself i actually meant use 10w-40 which is thicker and therefore harder to burn through, just as an example drink a cup of water (5w-30) then drink a cup of honey (10w-40) you will see that the cup of honey takes much longer and is tougher to drink due to its thickness. While using this thicker oil make sure to warm the car up when cold since it does take longer for it to circulate throughout your engine.
 
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#5
I'm currently monitoring oil consumption more accurately to get a better baseline for the 10W-30 oil. I noticed that the manufacturer does recommend 5W-30, so I was going to try that at my next oil change (although, from what I read, the 5W-30 kinematic properties aren't much different than those of the 10W-30 oils when the engine is warm). Personally, if the 1.5 qt/1200 miles holds, im OK with that as long as it doesn't get worse over time. My '96 850 Volvo (350+K miles) has been burning oil for a few years now, and all it takes is a quick check of the dipstick every time I gas up. 'Any other thoughts/suggestions?
 
#6
The manufacturer does recommend 5w-30 but remember that it was the car is new which means the engine is not consuming oil. When the engine starts consuming oil the use of 5w-30 goes out the window. At operating temperature 10w-30 and 5w-30 are the same thing so id stay away from both of those and i wouldnt use additives either.
 

Scott O'Kashan

Super Moderator
#7
Finding the cause of oil consumption isnt going to help the OP because it is irreversible, the only solution is to rebuild the whole engine. He is asking for a way to help it consume less. I correct myself i actually meant use 10w-40 which is thicker and therefore harder to burn through, just as an example drink a cup of water (5w-30) then drink a cup of honey (10w-40) you will see that the cup of honey takes much longer and is tougher to drink due to its thickness. While using this thicker oil make sure to warm the car up when cold since it does take longer for it to circulate throughout your engine.
The 2002 Toyota Corolla has a well earned reputation for consuming oil and out of all model years of Corolla's, the 2002 year was the worst one for this problem -

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Toyota/Corolla/

Finding the cause of the oil consumption most certainly will help and is many times reversible.

There are many potential causes of higher than normal oil consumption. Below I shall list a few -

1. Plugged PCV valve/system, increasing pressures inside the crankcase, which can force oil into the PCV system, where it is then sucked into the combustion chambers and burned.

2. The use of petroleum oils can many times cause sludge, carbon and varnish deposits inside the engine, which can cause the piston rings to become gummed-up, stick and not function properly, allowing excessive amounts of oil to get by the rings, up into the combustion chamber and be burned.

3. Petroleum oils have a much higher volatility rate, (burn off easier), than a top performing PAO synthetic oil does and lower performing petroleum oils can burn off/evaporate at a much higher rate than even a better quality petroloem oil will.

4. Higher mileage engines can tend to develop oil leaks, especially when using petroleum oils as this practice allows the engine to run hotter which dries out and cracks all manner of different gaskets with resulting oil leaks.

Using a thicker viscosity than what the engineers who designed the engine recommend will only serve to exacerbate all the above issues and will also reduce fuel economy, increase emissions, increase wear rates, reduce power/throttle response and can cause the engine to run even hotter as the thicker oil flows at a slower rate and doesn't transfer heat as well.
 
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Scott O'Kashan

Super Moderator
#8
I'm currently monitoring oil consumption more accurately to get a better baseline for the 10W-30 oil. I noticed that the manufacturer does recommend 5W-30, so I was going to try that at my next oil change (although, from what I read, the 5W-30 kinematic properties aren't much different than those of the 10W-30 oils when the engine is warm). Personally, if the 1.5 qt/1200 miles holds, im OK with that as long as it doesn't get worse over time. My '96 850 Volvo (350+K miles) has been burning oil for a few years now, and all it takes is a quick check of the dipstick every time I gas up. 'Any other thoughts/suggestions?
What type, (synthetic, semi-synthetic or petroleum), oil is being used, as well as which brand?

Do you have service records with this vehicle that show the oil change intervals?

Have oil leaks been ruled out yet as the cause of this problem?

Has the PCV valve been diagnosed as functioning properly and not gummed-up with petroleum oil sludge?

I suggest removing the oil fill cap and with a bright light look inside the engine and see if there is evidence of sludge and varnish left behind by petroleum oils inside the engine. This is common and can cause many problems.

