2000 Corolla VE Maintenance

fedecape · May 13, 2013

Hi !

I just wanted to ask a few engine-maintenance questions.

I bought my car 3500 miles ago and I have only changed the oil (transmission, power steering and differential fluids were also refilled).

1) What OIL should I ask for? I'm currently running on Castrol Part Synthetic 5w-30

I live in South Miami, a really hot place.

3) How do I check if the coolant is "fine"? or.. just buy more? Which one?

I added some Chevron Fuel System cleaner the last time I fueled the tank.

4) Any other recommendable product to buy and apply?

5) Tips? Anything that I should check or have checked often ?

130K miles, about 300 miles per tank and seems to be burning about 1QT of oil every 2500 miles.

Thanks!

happy man · May 2, 2014

There is no differential oil because the diff is in the trans unit. You should replace the trans fluid just to be safe since you don't have the record. The coolant can be check there is a tool for it. You don't really need to put synthetic 5-30 since it is not a high performance engine you can save your money just put regular 5-30w oil. I think you did good and keep an eye on the oil level regularly it consumes about 1/2 qt every 1000 miles.

Donabed Kopoian · May 3, 2014

1) Keep using the 5w-30 Synthetic Blend, as I believe that is the recommended oil for the car. Do not use straight dinosaur oil, as the specifications require synthetic blend or better. Your car doesn't have a differential, but a transaxle (Front Engine - Front Wheel Drive platform). By refilled, you mean drained, filter replaced, and filled right (I'm assuming you have an automatic, as manuals do not need the fluid replaced).

3) (Ya skipped 2). There is a tool for this called a hydrometer that you can use to ensure that the coolant is where it needs to be. I use fuel injector cleaner every 15,000 miles with a tank of premium, so that is good.

4) Might not be a bad idea to check the plugs and make sure they are in good shape. I would also replace the upstream O2 sensor, as most people don't replace them until they completely fail, and they can kill your mileage when they are worn out well before they throw a code. Should replace them every 60,000 miles. JUST THE UPSTREAM, not the downstream one.

5) Oil, tire pressure, brake pads, tire tread depth, fluids, the usual. You don't have to do anything crazy. Also, one quart every 2,500 miles is not considered excessive consumption. When you start going through a quart every 1,000, that is considered excessive. Just keep in mind to check your oil regularly, as you will drop a quart below "low" in-between oil changes without filling, which isn't good.

Scott O'Kashan · May 4, 2014

happy man said:

A vehicle doesn't have to be a high performance vehicle in order to enjoy all the money saving benefits of a top performing synthetic oil like AMSOIL synthetic motor oils. Millions of cars all over the world come with their engines factory filled with synthetic oils. Petroleum oils are the expensive choice.

Scott O'Kashan · May 4, 2014

Synthetic blend oils can have as little as 1% synthetic oil in the blend and still be called a, "synthetic blend". If the label on the oil bottle doesn't state the percentage of synthetic in the blend, (I've never seen one that does), buyer beware, as you are purchasing something without knowing what you are getting. It would be like buying a, "gold", ring when in actuality it's only gold plated.

Adding petroleum oil to a top performing synthetic oil does nothing but reduce the performance and protection that a synthetic oils can provide.

fedecape · May 6, 2014

Donabed Kopoian said:

First of all, thanks everybody. It's been a while since I posted but I still appreciate the help :laughing:

Is this the upstream O2 Sensor?
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4209-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCUE/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Toyota%7C76&Model=Corolla%7C1013&Year=2000%7C2000&carId=001&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleType=5[/ame]

What do you think of the price?

And last, is this guy doing what I need to do?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dg_S8fbtUS00

Seems pretty easy

Thank you!

Donabed Kopoian · May 6, 2014

Not sure if that is the upstream for your car. Would need to get the part number from an auto store or from rockauto.com

If that is the right part, it's a good price for Denso (which is OEM)

As far as the YouTube link, it says the video is missing...

Scott O'Kashan · May 6, 2014

NGK, (NTK), makes original equipment oxygen sensors for many vehicle companies. Part numbers and prices can be found at http://www.AdvanceAutoParts.com Plus, via Advance Auto Parts, motorists can get the parts they need immediately and not have to wait days and days for shipping.

porschpow · May 8, 2014

Is there a trick to remove the stubborn upstream O2 sensor? Torch?

Donabed Kopoian · May 8, 2014

Hit it with PB Catalyst (assuming the exhaust is cold) and let it soak in for an hour or so. Then go at it with a good breaker bar (or you can join two combination wrenches together as a cheater extension, I've done that many times).

