Buying 2016 corolla s premium. Need price help

#1
Hello

I am new to Toyota and wanted to see if I got a good deal. That is subject to interpretation. What is invoice?

I am purchasing a S Premium 2016.
Options
Wheel Locks
Carpeted Floor Mats& Trunk Mat

Price
+22,020
+454 TDA
+309 Doc fee
-750 Toyota Credit
=$22,033

Then there will be tax, title and registration, but that's state/city based so who cares

Your help is appreciated!
 

Thomas

New Member
#2
Find the True Car price, then subtract $2,000. That is what you should aim for. You have to be a good negotiator to get that though. (True Car used to be good when it came out, but dealers really hated them then, and they rode on that perception as they made deals with dealers to not be so good for the consumer. Don't mention True Car to them, it gives them an false bottom line to negotiate up from.)

I've only bought one car in my life, so I'm not an expert, but I think the deck is stacked against you since it's early in the model's release cycle. That seems a little high for the dealer's documentation fee (mine was $125), I have no idea what "TDA" stands for. And where do you live? Is it in a large metropolitan area where you have several Toyota dealerships to choose from? If so, you can get them to bid against each other. Like I said, you have to be a good negotiator.
 
#3
I will review true car again. I think it's hard to find the true number. I am not above giving them a profit, but I want to know how much.

TDA is the equivelant of MACO/Advertising fee. From my understanding all dealerships charge for it
Doc fee is price capped per state, and most dealers charge the max
I'm in Philadelphia, so we have some options. The idea of driving from dealer to dealer is unappealing. It would be better if I could find out their prices (this is so much easier with BMW).
 

Thomas

New Member
#4
DO NOT VISIT THEM TO GET THEIR PRICES. Look for their Internet Sales or Fleet Sales e-mail or phone number. Each dealership has different prices for the same car. There is the walk-in-the-door price, and there is an Internet price. They know they can get a higher price from people who just walk in rather than doing their homework and shopping around.

Also, create a brand new e-mail address to give to dealerships. They will spam you.

You do a week's worth of homework if you want to save thousands. Start here: https://www.google.com/search?q=dealerships+have+different+prices+for+the+same+car

People who buy cars and agree to prices/financing on impulse are the ones who get hosed the most.

Also, don't tell them you want carpeted mats, chances are they will offer a car that already has that. Say you don't want them, and to subtract the cost of the mats from the overall price because you're not going to pay for something you don't want. If it backfires, you can always get the mats separately.
 
#6
Invoice is what they paid for the car. However that does not include things such as special dealer cash that they get for selling the car, and a certain percent that they are also awarded for selling the car which is also used to cover fees such as advertising, internal stock financing, and so on.

I generally buy a new car every 3 years and I will tell you that it is more important to establish a good relationship than to try and scrounge every single cent possible. That means dealing with a dealer that is known to be reputable instead of those that try to compete on nothing but price. I have a great relationship with dealers and as a result they are very open with me. Unless I am utilizing a Ford X-plan PIN, I generally ask that they sell for $50 over invoice - consumer incentives - 1/2 of the dealer cash that they get which is not advertised to the public.
 
#7
ok so i sell them for a living so i guess you could say i know what i'm talking about here......
"example"
S model Sicker is $21,905
Invoice is &20,699
Holdback is $451
Advertising is $34
Financial reserve is &209
Then we make 1.5% of total invoice (not including holdback, adv, or Fin Res)
that would be $310 in this case
the dealership pretty much rides on that 1.5% (most salespeople don't know about this)
if you buy at 0% or lease the dealer makes another $100
so potentially they could make $2,310 at full sticker
in our region "Cincinnati" its 0% or $750
you should consider 2500 off with rebate a good deal 3k off a great one
give me a vin and i can pull exact cost on any car
 
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#8
Also I dont know what state you are in but only 8 states cap doc fees (ohio where i sell is one of them) and not all dealers charge for TDA ( we do not) its an extra fee that is not necessary why would you pay for them to advertise the car you are buying? if you have a trade be weary of jumping in its easy to take off $5k if im giving you $2,500 less than its worth.I agree with Han Find a GOOD LOCAL DEALER! and develop a relationship with them. if a customer has already bought a car off of me i just lay all of my cards out. because i know i may not make a lot but its not the last one they will buy either.
 
#9
ok so i sell them for a living so i guess you could say i know what i'm talking about here......
"example"
S model Sicker is $21,905
Invoice is &20,699
Holdback is $451
Advertising is $34
Financial reserve is &209
Then we make 1.5% of total invoice (not including holdback, adv, or Fin Res)
that would be $310 in this case
the dealership pretty much rides on that 1.5% (most salespeople don't know about this)
if you buy at 0% or lease the dealer makes another $100
so potentially they could make $2,310 at full sticker
in our region "Cincinnati" its 0% or $750
you should consider 2500 off with rebate a good deal 3k off a great one
give me a vin and i can pull exact cost on any car
So I just paid 21,200 for an s-plus manual trans w/ rubber floor mats throughout. 0% financing for 60 and they let me put 5k down payment on credit card which I thought was awesome because I was able to get the points for using my card. Did I get hosed or is that a reasonable price?
 
#10
I financed my s premium at about 19,500 after 5 k down. Idk if region effects cost I'm sure it does, cause I bought mine from prestige toyota up in Ramsey, Nj. The sticker price was about 26 they drop me down to 24 after some negotiations(military, other toyota ownership discount, and the took off another couple hundred supposedly just cause.) I intended on buying regardless but I'm sure they still made like 2k on me maybe a lot more, but like I said I intended on buying it regardless. 21 is a great in my opinion, I think u may be able to go a Lil lower tho. Then again maybe not as the base model supposedly on the Toyota site is like 17 k 18k something like that. Buy that bad boy and don't look back.
 
#11
^ That's pretty close to what I paid. I'm in Pennsylvania. I put down $10K and financed $13.5K after the $750 dealer discount. I thought I received a fair deal but not a good deal. I should have haggle the price down another grand or more.
 
#14
Still nice tho. I have a 6 inch 3m flat black on the front then 20 in front driver and pass window 5 in the rear windows. I am gonna put up some pics later. I'm a fan of visual "mods" a Lil more than performance mods. I'm gonna add some lights to the rims but maybe after I put my summer set on.
 
#16
Still nice tho. I have a 6 inch 3m flat black on the front then 20 in front driver and pass window 5 in the rear windows. I am gonna put up some pics later. I'm a fan of visual "mods" a Lil more than performance mods. I'm gonna add some lights to the rims but maybe after I put my summer set on.
Yup, I'm the same. The Corolla is an economy car with a small engine so it takes a lot of modifications to get the car faster, so I just focused on the appearance and the handling of it. The first thing I did to the car was debadged the back, then the tint came on after that. For the suspension I have a front strut tower bar and a lower tie bar in the back. I also change all the interior lights to LED.
 
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