Is there any black, oily residue inside the tailpipe, or do you notice any blue smoke coming out the tailpipe, particularly at engine start up?
 
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#9
Scott - what is a "plugged PCV valve"? I had a similar problem with my old 850 Volvo, where all that was needed was a new "flame trap" to prevent pressure from building up in the engine. Is this something I can check/repair myself?

P.S.: I use either Pennzoil or Castrol - not sure if they're pteroleum-based.

Thanks,

Bernie
 
#11
PCV valve looked dirty, but still 'rattled'. Tried to get a new one from Advanced Auto, but they sold me a Purolator with wrong threads (*&#%$!!!). Called the dealer, they said they need the P/N (???), as Toyota apparently installed two different types that year. Of course, they're NOT in stock ...
 
#13
Have you looked inside the engine with a strong light to see if there is petroleum oil sludge and varnish in the engine? Petroleum oil sludge can cause oil consumption to increase.
 
#15
Sludge, gum and varnish build up from the use of petroleum oils can cause the piston rings to stick and not function properly, i.e. allow oil to enter the combustion chamber where it is burned and sent out with the exhaust. The cure is to change the oil using a quality engine flush to help remove the sludge, gum and varnish and then switching over to a quality/top shelf synthetic oil like AMSOIL, which can greatly reduce the incidence of sludge.

Have you looked inside the engine for sludge yet?
 
#19
I heard a lot about AMSOIL, but is it worth putting that kid of oil in her if its burning that much???

I saw that link, some peopel had it worse than my situation.
 
#21
WELL, i AM GOI NG TO BE DRIVING THIS CAR MORE AND MORE, SO I WILL BE KEEPING RECORDS OF THIS. iT appears to me that it is about a quart every 800-1000 miles. Rough estimate though.

Is amsoil better than lucas?

Can you buy Amsoil anywhere?

Where is this PCV? I would like to inspect it
 
#22
AMSOIL is not an oil additive. AMSOIL is the pioneering leader in the synthetic oil industry and is known as, "The First in Synthetics", (tm) and has the well earned reputation of the best oil in the world.

You can get AMSOIL products from me. I have Product Distribution Centers all over the U.S. and Canada. PM me for a price quote.

Here is a YouTube video showing how to replace a PVC valve on a 2004 Toyota Corolla -


I hope this helps.
 
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#28
I went and changed the PCV valve. at first it was stuck and looked bad, but the more i shook it around, the valve became unstuck. (still bought a new one and installed it). I tightenened the valve cover

So I will see what happens
 
#31
I fogure, at this rate, is it even worth changing the oil since you have to add a quart every 500 miles. I mean its 5-6 quarts every 3000 miles which is more than the capacity of oil in the engine WTH!!
 
#33
Ok, so even with going part synthetic and pcv valve, etc. I still consume oil.

Here's what I will do (and chime in for asny feedback):

1; Change the valve cover gasket (as I suspect burning oil- not a lot)
2; Do a compression test on the cylinders ( I have the tools, just don't know how to do it)
3; Worst case scenerio, put a cap full of brake fluid in every cylinder in hopes the rings will expand (old trick)
 
#34
You'll still want to change the oil to get rid of sludge at the bottom of the pan, even with burning, not to mention the filter will eventually gum up.

To do a compression test, remove all spark plugs, then do a couple cranks ok each cylinder and write down the numbers (disconnect the ignition coil as well).

Then add a cap full of oil to each cylinder, and repeat the test, writing those numbers down.

If your wet test numbers are higher, then your rings are shot. If the numbers match, then valve guides are to blame.
 
#35
I fogure, at this rate, is it even worth changing the oil since you have to add a quart every 500 miles. I mean its 5-6 quarts every 3000 miles which is more than the capacity of oil in the engine WTH!!
why has this haven't been brought up to toyota on a larger scale
I have done some research on this issue and I have discovered that with the 1998-2002 Toyota Corolla's there is a problem with the 1.8 litre engines that causes high oil consumption. Toyota has addressed the issue with an updated piston design, but having the engine torn down to have new pistons and rings installed is a very expensive proposition.