When you put the new one on, add a thin film of anti-sieze on the threads (be very careful to avoid getting it on the sniffer), so that way, it'll be easier to get out next time around.

Donabed Kopoian · May 8, 2014

Synthetic oil adheres to metal and itself better, which keeps the top end of the motor better lubricated at cold start up over dino oil. You also get better mileage. So yeah, you saved on the oil changes, but now you're burning more fuel than you need to.

Scott O'Kashan · May 8, 2014

Only top performing synthetic oils cling to metal engine parts better than petroleum oils do and also provide a fuel economy increase, perform/protect better in the cold and during hot temperature use. Most of the, "synthetic oils", on the market today down at your typical auto parts store are not really synthetic oils in the traditionally accepted definition, but are merely petroleum oils subjected to more refining. Yes, that makes it a better oil but it doesn't have all the engine protection and money saving benefits of a true Group IV PAO based synthetic oil like industry leading AMSOIL synthetic motor oils, "The First in Synthetics", (tm). :thumbup1:

Scott O'Kashan · May 8, 2014

Keep in mind, Toyota now uses synthetic motor oils right from the factory assembly lines in the engines of all their vehicles and specifies that synthetic oils be used with all future oil changes. There's good reasons for that. As millions and millions of vehicles all over the world are coming with synthetic motor oils right from the factory assembly lines, the days of the old school petroleum motor oils are beginning to slip into history, which is a good thing. Technology progresses.

Yes petroleum oils can protect an engine okay, as long as they are changed much more frequently than top shelf synthetic motor oils like AMSOIL. Those repetitive oil changes add up to a pretty big cost and in many cases much more than AMSOIL synthetics. So if you could get the same or better protection as a petroleum oil but at a lower cost, (along with all the other benefits a top shelf synthetic oil provides), why wouldn't you? :thumbup1:

It's like steel belted radial tires have a much higher price than bias ply tires do, but since they last so much longer, (like top quality synthetic motor oils vs. petroleum oils), they cost much less to use. The other benefits of improved handling, better fuel economy, a structurally stronger tire, etc., are just icing on the cake. So it goes with AMSOIL synthetics vs. petroleum oils.

Below is an independent article documenting all the many benefits of using top quality synthetic motor oils vs. petroleum oils -

"Synthetic Oils: Rx for Long Engine Life" - http://getahelmet.com/jeeps/tech/syntheticoil/

Here is a short video about synthetic oils vs. petroleum oils and why synthetics are the hands down better choice -

Independent fleet test results demonstrating the significant cost savings that can be had with AMSOIL synthetics vs. petroleum oils -

fedecape · May 12, 2014

Donabed Kopoian said:

Here it is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dg_S8fbtU00

and I'll also split it in 3 just in case https://www .youtube.com/ watch?v=dg_S8fbtU00

the video says "oxygen sensor", but it doesn't specify if it's the upstream or downstream.

As for the part, Amazon says "It fits your 2000 Toyota Corolla" ([ame]http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4209-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCUE/[/ame])

But I'm not sure because It doesn't match RockAuto's part number

This is the cheapest one I found there https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3425979&cc=1432903

It's 37 + shipping.

Apparently both of them are "universal", meaning that you could use them as upstream or downstream.

I average about 26MPG, and sounds kinda low for a Rolla.. Does it have to do with this sensor?
New tires, MAF cleaned with proper spray, RedLine S1-1 Fuel Injector used, and new air filter. Shouldn't it be at least 30MPG?

Thank you!

--------

Now, about the oil.

Since last year (when I first posted), the car has been burning a good amount of oil every 1000 miles. Since last month it has gotten worse and I'm now burning about 1 1/2 quarts every 500 miles. I tried Mobil 10W-40 (Full synthetic) because the Walmart lube guy suggested it, but It's not really making any difference. I've now added 1quart of Lucas Oil - Oil stabilizer to see if I can reduce a bit the consumption, but after 200 miles I can clearly see it's not full anymore.

Any tips on that?

Thanks!

fedecape · May 14, 2014

Read somewhere that my PCV valve might be old, so I got this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201084245584#vi-ilComp

I hope it fits my car

Donabed Kopoian · May 14, 2014

Could have picked that up cheaper at an Auto Parts store like O'Reillys.

Scott O'Kashan · May 14, 2014

Advance Auto Parts has PCV valves for your Corolla right in stock. No waiting. Why order from china-bay?

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/c3...&vehicleIdFromReq=41963&vehicleIdSearch=41963

Scott O'Kashan · May 14, 2014

fedecape;10520]Here it is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dg_S8fbtU00

and I'll also split it in 3 just in case https://www .youtube.com/ watch?v=dg_S8fbtU00

the video says "oxygen sensor", but it doesn't specify if it's the upstream or downstream.

As for the part, Amazon says "It fits your 2000 Toyota Corolla" (http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4209-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCUE/)

But I'm not sure because It doesn't match RockAuto's part number

This is the cheapest one I found there https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3425979&cc=1432903

It's 37 + shipping.

Apparently both of them are "universal", meaning that you could use them as upstream or downstream.

Do you really want to use the cheapest auto parts you can find? Remember, we do get what we pay for. I'd hate to see you broken down and stranded somewhere because of a cheap auto part.

Scott O'Kashan · May 14, 2014

When you want competent oil advice and products that work, come to me instead of the guy at Walmart. :thumbup1:

Toyota engineers specify the 5W-30 viscosity for your Corolla.

For a 2002 Corolla, the website http://www.CarComplaints.com lists the most reported complaint for this car as excessive oil consumption. It is the most reported problem for any year Toyota Corolla -

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Toyota/Corolla/2002/engine/

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Toyota/Corolla/2002/engine/engine_uses_excessive_oil.shtml

Unrelated to the oil consumption problem, Toyota had six recalls for the 2002 Corolla -

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Toyota/Corolla/2002/recalls/

So in other words, Toyota had problems with the 2002 1.8 liter engine and short of having the engine rebuilt or replacing it with a rebuilt engine, unfortunately there's not a lot that can be done to rectify the problem.

I strongly recommend against pour in oil additives as they upset the delicate chemical balance of a motor oil and can have unplanned and negative affects. Some new car owners manuals sternly warn against their use stating it can void the engine warranty.

All is not lost however. How many miles were on the car when you bought it and how many miles are on it now? During the time you have owned the car, were you using petroleum oils in the engine? Has this oil consumption problem always been present during the time you've owned the car?

fedecape · May 16, 2014

Scott O'Kashan said:

Well, the part wasn't compatible but it was listed as compatible :thumbdown:. I cancelled the order...

I went with China-Bay because I was looking for the Toyota Genuine part, but yes I think it'll be better to drive there and save some shipping costs.

There are so many. Which one do you recommend? Do I need one with the 90 degree angle?

Scott O'Kashan said:

Well, not really. It's just that I'm a bit frustrated with it. I've been using the expensive Castrol Full Synthetic Oil, OEM spark plugs, premium fuel, good air filters, and now the car is doing this to me

Scott O'Kashan said:

Thanks for your advice. I won't be putting additives anymore.

I bought it with about 126K miles and I'm now @ 143k. I've been using Castrol 5w-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40. Yes, it is present since I bought it, but it wasn't like now.

Once again, Thank you!

Fede

Donabed Kopoian · May 16, 2014

Sounds like the guy you bought it from drove it hard.

When you buy a car with 100k+ miles, the previous owner determines the fate of the car at that point. If he beat on it the entire time and rarely maintained it, the wear and tear is irreversible.

Scott O'Kashan · May 16, 2014

fedecape said:

Look at the PCV valve that is currently installed on your Corolla's engine and match it with the replacement. Here is a video we have in the "Toyota Corolla Maintenance", section that shows how to replace the PVC valve - http://www.corollaforum.com/showthread.php?t=2078

Possibly a Toyota dealers Parts Department will have the correct PCV valve right in stock at a reasonable price. A plugged PCV valve can be contributing to the high oil consumption issue.

The vast majority of, "synthetic oils", that are on the shelves in auto parts stores these days are not really synthetic oils in the traditional sense of the term, which is a vastly superior PAO based Group IV synthetic lubricant constructed molecule by molecule in a laboratory and greatly outperforms conventional petroleum motor oils. This contrasts sharply with the, "synthetic oils", that are known as Group III synthetic oils, which are merely conventional petroleum motor oils that are subjected to more refining, that cost the manufacturer less to produce than real Group IV synthetic oils yet they charge a premium price for their lower performing Group III, "synthetic oil". Imagine that. :thumbdown:

PAO based Group IV synthetic oils tend to have a much greater resistance to high temperature evaporation/burn off than lower performing Group III, "synthetic oils", do as well as many other benefits i.e. lower pour points for easier cold winter engine starts, greater film strength, reduced wear/longer engine life, more power/better throttle response, less sludge build up/an internally cleaner engine, lower emissions, reduced maintenance costs and other benefits too.

One of the things you can do to diagnose the engine to find out why the oil is being used up so quickly and possibly solve the problem, is with a dry vs. wet compression test. This will reveal if the piston rings are worn, which allows the oil to get up into the combustion chamber, burned and sent out the tailpipe.