I was looking at a 2001 Corolla to purchase and went to http://www.CarComplaints.com searching for the 2001 Corolla and that is how I discovered this problem. When I went to test drive this car, I revved the engine to 4,000 + rpm's 4-5 times and then quickly hopped out of the car to look at what was coming out of the tailpipe, which was a large cloud of blue smoke, indicating the engine was burning a lot of oil. Of course, I didn't purchase the car. Rev the engine up and down several times with your own car and look at what is coming out the tailpipe and I think you will discover that same cloud of blue smoke, indicating oil burning.

I have links about this issue, one of them coming right from Toyota, that I will post as soon as I can. In the meantime, Google -> 2001 Corolla, oil burning, and you will find a plethora of information on this notorious problem that 1998 - 2002 Corolla's have. I read reports of people having to add oil to these engines at the rate of 1 quart per 100 miles! It's a serious problem.

Plan on either selling the car or having the engine rebuilt, (thousands of dollars in cost), with Toyota redesigned pistons. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.:(
 
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#36
'Just bought an '02 Corolla with 76K miles about a month ago. Have noticed the car burns about 1.5 qts of oil within the first 1,200 miles. Is this normal for this vintage car? No leaks or smoke from the exhaust. Car runs fine otherwise. Should I consider going to a heavier oil (5W-30)? Any other suggestions?
bdzimmermann - Any updates on the oil consumption issue?

Since you made your post I have done some research on this issue and it apparently affects all 1998-2002 Corolla 1.8 litre engines. The only fix is to have Toyota updated design pistons and rings installed. Very expensive.
 
#39
I didn't notice blue smoke coming from the back

Ok so i did th compression test starting with the cylinders facing thw belts (near them)

1) 145 psi
2) 87 psi
3) 140 psi
4) 70psi (nearest the drivers side

The spark plugs all seemed to have a very white chaulky appearance
I didn't add the oil yet but will

I already suspect bad rings
 
#41
Ok so just did the wet test, same cylinder from belts to driver side:
1) 170
2) 130
3) 170
4) 130

Going by the logic mentioned here, two of my rings seem shot. What do you guys suppose is going on here?

where do I lie?
 
#42
Yeah, rings in #2 and #4 are toast. There is a defect with these engines where the piston rings will wear prematurely and cause excessive oil consumption. Either you'll have to save up for another car, or rebuilt the motor that is in it now. Both options will cost you less in the long run as opposed to continuously adding oil to the engine. Some people have it so bad that they are adding a quart every 200 miles. That gets pretty expensive.
 
#43
The rings don't cause the problem, the pistons combined with the use of lower performing petroleum oils do. Use the same pistons with petroleum oil and the problem will happen again.

I sent you a private message with a possible much less costly solution than rebuilding the engine.

Using Google, doing a keyword search -> Corolla, Burning Oil, I discovered there are many articles about this issue. Apparently the design temperature for the pistons in this engine was 120 degrees Celsius and the actual temperatures reached are 160 degrees Celsius, which causes the petroleum oil to sludge up and carbon to accumulate in the piston oil holes that allow oil to flow to the piston rings. This can cause the piston rings to stick, (allowing high rates of oil burning), and also can block those oil holes, preventing oil from getting to the piston rings and subsequently the piston rings wear very, very quickly, then allowing oil to be able to slip past the piston rings, into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust. Toyota has addressed this issue with an updated piston design with more oil holes in the piston.

The part number for the redesigned pistons is Toyota part # 13101-22142.
 
#44
Ok so just did the wet test, same cylinder from belts to driver side:
1) 170
2) 130
3) 170
4) 130

Going by the logic mentioned here, two of my rings seem shot. What do you guys suppose is going on here?

where do I lie?
To detect a problem with the piston rings, either in wear or gummed up/sticking rings from using petroleum oils combined with hot engine temperatures, (which is the problem with this engine), a dry vs. wet compression test needs to be completed. The different readings between the two will tell the true story.

It might be possible to free up those sticking oil control rings and restore the engines normal oil consumption. I sent you a private message about this. :thumbsup:
 
#49
Thanks for the helpful links.

I did do it that way, so my dry /wet test (leakdown) was successful.

I did assume that cylinder 1 and 3 are shot (the rings/pistons)

I will be looking through the inbox, thanks scott!

Also i pulled codes (engine light) and I got codes P0300 and P0303 cylinder three causing misfire.
 
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