Have you carefully looked the entire engine over from top to bottom for any oil leaks?

fedecape · May 19, 2014

Scott O'Kashan said:

Look at the PCV valve that is currently installed on your Corolla's engine and match it with the replacement. Here is a video we have in the "Toyota Corolla Maintenance", section that shows how to replace the PVC valve - http://www.corollaforum.com/showthread.php?t=2078

Possibly a Toyota dealers Parts Department will have the correct PCV valve right in stock at a reasonable price. A plugged PCV valve can be contributing to the high oil consumption issue.

The vast majority of, "synthetic oils", that are on the shelves in auto parts stores these days are not really synthetic oils in the traditional sense of the term, which is a vastly superior PAO based Group IV synthetic lubricant constructed molecule by molecule in a laboratory and greatly outperforms conventional petroleum motor oils. This contrasts sharply with the, "synthetic oils", that are known as Group III synthetic oils, which are merely conventional petroleum motor oils that are subjected to more refining, that cost the manufacturer less to produce than real Group IV synthetic oils yet they charge a premium price for their lower performing Group III, "synthetic oil". Imagine that. :thumbdown:

PAO based Group IV synthetic oils tend to have a much greater resistance to high temperature evaporation/burn off than lower performing Group III, "synthetic oils", do as well as many other benefits i.e. lower pour points for easier cold winter engine starts, greater film strength, reduced wear/longer engine life, more power/better throttle response, less sludge build up/an internally cleaner engine, lower emissions, reduced maintenance costs and other benefits too.

One of the things you can do to diagnose the engine to find out why the oil is being used up so quickly and possibly solve the problem, is with a dry vs. wet compression test. This will reveal if the piston rings are worn, which allows the oil to get up into the combustion chamber, burned and sent out the tailpipe.

Have you carefully looked the entire engine over from top to bottom for any oil leaks?

Thanks for your input. I really appreciate it.

Grummet was not necessary because the PCV goes straight into the engine.
The old one was pretty dirty and seemed clogged, but it was still making the "rattle" sound. I installed the new one, and it required a LOT of strength (more than what you can imagine). I guess it's to prevent oil from leaking.

And I think I did not tell you guys before, but I have a P0171. I cleaned it, but popped again. Upstream o2 maybe?

Thank you

fedecape · May 19, 2014

Apparently the new PCV solved the oil consumption issue. I'll Confirm this in a few days.

So, AMSOIL for my next oil change? Which one?

The next thing on my list is the MPG. 26 is low for a Corolla that is mostly used on Highways! Isn't it?

Donabed Kopoian · May 20, 2014

It is a little low. When was the last time the upstream 02 sensor was replaced?

porschpow · May 20, 2014

26 is low? i guess it depends on how much highway you drive I get 30-32 mpg on my commute and 80-90 percent is highway. Even with traffic (rush hour)

Donabed Kopoian · May 20, 2014

I have a 2014 S 6MT, even if I take it to redline on the freeway ramps and travel in the 70 - 75 range, I still get 30 mpg.

If I lay off the throttle and keep to the speed limit, I easily get 34 (the freeway I travel on to work is hilly, so I typically get 38-ish on the way there and 30-ish on the way back).

Granted, the 2ZR is a pretty efficient motor. If he is traveling the speed limit and not punching it (and it doesn't sound like he is), 26 still seems pretty low.

Scott O'Kashan · May 20, 2014

fedecape said:

I'm glad the new PCV valve solved the oil consumption issue.

AMSOIL Signature Series is my best performing oil and will save you the most money in improved fuel economy, reduced maintenance and repair costs, plus will help the engine to live a very long life. :thumbup1:

Below is the link to the product description -

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/find/product/asl?zo=349698

I offer wholesale prices to all Corolla Forum members, which is 30-35% lower than retail prices, and is much less than other synthetic oils that don't perform as well as AMSOIL, "The First in Synthetics". (tm)

Message me for details.

porschpow · May 21, 2014

I have an automatic tranny no overdrive so is 29-33 mpg pretty good?

Donabed Kopoian · May 21, 2014

Yeah. No Overdrive is always murder on mpgs on the freeway

fedecape · May 21, 2014

Wow, so many comments. Thanks everybody
Yes, I'm very gentle with the car. I accelerate very slowly and never beyond the speed limit (65mph). I have AT and I believe no overdrive, but still I was expecting at least 30MPG.

What O2 Upstream do you guys recommend? And from where? I've never changed and I don't even know if that was ever done :/

Once again, thanks!!

Donabed Kopoian · May 22, 2014

O'Reillys carries Bosch O2 sensors. I'm typically not a fan of Bosch but their O2 sensors are good. I change mine out every 60,000 miles and I usually see a bump up in mileage and improved idle quality when I change it.

porschpow · May 22, 2014

I believe the best way to get the 02 sensors off is the night before you change it, saturate it with PB blaster!

And I mean saturate it

Donabed Kopoian · May 22, 2014

PB Blaster is the best.

Scott O'Kashan · May 22, 2014

I have found AMSOIL MP to be superior - http://www.amsoil.com/shop/find/product/amp?zo=349698

It does more jobs too -

AMSOIL Metal Protector (AMP) is a high-performance, easy-to-use spray-on product that lubricates, displaces moisture, protects against corrosion and penetrates to free rusty parts. It does not form gum or sludge.
AMSOIL Metal Protector effectively lubricates moving parts, silencing squeaks without gumming up mechanisms. It displaces moisture from freshwater or saltwater to help prevent corrosion, and it is the product of choice for drying and protecting electrical and ignition systems. Metal Protector penetrates deep through rust and corrosion to restore movement of rusty parts. It is excellent for protecting firearms and other fine componentry, and it helps prevent jamming, especially in cold weather. Metal Protector contains no silicone, and is compatible with plastic, leather, fabric, fishing line and paint.

Cuts through rust & frees frozen components
Helps protect against rust & corrosion, even in salt water
Displaces water
Stops squeaks
Clean
Sprays into hard-to-reach places
Protects electrical equipment
Ideal for firearms & other fine componentry
Lubricates moving parts

Wholesale prices for all Corolla Forum members.

fedecape · May 27, 2014

Ok guys, I'm having some free time so I want to replace the O2 upstream.

What do you guys think of this one?

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4209-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5WCUE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top[/ame]

Scott O'Kashan · May 27, 2014

Have you tried Advance Auto Parts or Autozone?

fedecape · May 28, 2014

Scott O'Kashan said:

Yes. The same one (4209 Denso universal) costs $51 there.

Now I'm wondering what is the difference between that one and this other one [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Denso-234-4205-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000C5SG86/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1401281952&sr=8-3&keywords=o2+sensor+corolla+2000[/ame]

Thank you

porschpow · May 28, 2014

try rockauto.com . They have great prices!!

Scott O'Kashan · May 28, 2014

fedecape said:

Yes, $51 with no shipping charges and an iron clad warranty where if there is a problem with the part you can quickly bring it back to your local store and have it replaced under warranty the same day, as opposed to waiting and waiting for a part to arrive via UPS while your car is out of action. A big inconvenience.

There's also a lot to be said for supporting your own local economy and thus, your own job and your life. :thumbsup:

porschpow · May 28, 2014

Would A bad or poorly performing 02 sensor affect gas mileage, oil consumption, and performance?

Donabed Kopoian · May 28, 2014

Porschpow, an upstream sensor, yes.

I stay away from universals, as you can have issues like the harness not being long enough, etc.

fedecape · Jun 6, 2014

Donabed Kopoian said:

I have a brand new Denso O2 sensor ready to be installed.

What is the location? Do I need to jack up the car?

Thank you

Donabed Kopoian · Jun 7, 2014

Open the hood and look at the back of the firewall, and look at the top of the exhaust just before it goes to the catalytic converter, and that is where the O2 sensor is. You will want an O2 socket, or you'll have to remove the exhaust shield to get to it.

fedecape · Jun 7, 2014

Donabed Kopoian said:

Found it, I didn't need the O2 socket thankfully.

Brand new Denso Sensor installed, but the P0171 is still showing up

(I did reset the faults with the OBDII)

Donabed Kopoian · Jun 7, 2014

I would check for vacuum leaks.

fedecape · Jun 8, 2014

Thank you.

There's one more thing, one little problem that happens when I start it first time in the morning. It stalls/dies. Even if I crank it a little longer, it will stall. Second attempt, starts up perfectly fine.

Ideas?

Once again, Thank you guys

2000 Corolla VE Maintenance

New Member

New Member

6 Speed Master

Super Moderator

Super Moderator

New Member

6 Speed Master

Super Moderator

New Member

6 Speed Master

6 Speed Master

Super Moderator

Super Moderator

New Member

New Member

6 Speed Master

Super Moderator

Super Moderator

Super Moderator

New Member

6 Speed Master

Super Moderator

New Member

New Member

6 Speed Master

New Member

6 Speed Master

Super Moderator

New Member

6 Speed Master

New Member

6 Speed Master

New Member

6 Speed Master

Super Moderator

New Member

Super Moderator

New Member

New Member

Super Moderator

New Member

6 Speed Master

New Member

6 Speed Master

New Member

6 Speed Master

New Member